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Topics - druz15

#1
General Questions / 1n5238 replacement
September 07, 2011, 08:28:21 PM
building a couple of pedals for my band, basically a hotcake and prunes n' custard in one box, and I can't find any replacements for 1n5238 Zener Diodes, which I need one of for each hotcake circuit.
It's a 8.7V o.5W Zener, would it be okay using the 8.2V Zener on Tayda, or would the extra 1/2W of power change the circuit too much?
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-183/1N-1N4738-1W-4738/Detail

Cheers


EDIT:
Okay nevermind just found some on Ebay for super cheap, now I have 50 of them :D
Out of curiosity would the Tayda one's have been alright?
#2
General Questions / clear decals from smallbear
August 16, 2011, 10:10:08 PM
so I got some of the clear inkjet decals from smallbear, thinking you could just print on them, peel off the backing and stick the decal/logo/whatever on the pedal but when I got to peeling off the backing it leaves some fuzzy papery crap behind, and now I see on smallbear that you have to
"Print, spray with Krylon, soak off your decal and slide on"
what the hell is krylon and how am I supposed to use these decals?
this is the item I'm talking about
Http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=55
I figured some water could 'soak' the backing away but when I tried on a test print it made most of the ink run and flake away

any help would be greatly appreciated
#3
General Questions / component values
August 07, 2011, 04:22:31 AM
there are several component values I can't get from effectsconnection and don't want to have to make another online order with someone else (already dropped $100 at smallbear for enclosures) so in the chance that I can't get them at the local electronics store would these replacement values be ok?
620k instead of 680k (could always wire in a 47k series to bring it closer)
220pf as opposed to 200pf
3n3 instead of 3n
39n instead of 33n
56n instead of 50n

also can't find anything close to 2.2uf or 220uf either
cheers in advance
#4
Build Reports / Mudbunny with mods
August 03, 2011, 04:47:58 AM
got it all boxed up and working sweet, because of the pre-drilled layout was pretty tricky to fit everything in even though the enclosure is big, if the jacks and LED holes were slightly lower would have been so much easier but oh well. Will take some pictures soon and get them up.
Mudbunny built to Green Russian Specs, with a switch to change the tonestack between stock and Rams Head settings, a very nice but subtle change, Russian mode is a tad brighter and less scoopy, Rams Head darker and scoopier (obviously) and also a switch to bypass the tone section altogether (รก la BMP with Tone Wicker) which gives a big boost and a huge open sound. This thing sounds great through my handwired 1987x Plexi with a telecaster, way better than the muddy sound I got out of the Current USA Big Muff.
#5
Tech Help - Projects Page / mudbunny questions
July 13, 2011, 05:05:35 AM
Hi am building a mudbunny and have a few questions while I'm waiting for the PCB
The partlist recommends film capacitors for most of the caps in this build, all I could get from the local supply store was green caps like this
but I figured they would be okay didn't have any of the plastic rectangular film ones I see in most Big Muff builds.

Also am putting in a tone bypass switch (like the tone wicker on the new big muffs)
and was also wanting to be able to switch between green russian and triangle and possibly rams head tonestack specs. Since the only differences in the tone stack are two resistor values, could I just use a switch with two sets of 3 terminals to switch between the 3 different modes (russian, tri & rams head)
What's that like a DP3T? Sorry for noobness, I'm sure there's a simpler way than how I'm describing it.