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Hi guys,
I'm planning my SKII build and was wondering if there are switches that would fit on the PCB; I'd like to have all the options coupled with a clean exterior. Maybe there are some mini slide switches that I don't know of?
Thanks
Andre

Finally, it's alive!

I ran into several problems with this one, like a DOA MN3008, premature oscillation (had to do it ) and excessive clock noise, but now everything's fine (thanks to Scruffie).

This ABDX started out with MN3008 BBD's but I wasn't really happy with the limited delay time, so I took the plunge and ordered a couple of MN3005's from Funkward-Tech on eBay. Well, they showed up today after four weeks of waiting, and they are the real deal (The BBD gods must have heard my prayers).







The repeats sound great and it has more delay time on tap than my Multiplex Jr., more than I'll ever need. The enclosure is a stock powdercoated Hammond 1590BB, and it was a challenge to fit it all in there; I found a place for the Road Rage near the output jack and the relay PCB had to sit on top of the switch, so it isn't as tidy as I would have preferred, but hey, it works and I like it

The relay board is really nice, too, and I'm going to order more and upgrade some of my other pedals. Overall, a great pedal, and my first useable analog Delay. I have an MN3205 Dirtbag with all the mods that has virtually no headroom, but I LOVE the sound of it with the guitar volume rolled down. Now I can't wait for the new Dirtbag PCB to try the MN3005's and put the 3008's in here again; I think that'll cover all my needs for slapback and longer modulated delays.

So I populated my ABDX with MN3008's running at 15V with a Road Rage. IC3 is normal voltage- and signal wise, but I'm getting 14V at pins 3 and 4 of IC4. The cancel trimmer seems to do nothing, but i checked it out of the circuit and it works fine. Something up there around R28 - R30 seems suspicious, but I already redid the solder joints and checked for bridges. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
Andre

Hey all,

I'm in the process of building a 3 band parametric EQ with a buffered boost in one enclosure (it's supposed to be kind of a Furman PQ3-workalike to boost my 1W JCM800 for convincing RATT tones at apartment-friendly volumes ) , and I can't quite get my head around how to wire this thing up. I want the boost to be buffered with the eq switchable as an add-on-circuit. I know how to do this with true bypass (http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Addon_after_tb.png) but I'm completely lost here. Is this possible at all with a 3pdt?

On another note, can any of you recommend a clean 1 knob boost for this application? I've built an AMZ boost, but it gets too gritty when pushing my amp...

Thanks in advance,
Andre

Finished these two builds last week. Tagboard and ptp were firsts for me, but both were really easy to work with and I really like the results.

Having tried every Tonebender variant and similar circuits over the last few years, I've always had a soft spot for the MKI. The incredibly aggressive attack, fat tone and range of the attack knob with the possibility to dial in gated as well as long-sustaining sounds are just perfect. Now, since this is my favorite fuzz I decided it had to be a replica and got the excellent board kit and enclosure from Brook at PigeonFX.




For the transistors I used an OC75 in Q1 and AC125 with a lot of leakage in Q2 (over 1000ua) and Q3 (about 400ua). I had all OC75's in there first, but the AC125 in Q2 really opened up the range on the attack knob and allows for gating at the end of the dial. This thing sounds especially great with humbuckers, and with the WAH in front - instant Mick Ronson  The rest of the circuit is stock except for the Q1 bias resistor.



The next one is a stock Clyde McCoy on Tagboard (layout from Turretboard.org) with an Eleca Halo inductor, BC109B transistors and a 200K Icar pot. The enclosure is from a chinese VOX V847A and I had to file down the mounting screw bodies to make it all fit. Sounds great.

I can't get enough of these circuits, so this is the first pedal in my attempt to build replicas of the whole Tone Bender timeline. The enclosures will be 1590P1 (except the MKI, hopefully), just because the original sand cast boxes are either unobtanium or ridiculously expensive 



I'm actually really surprised by how good this one sounds; as close at it is to a Fuzz Face, it does sound a lot like a low Gain MKII, just with better cleanup that ranges from a slight overdrive to a godd classic rock crunch or full-on fuzz. Very versatile and lots of usable sounds.



AC128 for q1 and OC75 in q2, both around 100uA of leakage and gains of 70 and 100, respectively. There is a pull-down cap on the input and a resistor from q1 base to ground to stabilize the circuit a bit, like they do in the new MK1.5 reissues.



Good sounding fuzz overall that also sounds great into an already dirty amp.

First off I have to say that I've been trying to build a MKI for well over a year, and I finally came across the right transistors! This one is my third build in this style, and finally one worth presenting

As you can see, I tried to pack as much mojo into it as I could : large pitch stripboard, carbon comps, axial caps, shielded wire and OC75's. Of course it took forever till I found a set that biased up fine in this circuit, but it sure was worth the time and effort! Oh, and I love these large enclosures! Working with shielded wire and top mounted jacks is a breeze, lots of room and much easier to lay out compared to smaller boxes.

This was my first try at using spray paints, and I think it came out pretty well; the metal flake effect is really vibrant.

By far my favorite fuzz, sounds great with single coils and humbuckers alike (too mushy with high output humbuckers with the volume pot full up though, but behaves nicely when turned down a notch) and lots of output. It has that aggressive, in your face MKI base-tone, but even meaner and grittier with a little less saturation.







Edit: I hate photobucket, nothing shows up like I edited it, sorry for the size and the color

Hi guys, first post here

I've built a lot of pedals with Brians excellent fabbed pcbs, and the collosalus is the first one giving me problems...
Well, I put it together today and everything went smoothly until I hooked it up to my testing rig. There was a loud, constant hum with no guitar signal coming through and the regulator got really hot until after about 30 seconds when everything suddenly went silent... Turns out I have fried a 4558 (ic2) which I had put in backwards so now after replacing the IC, there is an audible sweep that sounds about right but it is accompanied by an annoying oscillation on the bottom of the sweep that can't be dialed out with the trimpots. Also, the clock trimpot behaves rather strangely as I cannot seem to find a position where the sweep is somewhat symmetric until the very end of the dial, but even them it is still not enough.
After double checking all the component values, the big question is: what else could have been damaged by reversing IC2?

Edit: btw I used 1n5817 for d4 and d5 as well as 100uf for c26 as per the doc, and 47pf for c22