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[new ownership]

So, I received my most recent order from a reputable vendor now located in Massachusetts we all know and love. I won't name it here but IYKYK. Apparently the new ownership is now ok in mailing out $16 BBDs and $9CMOS chips in clear non-ESD baggies as my entire order, save a couple of LDRs and transistors?, was shipped like this. In total, it was $120-130 of my $180 order of NOS ICs shipped like this.
As far as the other transistors and such, I'm not stressed on that but the ICs really got me. It was the end of a long and frustrating week and I sent them way to long of an email, which isn't really like me but alas, I did anyway.
I hope this was poor oversight of a new employee that didn't know any better and not a common occurrence moving forward. I'm hesitant to even use some of these chips fearing their premature failure. Some of these are for(at costs) commissions for some friends and for gifts for family. Thankfully, I suppose, it's August and not November and the humidity is still on our side.
I'll update if and when I hear something back and if they offer any resolution. I'm not adding these to my inventory though. First, I'll need to find a couple dozen pink bags. I used my last extras on some Russian stuff from Alexer1 last week. Even then, I'll have to mark them somehow as SBmaybebad or something and only use them as last ditch or for bench testing. I have too much pride to hand if off to a friend to take on your for it to maybe one day randomly lose its ghost.
It appears their storefront is by appointment only now for the next month. Maybe there's some staffing issues or something. I feel like we've all been waiting for them to "get their s**t together for the last year but I can't help but feel that maybe they're just in over their heads, which sucks because gatherings up all these parts from various other places would have tacked up a huge shipping amount.
Also, I'll add that I'm very aware that the pink poly bags are by no means 100% protection. But I have a wrist strap and practice proper grounding when building as well as at work.
Anyway. What would you guys do?
Also, if you think ESD is some false boogieman, I'd recommend this for viewing. It's a little dated in the science but by and far the most amusing ESD education I've ever viewed.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Uk5F3rQNUkU&feature=share9
23-33 minutes, particularly at 28 minutes is required viewing for the class.

I'm building a Music from outer space weird sound generator (an analog 2 voice synth/noise box) for my niece for Xmas. I've acquired an as-is/nonfunctional suitcase record player that I've gutted and will be mounting it into and will have a bit of extra space in it
Hoping to find a delay to house with it. Preferably something with lower parts count and fewer controls. Also, would prefer no off board pots as I have a ton of wiring to wrangle with this thing already. I have stock of plenty of PT2399s waiting to be used. Would prefer to stick to those since FV-1 is more money and I have a lot in this build already, and with the amount of off board wiring, I'd like to avoid BBDs due to noise concerns(and $)
Leaning Degenerator but let me hear your seggestions!
-lower parts count
-simple, limited controls
-PT2399 a plus vs more $ for BBDs and FV-1
-boatd mounted pots
Anyone have a go to for synth/noise?

I feel like there was a madbean dual pt2399 archived board that could do both delay and a pseudo-verb. Maybe I'm think of something else.

Thanks in advance

Ppcb pharmacist build.
With the symmetry of this build, and it's size, that one 47n guy in the middle just gets to me.
It's a gift for my niece, so the visual aspect has a bit more sway than a typical build.
Went and looked at tayda, the beige/white ones are 5% tolerance so gues that's why I order them instead.

I'm assuming, but want confirmation, that the pad spacing for the footswitch and power io is typically 2.54 for madbean and pedalpcb and most other pcb retailers.
Can anyone confirm or deny? Any outliers?
Looking at refining my testing rig but want to be sure before I order.
Thanks

A fuzz for/from the end times. Mostly a stock fuzzly bear build.
I don't share many builds here but I put a lot of time into this one, both cosmetics and errors.
Borked the switch, broke solid core wires, DC jack wouldn't fit, burnt the DC smoothing cap, ya know.
But more importantly, the cosmetics. Everything used was on hand already, except the outie DC jack.
This started as a build for a friend so I wanted it to be special. I haven't mastered tayda yet but wanted something that looked awesome and would hold up.

I settled on the idea of a "found" pedal. As in, found post apocalypse while also sounding like a pending apocalypse.

Started with bare aluminum. All paints used were duplicolor auto paint/primer or industrial grade. Duplicolor matte topcoat. There's even some Mercury Mystique green in there. The added texture is from using ultra fine steel wool as a ""brush". There were multiple coats that were smeared and partially sanded down. No real plan. Just winging it as I went. Probably 7-8 coats between the primer and top clear coats.
The photos really don't do it justice. My phone's camera is so so, basement lighting is worse. A lot of detail missing there and too much glare but you get the idea.
In my frustrations, I didn't clean the board up before boxing. It's also been partially unboxed a few times for repairs mentioned above. In the end times, we don't care about flux.
Have rusky ge diodes in there and will mess around with different transistors with my friend. It's pretty splatty on my 5 string bass but he isn't tuned as low so we'll start here.
Added a trimmer for led but my values are off so there's minimal adjustment.
Should have lowered the CLR on the board and increased the trimmer more.
Aside from being splatty on the low notes, this guy is a buzz saw. Even with Ge diodes, it's pretty damn loud too.  Haven't played with it much off the bench but excited to stack it.
Oh, and the knob protector bar(is there a technical name for these?) Was a pseudo handle off a strange bbd half rack delay I salvaged for parts. Looks to have all been hand made including those "rack handles". I roughed it up a bit more and dripped some matte clear on it for more texture.

Bought $300 of gear in auction from Pam Tillis's retired sound guy.
I picked it up today, carried it to the local Sam Ash as well as a few microphones I'll never use again. Mics were probably worth $300-350.
Anyway, end of the day I now have a road case for my Randall RM 50, a Yamaha spx 990, a GK 210 bass cab and this new beauty in addition to $600 in cash. Not a bad hustle.
I've been eyeballing one of these for a while so did some bartering with the Sam Ash rep.
It has a variable output, 1-20W and blends between 6V6 and EL84 output stages. And the mandatory effects loop.
If I love it, I'll likely unload the RM50. As cool as it is(modular preamps, serial and parallel fx loops), it's just to damn loud for my needs these days.

My latest "I shouldn't check reverb this often" acquisition.
A 2017 Jericho edge baritone(27) pictured next to his inch taller Chapman brother.
It ain't a pretty guitar. Lots of rash and some dings on he a** but I payed squire money for a Duncan loaded neck through bari so she'll work.
Neck and fre board are knick free aside from one tiny ding under the 7th.
Sd sentient nech and a sd-4 with glory box on the bridge. Wasn't crazy about either in the walnut body at first listen.
Cleaned her up, oiled the fretboard several times over(was thirsty), and added some foam the the neck pickup. New set of stringjoy bari mediums on her.
Anyone else here hate direct mount pickups? Damn world music guitars.
I'll eventually fiddle with pickups swaps but wanted to get it to operational first.

On pedalpcb layouts, the fv-1 dev in particular, what does the oval silkscreen indicate?
MlCC, or just ceramic? Can't find a buil doc that states what type cap, or I'm to dense to discern the info.
See upper left and upper right of attached photo.
Thanks.

I noticed Brian, at least in the two builds docs I checked, likes to mouser Mill max 917-43-103-41-005000 which has CeBu contacts. CeBu has not benefit to us(mostly used in areas where magnetism is an issue, like MRIs, etc) and may be detrimental, as CeBu corrodes pretty nasty.
Smallbear carries 917-93-103-41-005000, which are gold contacts. Much better, but $1.69 a pop. Even digikey is $1.51/ea at 25+ qty. Not ideal.
Buuuut.  917-47-103-41-005000 uses gold plated contacts, best I can find(Mill max data sheets are all over the place) and are only $1.03/ea with qty of 25+ at digikey.
I know this isn't a huge issue, but for those that build frequently or even small batches, knocking $2-3 off each pedal cost is a big deal.
Also, if anyone wants to tell me this assessment is incorrect, please do so. Just hoping to help the community out and save a few bucks. At $2 each, I get why some here are 3d printing them, but at $1 each, maybe it will save them some time and effort.
Happy building.

Link:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/917-47-103-41-005000/7364145

Can anyone be kind enough to recommend a solution for me

I have a few pcbs for parts of this, be can't wrap my head around the execution.
Wanting to build a dual drive pedal(muff and brass master, aka a big brass muff master) with the ability to run in series and parallel and while in series, flip the order as well as have a variable mix knob.
Kind of like an ehx switchblade, etc.
I have a few fuzzbog spluffer pcbs, and any iirc.
Anyone done something similar or seen a good resource to do this?
I can figure out how to do one or the other, but not both.
I'd like to build the same circuit in a separate pedal fist, then incorporate it into the dual pedal so any bits on either would be awesome.
And yes, I know it's a lot of fuzz, but I'm down for that.
I have an idea utilizing a 6pdt switch that would toggle between the two modes that might work, but it would be a rats nest and am looking for a more elegant solution. I would also be forced to mount that switch on the side of the pedal, due to size, and have to work everything around it. Don't like that for layout or for reliability reasons.
Thanks

Anyone know a good source for pcbs for 8+ position rotary switches?
Wanting to set up proto jigs to quickly cycle through things like clipping diodes and filter caps.
The best I have found is the sparkfun pcb here
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13099
It's a little cramped if I were to socket it as keeping leads from shorting would be a pain. For soldering up the usual suspects, it works fine.
Was curious if anyone else has found something better or a better method?
I found a couple things at dark glass audio, I think?, But they were all $15+.

Over the last 2 years I've built up and organized a pretty decent inventory. Can grab and mb pcb and build 95% or better without needing to order anything.
Pulled out the snack shack last night(paid, not giveaway ver) pcb and got to work. Came down to the pot and jacks and, AARRRGGGHH!!! 14mm?!?!?
I have tons of 9mm and 16mm as that is what most projects seem to use.
Brain, could you consider limiting projects to just these sizes? Building an inventory of pots is one of the biggest up front costs as far as inventory is concerned.
Or enlighten me as to what the benefit of a 14mm is over a 16mm?
Or, layout with 2 sets of pads?
I don't mean to sound ungrateful or entitled. I'm just impatient and hate, after spending all this time and money getting my sh*t together and inventoried, to had a one kob project sitting on the bench until I can order it's one knob... (I wired a 16mm off board for now for testing, but can't mount).
Yes, I should do better at planning ahead, and I do plan ahead. Just figured I could grab all the jelly beans and slap this together before bed.
Thanks for all you do for the hobby and hearing my rant.