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I have an older Aquaboy (red pcb from FSB buy) that worked fine when I built it, when I recently plugged it into my voodoo labs power supply it would not get any delay - the only thing that happened moving any of the knobs was a very slight whine when cranking up one of the pots (I think it was the feedback pot).

I pulled the pedal off the board and plugged it into a one spot, same thing. Tweaking all the trimpots had no effect. I then swapped out the MN3005 with another one and got delay, I then tried a few more chips and they all worked fine.

It dawned on me I had the voodoo labs power supply set for an original Boss DM-3 at 12V. I thought the increased voltage might have caused the failure, but what I have seen in other threads suggest I should be able to run the Aquaboy at 15V, so I am thinking 12V should be fine.

Could the 12V have friednthe chip? If it was not the voltage any suggestions on how to troubleshoot to ensure I don't lose another chip?

Thanks

Posting this for others. After staring more times than I care to admit at the metal inside the LEDs I could not for the life of me figure out which way was round and which was flat. After a little googling I found a good explanation and picture. A portion of the rim of the lense is flat.

After some debug (had the 9v on the battery lug) my pork barrel is working. The pedal sounds nice, but when I compare it to my real CE-2, the Pork Barrel is lacking some "warmth" and does not seem to have as deep of a chorus. I did not put on the deep or wet switches and have the vibe jumpered. Thinking I will add the deep switch to see if that helps. I bought my MN3007 on ebay, would a fake work, but not quite as good as a real one? Any other thoughts/suggestions to get closer to a CE-2?

Thanks

The thread title says it all. Can someone please clarify?

I have some time off coming and want to get several projects completed. I have a dr boogey board I have had for a while, but it looks like the new chunk chunk might have board mounted pots. With the way I wire and a high gab circuit I an easier build would.

Thanks

Well it took me longer than I will admit, ok maybe I will admit it. I probably spent close to 30 hours on this pedal, but it was worth it. A good couple hours were spent scrounging for parts even though I thought I had everything I had to pilfer a BYOC orange kit I had to get the last few items. I was trying to get the wiring to look really neat because I am giving this as a gift. While the wiring pales compared to some of you gents, this is a huge step forward from my usual rat's nests. The pedal is a cupcake going into a green bean and is going to a friend to use with an old vibrochamp. The swirl paint job was done by my wife.

Thanks to everyone who answered questions for me and for the couple folks who sold cupcake boards to me. I am planning to build two more of these - one for another friend and one for me.

The pedal sounds close to my TS9 in one of the two clipping modes, in the other it is much quieter and fuzzy, so I think I need to try some different diodes. I have 914's in the asymetrical spots and 1n270's in the symetrical. Any suggestions?

I am ready to wire up my V2 pork barrel and realized I need some shielded wire. Any suggestions what to use and where to source? I did not see any at smallbear or PPP and struck out at a few local hardware stores.

Thanks

Any issue using a carbon film vs metal film in the cupcake? I see comments about noise with carbon resistors, but I really don't want to place an order other than smallbear and they don't have metal film in 4m7.

I am making a couple green beans for friends and wanted to make them to TS808 or TS9 specs. I think it is as simple as making the changes back to the parts Brian changed - is this correct? The build doc shows the following:

From the build doc:
Changes to the Green Bean schematic from the original Tube Screamer circuit
Removed flip flop bypass circuitry for true bypass operation
Added R1 as a pulldown resistor I was going to leave this one
R3, R13 – 470k changed from 510k
C2, C8 changed from bipolar to film
C3 – 100pF changed from 51pF
R7 – 47k changed from 51k
C10 – 1uF film changed from 10uF tantalum
Q1, Q2 – 2n5088 changed from 2SC1815

Thanks!

I am getting ready to build a couple cupcakes and the build doc says to use 25V caps. All my green film caps are from Futurlec grab bags which don't list the voltage. Is there a way to tell the voltage?

Thanks