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Hi, I am working on the new Stage Light and am a little confused about the orientation of Q2, the 2n5457. The build doc shows this:
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Not sure what's going on with the "G" labeling on this... seems out of place?

I have a couple of perf layouts I want to try that use trimmers that have the straight, 3-in-line pins like the one pictured below.

The standard 3362Ps that most MB projects use make total sense to me, but these are a mystery. What I don't grok is the "multiturn" aspect. How and why are trimmers like these "multiturn"? If you keep turning them the knob, does the resistance reset or something? Just does not make intuitive sense to me, having not used one before (that I can recall). I know I could just bend the pins on the standard ones to fit, but I sort of want to understand these things too.

I had NO idea how much Mouser has apparently changed in the last few years, and I am now looking at spending a boatload of $$$ to get the ⅛w resistors for a Man O' War Deluxe. I've had spotty luck with Tayda resistors values in the past; Small Bear would probably be over $60 for all the values I need; and the Vishays at Mouser are about the same size as ¼w. Any ideas?

Barring that, will I have to use ¼w and stand them up?

Is it just temporarily out of stock, or is it being discontinued?

I found a vero layout for a swell circuit (http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n273/rousejeremy/swellvero.png) and was wondering if anyone has incorporated something similar into a Wolfshirt to approximate the early 90s Experience pedal from Prescription Electronics.

I've been trying for a couple of days to import the Excel BOM for Aion's Blueshift into Mouser's BOM tool with no luck; I am always getting "Sorry, we could not process your request at this time. Please try again in a few minutes." Is this a typical problem, or is there some trick to it I am unaware of?

Hi all, and happy New Year.

I am considering building an MXR/CAE MC-401 stripboard clone (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/03/mxr-mc-401.html) to use as an onboard buffer/booster in a solid body guitar. There is plenty of room in the control cavity, and I already have a battery case installed.

What I would like to do is use a pot that acts as an on/off switch for the buffer/booster, i.e., when it is "off", the circuit acts as a buffer, and when it is on, it switches to "booster" mode, increasing gain as the pot is turned. I do not really know if this is possible OR what kind of pot to use for such an operation, other than a push/pull pot, which I'd rather not use. Is this doable? Would a reverse taper no-load pot, if available, do this? Thanks.

Title says it all. Has anyone found them to last significantly longer or be more sturdy than the more common makes?

As I have consistently since I built my first pedal in 1999, I made a mistake in my Mouser order for a Zendrive build: I neglected to order a 10kB pot for the voice control.  It does not matter how many times I go over the BOM and the shopping cart; a mistake nearly always occurs, and it is always MY fault.  

I DO have some 5kB pots AND some 25kB pots. Would one of these be appropriate to use in place of the 10kB pot?

Any thoughts? I've used BMPs in the past, but I'd be interested in hearing of any other pedals some of you may have used to similar ends.

If I have a relay bypass board like the Bypass Relay by AMZ or the Finish Line Relay Bypass by 1776 Effects (both of which use soft-touch momentary switches, which I really like), can I use it with the Kingslayer II in buffered bypass mode? If so, how should it be wired?

I just realized that I don't have a 3.3nf cap for C4, but I DO have both 2.7nF and 3.9nF. Will either of these work the same?

I'm working on a couple of stripboard projects that are going to require slightly larger enclosures than normal, and sometimes I find the shape and size range of available enclosures confusing, so I put this list together (with info from PPP) regarding the different varieties of boxes. Not sure if others will find it helpful, since most of us stick to one or two sizes, but I just thought I'd post it. They probably won't line up evenly, but you should get the basic idea. If anyone finds some I've missed (likely  ), let me know and I'll add them.


ENCLOSURE   L      W      H
1590LB      1.99"    1.99"    1.06"
1550Q      2.4"             2.2"             1.2"
1550P      3.15"    2.17"    0.83"
1590A      3.625"    1.5"       1.25"
1090NS      3.64"    1.52"    1.22"
1590G      3.94"      1.97"       0.83"
1590S      4.3"             3.2"             1.7"
1290         4.37"    2.37"    1.07
1590B      4.4"       2.4"       1.2"
1550D      4.5"       2.5"       2.2"
1590BBS      4.6"             3.6"       1.6"
125B         4.625"    2.5"       1.5"
1590BB      4.67"    3.68"    1.1"
1590T      4.7"       3.2"       2.3"
1590NS      4.7"       3.7"       1.18"
4S1590      4.7"       3.7"       1.18"
125BB      4.7"       3.7"       1.4"
1610NS      4.7"       3.7"       1.5"
1690         4.7"       3.7"       2.22"
1590Q      4.7"             4.7"             1.1"
1590N1      4.77"    2.6"       1.39"
1790NS      5.625"    4.625"    1.5625"
1590J         5.71"     3.74"     1.77"
1590XX      5.72"    4.77"    1.39"
1590P1      6"      3.2"             2"
1590DD      7.38"      4.7"       1.3"
1590D      7.38"    4.7"      2.05"
1032L      9.75"    2.6"             2"
1411TU      10"       2.2"       1.6"
1411WU      12"        3"       2.2"
------------------------------------
1590TRPB   4.41"     2.42/3.11"     1.38"
1590TRPC   3.74"    4.79/5.95"      1.3"
1590STPC   5.23"x8 (octagon)       1.38"

I'm working on a fuzz pedal that requires a 1k audio pot for the output level control and they aren't available from Smallbear, my go-to potentiometer source. I can get a 1k linear pot, and I already have a 1k reverse log pot; which one would probably be better for the output?

Instead of that, I know that some tapers can be simulated with pot of different value and a resistor(s). What would be the best way to simulate a 1kA pot? Can the 1K linear be wired to simulate the 1k audio, or do I need to start with a larger value pot?

Thanks.

Plug into your noisiest stompbox and let her rip in tribute.

Hey; I've been out of the effect loop for a few months  but I have an unfinished ABDX that I want to get cracking on soon, and I was wondering if anyone has made daughter boards available to allow use of 4 MN3008s to simulate 2 MN3005s. I didn't find anything by searching, but if anyone knows about some I'd sure appreciate a head's up. Thanks

I received an email from instructables.com featuring this project. I haven't really looked at it yet, and I'm not sure if it would work with enclosures, but just thought I pass it along.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Frankenstein-Laser-Engraver/?ALLSTEPS

I'm getting ready to place my first order with Tayda and plan on getting some of the greenie caps they have, which I haven't used before, and I'm wondering: being all 100v caps, are the larger values (100/220/470uf, etc.) too large to fit onto MBP boards? They don't provide any dimensions that I can find.

So, both are analog delays that now use two similar BBD chips and feature modulation. For those who have built both - specifically, those of you who have built the original Aquaboy with modulation and double delay daughterboards - what distinguishes these two projects from one another in terms of sound, total delay available, and any thing else that seems important?

It's probably right in front of my eyes and I can't see it - wouldn't be the first time  - but is there a link somewhere on the Forum webpages BACK to MadbeanPedals homepage?