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Maybe I'm dense.  (Probably am) but is the power supply for the rustbucket a negative or positive center power supply?  Also what have you guys been using since Small Bear doesn't seem to carry the dunlop one anymore.  Also just for clarification it is an AC/DC supply and not AC/AC right?  Thanks.

So i'm building a Mascis inspired muff based. Using a v6 Ram's Head vero as a baseline.  In the Mascis version there is used a more than a few 1uF caps.  On the vero they are called out as box caps, but in the muff schematics I've found on kitrae's site it shows them to be electros.  So question is what effect will electros have on the sound vs the box caps?  If any?  I'm thinking not much but I have seen many people it's not good to use electros in the signal path, so I'm wondering why.  Ultimately I am out of 1uF box caps but was hoping I could use electros to no ill effect.  Or should I maybe use tants instead? 

I'm jonesing for a heavy gain pedal.  I have lots of OD, Muff, and Fuzz on hand.  But I want, I guess, a distortion flavor.  I would like a 1590B size or maybe even 125B, due to my current pedal board.  Currently thinking about either building a Zvex "Box of Metal" or a Mad Professor "Stone Grey".  Not looking for a Marshall Plexi amp-pedal thing so anything that's based on that, I'm not real interested in.  Any others I should consider?

These may be interesting 
http://createdigitalmusic.com/2013/10/leaked-moog-minifooger-stompboxes-139-199-uninformed-analysis/

So I have need of a 25k-B pot.  I have quite a few 50k-Bs laying around so I figured...Is it possible to just put a 25k resistor on the 50k pot legs and have a virtual 25k-B?  And if so, what legs do I use, 1 & 3?  I assume this wouldn't work with an "A" to "B" designation.  I know this has been discussed probably before but I didn't see anything.

So is it possible to get the SPST 6 lug toggle switch I have on hand to work on the sharkfin for switching between the SH and the filter sections?  On the build document it shows a 3pdt stomp switch, but i'd really like to use a toggle I already have.

I know when I did the tonepad version of the FSH1 I used the 6-lug toggle to switch between the effects.  So not sure if this is possible on the sharkfin.

What might some alternatives to the lm741 be?  Don't have any here at the moment and was hoping I might have a surrogate.

I am a hot pepper freak and just got a healthy batch off my plants today- just perfect for heading into the Labor Day weekend.

What's shown:
Serano, Tabasco, Trinidad Scorpion, Ghost, Habanero, Cayenne, a garden salsa, and a couple bells for balance.  Salsa time!

So I was thinking about my Tonepad FSH1 and my nearly complete sharkfin and I got to wondering, would it be possible to design a Sample/Hold only pedal?  All designs I have seen are variations of the FSH and as a result combine the 2 effects.  I really like the sample/hold effect but the filter portion is done so well with many other pedals.  I thought it would be cool to squeeze it into a 1590B or even a wah shell such that the wah pot would control speed.  Is this a wasted thought? Could it be done?  I did see that the Music from Outer Space website has a Sample/hold board but this appears to be an add-on to a synth. http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/index.php?MAINTAB=SYNTHDIY&PROJARG=MICROSAMPLEANDHOLD/MICROSAMPLEANDHOLD.html&VPW=1385&VPH=535

So I really want to doodle up a pedal with multi-colored fine tip sharpies.  What would be the best method to preserve it?  Is there a particular clear coat that is recommended?

Whenever I am soldering a pcb and populating it with components I feel as though I am building a small metropolitan city. 

That is all, just a random thought as I solder on a Saturday morning.

Maybe I am doing something wrong but given my repetitive nature, repetitive nature I am inclined to think I'm doing something wrong. I'll go through the process of print decal, clear coat decal, apply decal and it will work perfectly.  Next time, same process and the decal won't come off the backing right, will tear, will get bubbly, or a variety of other reasons.  I hate the process!  Is there a better way!  I like that a well applied decal gives, but the screw ups are getting pricey. 

Sorry more of a rant than anything.  Maybe if I could just get the decals off the backing more consistently I'd be set.  Is there an ideal water temp, clear coat, or other I should consider?

Was thinking it would be cool to incorporate a VU meter in a future build.  I guess my questions are:

1) Could it even work? maybe as a LFO sort of visual feedback, clipping indicator, or a signal level meter.
2) Are there any small enough to fit on a 1590BB at least?

Having successfully built the tonepad fsh1.  I am up for building the sharkfin.  One thing I had heartburn over was the noise transformer for the SH side.  So I'm wondering how you sorted it out, Brian?  Or anyone that's had some experience here.  Would there be a benefit to rigging some cv type of input here? Or am I not understanding that concept?

Finally after struggling through LFO issues I have a completed Harbinger.  I love this thing!!  Sounds fantastic with Zeropoint for clean stuff and pretty tits with the PepperSpray And Mangler.  I can't stop playing it   The light shield is a 3d printed sphere, painted silver on the inside and really rough eyeball painting by me.  The enclosure was done with a purple alcohol ink and cleared with ModPodge Hard Coat.  I really like using the alcohol inks and will be doing more in the future.  As far as the build I followed all the build docs and didn't vary with any components.  Couldn't be happier.  Kudos Brian on a wonderful board!

Pics might not be the clearest, my ipod has a really low resolution.
Guts:



Exterior:



And an Audio Demo(more just dinking around than a real demo, and yes I play the obligatory Trower so be warned
Stats: Fernandes Vertigo w/P90s, Fender Champ 600, KingSlayer on all time, Zeropoint SDX for Delayed parts, PepperSpray on the Fuzz parts.
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/domesticatedanimals/madbean-harbinger-one-demo[/soundcloud]

So I thought I had my LFO issues sorted, but...  It sounds absolutely perfect - except whenever I adjust the speed knob it stops uni-vibing and I have to readjust the trim pots to get it back.  I'm losing my mind over this.  I checked all my solder joints and re-checked the wiring to the speed pot and all looks good.

For reference I am using the 9v version with power filtering.

Testing my Harbinger build and it fires up but the rate led is not pulsing, Regardless how I set the speed.  Turn the trimmers i hear some frequency change.  When I unclip the led I hear a brief pulse.  Also it appears that the lamp is a little low.  I am using the filter pcb with 9v one spot. And followed the directions for such.

Just finished up my ZPSDX after a few minor hiccups... DC jack, stupid wiring mistakes, and decal issues.  Pretty happy with the graphics mostly.  I knew it had to have "Time And Relative Dimension in Space" references.    The main big logo reads ZeroPoint SDX in Gallifreyan.  Well supposedly anyhow.

The sound is very, very nice.  I prefer the analog and deep sections most.  Very musical and inspiring and I really love the ghost feature. The modulation is very nice as well, especially the chorus. The path is one of those settings if I were doing again I probably would have left it off.   It's very minor and I can't see using in any other position than to the right.  The tape and shimmer settings are ok, but I need to play with them a bit more to tell how I really feel about them. 

The slam function is not what I was expecting.  I was hoping for a more gentle ramp up to the chaos but as it is it does really "slam"  the effect.  Is there a way to control the onset and ramp it more?

I could see this quickly becoming my go to delay for most things.   Most Excellent design, Brian!

So I bought this
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1216

Got my ZPDX all wired up and running through the unboxed verification.  I can get get the normal style dc jacks to work fine and power the pedal but for some reason the smallbear jacks don't seem to work.  What am I missing?  I have tried every possible iteration of pins to power and ground and they just don't work?  How are they supposed to be wired??

So I am working on finishing up my ZPSDX and am trying to figure out the placement for the text descriptions for the 4 different modes.  How are you guys doing this?  Is there a specific angle increment the switches are keyed to?  Or are you guys just trial and error'ing it.