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I just got a new Win11 computer, and I'm starting to install the software. I have been using Eagle in Win7 (wait for laughter to die down). I know Eagle's gone in '26. I have been thinking of jumping ship and going with a freeware like KiCad. My hesitation is i have spent HOURS customizing parts in Eagle. There will be a learning curve for Fusion 360, so I guess to make a long question short...
What software do you guys use? 
TIA

In reference to the pedal I recently built:
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=35008.0

Consider this schematic:


NOTE: Q2 is missed labeled. It is really a 2N2222.

This is my problem. I get a noticeable drop in vol when I turn on the effect, and hardly any response at all, either vol or fuzz, unless the guitar is cranked up. But when it is cranked, it sounds great.
Now I've only been doing this stuff a couple years, and so far I've only been "painting by numbers", and am slowly learning what effect each part makes on the sound.
If I had to guess, I would say maybe adjust the value/taper of the 500KA vol pot, but I wouldn't bet money on it.
Any ideas will be helpful, and as always, TIA

It's been a while since I finished a pedal. This is the Chocolate Fuzz, built on our old friend the Fuzz Face. I have modded it to be a bit more Bass friendly.

Outside


Gutshot


And the side no ones gets to see

I'm guessing the big smiling "A" isn't it. I welcome your opinions.
TIA

I'm going to try my hand at a germanium fuzz. I found the ElectrSmash site, and have decided to (kinda) emulate that.
There is just one problem for me, this paragraph:

Only using a 9V battery, no external power supply: The original Fuzz Face using PNP transistors uses "positive ground" that means that the input and output jack are referenced to 9V (instead of ground). You can plug it to your pedalboard or amp without any problems BUT if you use a daisy chain or non-isolated power supply to power it, they will create a short. The best way to avoid conflicts is just to use a 9V battery, the low power consumption of this effect (2.5mA) will make your battery last for very long.

I consider myself only a seasoned newb to this stuff.
I can't visualize/understand the DC itself shorting, if neg is connected to the spot in the schematic that denotes neg, and then pos, to pos. *note* I use plastic dc jacks.
Is he saying the 1/4" guitar patch cords may/will short? i.e. the practice of using a stereo jack on input as a switch? I thought the input/output caps were there to filter dc from the i/o and prevent that.
And if the 1/4 will short, then what difference would the power source  itself make, if the ped was in an audio daisy chain?
Would insulating the jacks from the box have any effect this?

I feel this is a concept I should *fully* understand, and thank you all in advance for any insight.

I modded a FF with a bigger input cap for Bass. I loaned it to a 6 string friend of mine who wanted to check it out. He found he got a hint of feedback if the gain went past 1/2 way.
Here is the schematic:
https://ibb.co/6FJw2fJ
Do you guys think maybe it's transistor bias? I'm still kinda a newbie, so I'm not sure where is start.
TIA

I've been comparing the schematics of the EH Bassballs and the Slurpee. I noticed a 2.2M connected from input to ground. the other end is connected to a circle with the word pin inside it. The other circle with a pin inside on the schematic is connected to ground. Does that imply that both ends of the 2.2m is connected to ground? and the input also. i don't know a lot, yet, but this doesn't make sense to me.

I have a scrap computer I need to off, and see I see a lot of yt vids on this. Has any here did this? is it worth it?
TIA

Like breaking a Bass guitar string, it was a draw changing experience .
The circuit is an Onyehn XR2206 Function Gen Kit
Wow. As I was writing this post to ask how to proceed, the cause hit me like a ton of bricks.
Don't use a pedal wall wart to power other projects
I guess now I need to change the cap, find a different PS, and see if I cooked it .
Before I begin, is there any considerations I need to know about?

I am currently working on a Bazz Fuss w/gain for a friend. He wondered if it could be modded to allow varying degrees of fuzz, like a Fuzz Face. I'm still new to this, so I'm afraid it might be beyond my pay grade. I know it can't be as simple as just adding a pot and cap between to the transistor and ground. First, I couldn't be that lucky, and second, the FF has two trans instead of one like the BF, so where would I connect it.
TIA

Does anyone here have experience with Molex? My pedal designs consist of a main board, and a 3PDT daughter board. I often find that to troubleshoot I need to remove one board from another. I thought Molex would be a solution to avoid de-soldering wires. I want to make my own custom lengths. I've been researching, and the problem I keep running into is how do I know for sure that the end I crimp on my wires will mate with the socket I solder to my boards.
I need 4 connectors, and the socket that gets soldered on the the boards has to be at 90*, for height.
TIA

Ladies and Gentlemen, The latest from Nelson Audio, The Blue Bull'z:





This is my third pedal.  In an effort to make this process "Skyp Proof", I changed the way I make PCB's, and tried a different top coat/ sealant ( thx to jimilee).
At least it sounds better than it looks
I am very confidant that with a little practice, they will look better.
Thanks to all who have helped me along the way.

I didn't know where to start to find my answer, so I started here. TIA.
Consider these pics:
3PDT schemeatic


The board in Eagle. Note the highlighted nets.



I don't understand why A1/A2 and C1/C2 are connected.
I strongly suspect its something I did, as B1/B2 aren't connected.

I welcome any help.

Figured I would start here. I was recently given an old Tektronix 453 scope. I know very little about scopes. I have found some basic info on how to use them in general. Where can I find info on how to use them in pedal building specificity?
Side bar: the first thing I am going to try and do is to id an unknown inductor using an LC circuit and function generator.
TIA

Do they help. Should I try and incorporate them in my designs, and are they ever harmful? I make my boards by isolation routing on an CNC mill, so there is a whole LOT of copper left sitting there .

I'm looking over the schematic and I just can't figure out what the symbols "pin" and "LC" mean as far as connections. I understand VB, VC, IN, OUT. Are all the "pin"s connected? Then I'm lost seeing one of the "pin"s is connected directly to ground, making no sense (to me) for R1.
TIA

As per my previous post, are there any issues with the component placement for this simple LM 386 amp?





Or that matter, any issues at all?
TIA

For those who take schematics and design their own PCB's. What concerns should I have when placing the components. I believe that I should try to keep power away from signal, and to always pay attention to polarity. Beyond that, does placement impact the sound? Should certain parts be placed closer or farther from each other. Maybe I'm over thinking this.

Would there be a problem using an MP3 player plugged into the input of a pedal I'm trouble shooting, as to not have keep plucking a string? Impedance mis-match or something that damage the pedal circuit further?
TIA

I mill my own PCB's on a 3018 CNC. I've been toying with the idea of of cutting odd shaped boards for a little while now. This morning I think I may have solved it. Disclaimer: No curves lines, just straights and angles. One also needs to know some VERY basic gcode commands. And yes, it is a little bit of a PITA, but I feel it is worth it.
I use four different programs to achieve this: Eagle as my PCB design software (gerber files), Flatcam to generate gcode, ncviewer.com (online) to simulate what my mill will cut, and CAMotics to edit  the gcode (this is the snarky bit). One could use other such programs I guess, these are just what I know how to use (mostly).
I'll be brief, not a "full" tutorial, but will answer any questions I can.

In Eagle draw the shape you need with the line tool on the top layer, using a thin line, ~.5 mm. Under the Cam Processor pick Profile. Add the top layer to the Profile's layer list. Unfortunately you can't delete the board shape layer (you'll do that via gcode editing). Under advance setting mirror it. Process job.
In Flatcam open the profile gerber. You'll notice your cutout shape, and a square board shape. Go through the regular process of isolation routing using only one pass. Tool dia, depth, feedrate and spindle speed all set to what you use to cut out boards. Go through all the steps to generate the gcode.
At ncviewer.com open your gcode, and find the lines that cut the inner shape (there will be two) of your custom board, hightlight and copy.
In CAMotics make a short gcode file of just the generic opening and closing lines (I'll post what I use if wanted), paste the lines from the veiwer between them. Save and then open your new gcode file in the web veiwer. Cross your fingers, and if you had all the right lines copied that will be it.
I hope this all wasn't too boring, but if only one other member mills their own boards, and needs to wrap the front edge of their board around the dc jack, then I feel this is worth the trouble