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[TL062cp]

Hi, I've got 3 of each type of MN3007 and MN3101 that are all from different but trusted sources. the mn3101's i have tested in a delay and work well. the MN3007's are known to work from a past chorus build. I cannot for the life of me work out whats going on, could someone please cast an eye over my board and check the voltages I'm getting? thanks in advance.







Voltages are as follows:

TL062cp
1=8.58v
2=0.3mv
3=8.57v
4=0.4mv
5=0.3mv
6=6.25v
7=8.58v
8=9.25v

JRC4558
1=4.45v
2=4.46v
3=4.45v
5=4.46v
6=4.45v
7=4.45v
8=9.25v

MN3101:
1=9.15
2=4.66
3=0.4mv
4=4.71v
5=315mv
6=8.15v
7=2.5v
8=0.619

MN3007
1=9.16v
2=4.72
3=3.76
4=0.62v
5=0.4mv
6=4.68v
7=3.74v
8=3.74v

Hopefully this is enough for a kind hearted individual to help me fix this bugger!!

Hi, I hate having to ask for help but....... I'm stuck.
I've spent the day building an aquaboy dx using:

2x tested mn3005 (tested in a dod fx90)
1x tested sa570 compander
1x mn3101 also tested

I've tried everything I can think of, including:

reflowed all joints
Checked all resistors
Checked all caps
Checked polarity/ orientations

The good:

Bypass is clear
Dry signal is good
I get clock noise when I adjust the clock trimmer (9v on pin 1)
The vactrol and lfo portion is working- rate and depth knobs work
The mix knob works
The depth knob adjusts the freq of the clock noise heard

The bad:

No matter what I do there is no delay at all.


I had d3 installed initially- cut out now- mn3101 retested and still works
Running at 9v and see 9v at the pin 1 of each mn3005.

What else can I do? Any suggestions?

Brian, i see you like your cascading fet overdrives. is there any scope to produce a trainwreck amp in a pedal?

Any chance you could offer something like this Brian. essentially it'd be great if you could offer a board that could act as a relay based switching looper for use with momentary switches. The idea i have is the board would be modular so that the builder could add as many as they want into a strip 1-8 etc. There could be a built in buffer on the board that was switchable via toggles or a flat response clean boost to give low volume pedals (vintage chorus/fuzz etc) some oomph after the loop. When the boards are added to the enclosure/strip itd be nice if there was an ability to use the same sort of centre conductor found in good quality guitar cables to hook the boards together in the looper, i.e. a bigger hole in the board for better internal wiring. essentially this would mean that the looper wouldn't add or take anything away form a straight through cable to amp setup becoming almost invisible/ correcting the errors of long cable runs?

I suppose essentially what I'm trying to ask is, can you offer this sort of thing so that as diy enthusiasts we could build our own transparent highly efficient loopers that when disengaged make the effects loops invisible to the amp.

ANyone know how i can increase the volume on my lavache build? its been built with a 2n5088 (all i had) and i find the volume to be barely above unity at 3 oclock on the volume pot. ive checked the pot values and all seems good, is it a designed in low volume or am i likely to have made an error. Despite this it does sound amazing!

Im having the same problems as others here, red leds light up in all three settings. No discernible difference in tone between the 3 switch settings (on/off/on) .
I have tried the following:

Reflowed all solder joints
checked resistor values
Checked capacitor values
Checked diode protection orientation
Swapped ICS
Removed the switch, removed all diodes except the red ones.
Removed the red ones and left everything else in.
removed the PD resistor


In all but 1 case the clipping does not change. When i remove the red leds the volume jumps as i appear to get opamp distortion.

Has anyone seen similar things and if so do you have a solution

Hi sorry my first post is a help thread but hey i post a lot on BYOC and this is my first time here so hello everyone.

Problem is as follows:

Bypass signal good. Led lights on switch engagement. those are the positives.

here is the problem: i cannot get any effected signal to come through, its entirely quiet as if i have a short somewhere.

I have tried the following.

Checked wiring off board, was all good (now cut for checking and will redo come boxing up time)
checked resistor values
checked capacitor values,
checked polarity on caps,
checked 2n 5088 transistors are all fitted in the right orientation and all are 2n5088
checked diode direction.
checked for solder bridges and shorts using magnifying glass and shining a torch behind and on top of board.
changed mn3101 just in case.,
changed jrc4558 just in case.
changed power supply,
tried new battery

I am now stuck and seek help please. FYI the MN3007 was bought from banzaieffects, a reputable place as far as i am concerned. but i have another in the post just in case it turns out to be bad. Here are the pics of the board:











thanks in advance for your help, all the best adrian