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I had some weird problems with this one. I wired it in non true bypass mode, but the pedal did not turn off, and the kill dry had delay only. I de-soldered  some wires and used my audioprobe but could not find the error
Then I remembered that the PT2399 was bought from Tayda....
Then I swapped the PT2399 and it was all good, and it sounds awesome
Thanks Brian!

The color is green sparkle spray paint with purple sparkle on top, the decal is printed vinyl.





I had some 1uF axial caps I had to use


Also I bought a bunch of Alpha pots from Tayda (ROUND SHAFT PC MOUNT), they are a bit hard to turn and the shaft is a little small, whats up with that?

Here is my EgoDriver.
I had some problems with squealing before I boxed it up, so i shielded the input, and now it's quiet!
One other problem that I was not able to solve is the Led clipping mode. There is not really a difference when the led's are in the sockets or out of the sockets (they light up while playing).
Anyway I boxed it up, here it is.

Hi. I finally got some time to build a pedal again.
I have a question about the clipping mod.
I can hear a difference when I toggle the clipping switch from normal to diode clipping, but when the switch is in diode mode I can't hear the difference from when D3 and D4 are empty and when I put LED's in them. When the leds are in, they light up when playing, but they don't seem to affect the sound.

I have tried 5mm red diffused, 3mm clear blue and 5mm clear green.
I tried some D9E's, they are the only ones that have affected the sound so far in the form of a volume drop.
Is this normal? Is the clipping effect so subtle that I can't hear it`?

I built some Chimaeras with the v.1 boards and added a switchable buffer.
I only had two water slide decals left, and I mannaged to mess up/oversize the first print (the purple box)
Pics:

I started out with the Creamy Dreamer spec, but it could not take the signal of my neck pickup or POG, it just farted out and sounded "muffeled"

I did some tweaks, and now I'm really happy with it.
Here are the subs I did from the Creamy Dreamer spec.

R5, R11, R16 - 100R
R8, R13, R22 - 10K
R23 - 2k7
R18 - 20K trimmer (set to about half way up, MID mod)

C2, C5, C8 - 470pF
C6, C9 - 100n
C10 - 22n (MID mod)

VOL POT - 100kB

It's not a Creamy Dreamer any more, but it can be used in a band

I built the Mudbunny v2012 to Creamy Dreamer spec, no subs exept: R22 2K2, C6 47n, C10 3n9, all pots are 100KB.
When I play and strum hard the sound is muffeled, overloaded, unclear, especially on frets higher than 5 on low E.
I don't know exactly how to describe it, but non of my other muffs does this.
I use Fairchild 2n5088 transistors and have tested with others NOS 549B with same result.
The Transistor voltage with supply voltage of 9,3V is:
Q1
E 0V
B 0,57V
C 4,09V

Q2
E 0V
B 0,57V
C 4,08V

Q3
E 0V
B 0,56V
C 4,02V

Q4
E 0,67
B 1,25
C 4,96

Does anyone know what's wrong, or is it supposed to be like this?

here is a photo of the guts:


I did use the search, but I could not find the same exact problem.

I'm having some problems with self oscillating/squeal in the boost mode.
This happens when volume and gain is at about 12 o'clock and more (only in Boost Mode)
I have matched the transistors and I use 33K for the bias resistors to get about 4.4 Volt at all testpoints.

Have anyone else experienced this?

I tested it outside the box and thought it had to do with all the long wires on the test rig.
I boxed it up and got the same result.

I tested all resistors and caps before I soldered them in. Normal mode works like it should.

EDIT:
I have now desoldered the transistors and bias resistors and soldered in sockets.
I got the j201's from Tayda.

EDIT2:
I got my TweedyBird up and running with J201's from the same Tayda batch and it's working fine.
Can someone with a black '65 clone crank the volme and gain pot in Boost mode and report back ?
I use a Jazzmaster with 1MEG pots btw.

EDIT3: Installed shielded cable from input jack to 3pdt switch and from 3pdt switch to input at board.
Did not help much.

I have never used a breadboard, but now I have to
I'm building the Tweedy Bird that I got from Chi_Boy, http://home.comcast.net/~gprause/PCB/Tweedy_V2.0_Build_Doc.pdf

I tried to transfer this schematic to breadboard:

I have subbed C1 470 uF with 100 uF, is that a problem?

This is how my breadboard looks now.
Can someone please check it and tell me if it's correct?
I know there are some unnecessary jumpers...




I get about 1.5 V on the J201's I have tested. (supply voltage is 9.3V)
To get about 4.6 volts i have to use a 1K2 resistor in R2.

King of Klones
I call it Son Of A King, but as you can see i messed up and called it sun of a king
I did not realize that before I boxed it up.
The hi/low gain is just a ~160k resistor on the gain pot so the pot (250K) becomes 100K


Pastyface / Tonebender Vox MKIII with OC75 transistors and a roadrage
I should have called this MindBender because I had to bend my mind to figure out the positive ground stuff.
It's easy but confusing for a noob like me
I jumpered R10 to get above unity gain, thanks KCTigerChie
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=9564.0

I'm building a Pastyface with Vox Tonebender MKIII specs.
The output with everything om max is below unity.
I have subbed C3 6.4uF with 4.7uf and i use a 500k trimpot.
I hear no difference when turning the trimpot, but when i test the trimpot with a multimeter it changes value from 0 to about 500k
I use OC75 transistors Q1 and Q2 is 70hfe Q3 is 100hfe
I measured every component before soldering it.
Here is a pic of the component side of the PCB.

My father in law was going to clean out some old stuff he had at his office, so he asked me if I would take a look before they threw it all away.
NOS Phillips and Mullard stuff
Lots of transistors Ge Si, tropical fish and Phillips caps, resistors and allot more.
Here's a little preview.

I knew right away that I had to buid a Fuzz Face, Tonebender and Rangemaster

So here is my Mangler

I have had this board for some time now, and finally got some time to build it.
I boxed it before I rocked it as usual and adjusted the trimpots, and all I got was nothing except when i was strumming really hard, like it was really gated.
Then i desoldered it from the box, audioprobed, desoldered some components, checked them and soldered them back in.
then I found out I had measured at the wrong transistor pin  
Then there was METAL


Fast soundclip, recorded with Zoom H4N ,Fender Jaguar CIJ with Classic Player Pickups (Bridge pickup used) Fender Super Champ XD with Jensen P10Q
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/loztboy-1/chunkchunk-diy-pedal[/soundcloud]

Slow Loris
I tried to hand paint and failed
This one sounds like a RAT on speed, when gain is turned up high, it's like it's almost going to burst into flames.
Don't know if that's normal but I like it  


Fat Pants (v2)
Tight fit, no decal or paint this time..


Foxx Tone Machine vero
Painted mostly by my 4 year old son Leo

I finally got my Sunking ready!
I socketed C15 and  R14, just in case I wanted more bass.
Sounds lovely with Jazzmaster into a '59 Bassman.
1n34A germs sounds sweet to me, but I have not tried others yet.

I'm about to build a Violet Rams head mudbunny.
1. I don't have a 25KB pot but I have some spare 100kA pots, how would a 100KA pot work for the MID control? I had to order some parts so I ordered a 25KB pot as well

2. How is the Violet Rams head compared to the other versions gain wise?

3. Could someone translate this to the mudbunny version?
Noise gate mod: This mod will quieten the Muff while not playing, thus a noise gate. To do this, add a 100k trimpot (wired as a variable resistor) parallel to the 100k to ground of the second gain stage (R14). The trimpot can be adjusted to taste to get the max noise gate effect.

Stock according to BOM.

The decal is white inkjet sticker/label paper with transparent sticker labelpaper on top.
No need for clear coat (Might not be as durable but -10 degrees celsius is not optimal for spray painting)

I BIASed my Dirtbag Deluxe yesterday.
When audioprobing pin 3 on IC4 and IC5, IC4 gives me half the delay time of what I get from IC5.
Is this normal?

I get an overall delaytime of 510ms which is good I think.

 
Any tips and tricks on BIASing the Dirtbag is welcome

I finally got some real MN3005's and got my dirtbag together.
It worked without any problems, I even boxed it before I rocked it 



Air bubbles sux

The two closest to 100kb pots I have is 106,8K and 98,5K
which is better to use for the delay pot?

When looking at the finished pedal is chorus on, with the switch flipped up or down?

[UPROAR]

UPROAR

Stock according too BOM except the OP-AMPS

I did not have any JRC4580 so I used two RC4558P
What difference will the JRC4580 do?
Should both op-amps be the same or can I mix?
I have some op-amps, could I use some of them? mix them?
Here's what I got
3   JRC4559D
1   JRC4558D
2   TL072CP
1   TL070CP
1   LM308N
1   RC4559P
1   OPA2134PA


LAVACHE

I used BAT41 diodes and a 2N3565 transistor.
Sweet sounding pedal!