1
Open Discussion / For bela1961
« on: May 08, 2018, 04:54:13 AM »
Hey man, I'm trying to send a message about some build docs but your inbox is full. Clear out some messages and send me a PM please. Thanks! 
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Pages: [1]
2
General Questions / Afterlife vs 4:1
« on: January 22, 2018, 08:57:02 PM »
I'm interested in building one of these two compressors but am undecided on which one. Can any of you offer some insight on the pros and cons of the clean blend option of the 4:1? Thanks!
3
Open Discussion / Whipple Gold Standard Halo Inductor
« on: November 30, 2017, 09:40:50 PM »
I know we all have tried and liked the original Whipple inductor, but recently I came across this new version on ebay and couldn't help but inquire about it. The Whipple Gold Standard, according to Mr. Whipple himself, "is made to even tighter tolerances and is tone tested to meet the requirements of the Gold Standard. It's the best sounding inductor."
Has anyone else seen these, or better yet, tried one? For $50, I kinda want a better explanation than that.
I'm not sure I could ever justify the cost of one but I tend to obsess over wahs so I can't say never...
Has anyone else seen these, or better yet, tried one? For $50, I kinda want a better explanation than that.
I'm not sure I could ever justify the cost of one but I tend to obsess over wahs so I can't say never...
4
General Questions / Katana Boost Volume Pot Question
« on: August 12, 2017, 09:41:55 AM »
Hey everyone, I've searched but haven't found an answer so Im asking for a little help.
On the Katana boost, the stock volume pot is 250kB. I've seen it suggested that an audio taper is better. I don't have a 250kA pot but I do have a 100kA pot. Can anyone tell me what difference it would make to use a 100k volume pot vs 250k?
I'm working on a perf layout for the Katana with adjustable gain and switchable boost caps. I'll share it when I finish.
Thanks in advance for any help.
On the Katana boost, the stock volume pot is 250kB. I've seen it suggested that an audio taper is better. I don't have a 250kA pot but I do have a 100kA pot. Can anyone tell me what difference it would make to use a 100k volume pot vs 250k?
I'm working on a perf layout for the Katana with adjustable gain and switchable boost caps. I'll share it when I finish.
Thanks in advance for any help.
5
Open Discussion / Shout out to Felix (m-Kresol)
« on: February 24, 2015, 01:18:33 PM »
Hey everyone, I just wanted to give a public shout out to Felix for his generosity in helping me. I needed (well, wanted 
) a part from a supplier that would not deliver to the US and eventually contacted Felix to help since he lives in a country they would ship to. We hadn't ever spoken before but thanks to the community/family-like atmosphere of the forum he graciously accepted my cry for help.
I doubt he wants public recognition as he tried to decline any compensation for his efforts, but I think it's important to give a boost to the community and show appreciation for the people here. It's cool to be able to connect with people all over the word because of this forum.
So...thank you Felix!
) a part from a supplier that would not deliver to the US and eventually contacted Felix to help since he lives in a country they would ship to. We hadn't ever spoken before but thanks to the community/family-like atmosphere of the forum he graciously accepted my cry for help.I doubt he wants public recognition as he tried to decline any compensation for his efforts, but I think it's important to give a boost to the community and show appreciation for the people here. It's cool to be able to connect with people all over the word because of this forum.
So...thank you Felix!
6
Open Discussion / Quadrovibe 2
« on: June 17, 2014, 11:13:51 AM »
Hey Brian, can you share some info on the Quadrovibe 2 that you mentioned in the recent Quadrovibe build report? I'm very curious about this one. Thanks!
7
General Questions / Anyone have a Mouser BOM for the Aquaboy?
« on: May 01, 2014, 08:49:56 PM »
I'm lazy and not in the Mouser mood right now. Does anyone have a BOM they would share for the Aquaboy?
I would be very appreciative if so.
I would be very appreciative if so.
8
Open Discussion / Man O War analog delay?
« on: April 18, 2014, 09:38:45 AM »
Anybody know more about this project other than the name and that it is in development? I can't seem to find anything when I search the forum.
Thanks!
Thanks!
9
General Questions / Optimum voltage of pin 8 of MN3101 and MN3005
« on: April 01, 2013, 05:44:10 PM »
I'm currently working on converting a BYOC delay to accept MN3005's. Yes, 4 of them.
In doing so, I have only tested on the "short" function (the BYOC has a switch to bypass the last 3 chips using only 1 for shorter delays). I have made a perf daughter board to swap power and ground between pins 1 and 5, and have also removed from the board the 100K resistors to ground off pins 3 and 4 and placed these on the daughter board to power as needed for the MN3005.
It does work, but only one repeat. I suspect this is another problem altogether.
My main questions are as these: What is the optimum voltage of pin 8 on both the MN3101 and MN3005? (they are tied together) And what is the purpose of the 1n4148 diode (or similar) on pin 1 of the MN3101?
On the aquaboy and my Ibanez AD202, the voltage is around 0.95-0.97 VDC. On the BYOC, it is 1.60 VDC. Now, whereas the aquaboy and AD202 have a diode between the power and pin 1 of the MN3101, the BYOC has the diode between pin 3 and ground. I have experimented with the BYOC here and with no diode anywhere I get 0.99 VDC on pin 8. With a diode on pin 1 I get 0.94 VDC.
I do get delay with the 1.60 VDC, so is it worth modifying to have the diode on pin 1 and lowering the voltage, or should I leave it as is?
If you have any guidance here, please share! Thanks for reading
I've attached the BYOC delay schematic.
In doing so, I have only tested on the "short" function (the BYOC has a switch to bypass the last 3 chips using only 1 for shorter delays). I have made a perf daughter board to swap power and ground between pins 1 and 5, and have also removed from the board the 100K resistors to ground off pins 3 and 4 and placed these on the daughter board to power as needed for the MN3005.
It does work, but only one repeat. I suspect this is another problem altogether.
My main questions are as these: What is the optimum voltage of pin 8 on both the MN3101 and MN3005? (they are tied together) And what is the purpose of the 1n4148 diode (or similar) on pin 1 of the MN3101?
On the aquaboy and my Ibanez AD202, the voltage is around 0.95-0.97 VDC. On the BYOC, it is 1.60 VDC. Now, whereas the aquaboy and AD202 have a diode between the power and pin 1 of the MN3101, the BYOC has the diode between pin 3 and ground. I have experimented with the BYOC here and with no diode anywhere I get 0.99 VDC on pin 8. With a diode on pin 1 I get 0.94 VDC.
I do get delay with the 1.60 VDC, so is it worth modifying to have the diode on pin 1 and lowering the voltage, or should I leave it as is?
If you have any guidance here, please share! Thanks for reading
I've attached the BYOC delay schematic.
10
Tech Help - Projects Page / Aquaboy questions - Calling all aquaboy experts please!
« on: December 05, 2012, 07:16:49 PM »
I have an aquaboy project I bought from another member a while back and am about ready to box her up, but I have a few questions I'd like to ask the experts.
This is a dual MN3005 with modulation build. I built it stock first with a single MN3005 and now have good functioning modulation and double delay add-ons.
1) How loud should the wet signal be versus the dry throughout the pot rotation and at full clockwise? In my build I get the impression that my wet signal is way too strong compared to dry, making it hard to dial in the more subtle amounts of wet, and at full clockwise the wet signal is just ridiculously loud compared to dry. Is this normal? In the aquapuss "manual" online it says it goes from "mild to wild" or something similar. I had DM-2 for a short period and don't recall this happening. I socketed R33 and inserted a pot to dial in a just slightly louder wet vs mix blend at full clockwise. That value ended up being 130k. Is this reasonable or should I look for some problem prior to this point? Also, does having a value this large affect the overall sound of the effect in a way other than just lowering the wet signal level?
2) At what point should a stock build (i.e. a real aquapuss) start self oscillating and at what delay time? On my build it starts self oscillating very early and before half of the pot rotation. I socketed R31 and found a good value to be 130k here as well. At this point it does not self-oscillate at the long delay times with 2 MN3005's. At shorter settings it starts to self oscillate with the feedback pot near full clockwise. Is this what I should be looking for? Also, does this affect the sound of the effect in a way other than changing the point of self-oscillation and allowing me to dial in a wider range of feedback? My tests suggest no but I'd like a more technical answer if possible.
3) Have any of you tried an audio taper pot for the delay time? With 2 MN3005's I'm finding it's hard to dial in the shorter delay times now. I think a W taper pot would be perfect here but they're not around.
I should say that I am very pleased with this as I have it but I want to be sure that I'm getting the most out of it. Any help would be much appreciated.
This is a dual MN3005 with modulation build. I built it stock first with a single MN3005 and now have good functioning modulation and double delay add-ons.
1) How loud should the wet signal be versus the dry throughout the pot rotation and at full clockwise? In my build I get the impression that my wet signal is way too strong compared to dry, making it hard to dial in the more subtle amounts of wet, and at full clockwise the wet signal is just ridiculously loud compared to dry. Is this normal? In the aquapuss "manual" online it says it goes from "mild to wild" or something similar. I had DM-2 for a short period and don't recall this happening. I socketed R33 and inserted a pot to dial in a just slightly louder wet vs mix blend at full clockwise. That value ended up being 130k. Is this reasonable or should I look for some problem prior to this point? Also, does having a value this large affect the overall sound of the effect in a way other than just lowering the wet signal level?
2) At what point should a stock build (i.e. a real aquapuss) start self oscillating and at what delay time? On my build it starts self oscillating very early and before half of the pot rotation. I socketed R31 and found a good value to be 130k here as well. At this point it does not self-oscillate at the long delay times with 2 MN3005's. At shorter settings it starts to self oscillate with the feedback pot near full clockwise. Is this what I should be looking for? Also, does this affect the sound of the effect in a way other than changing the point of self-oscillation and allowing me to dial in a wider range of feedback? My tests suggest no but I'd like a more technical answer if possible.
3) Have any of you tried an audio taper pot for the delay time? With 2 MN3005's I'm finding it's hard to dial in the shorter delay times now. I think a W taper pot would be perfect here but they're not around.
I should say that I am very pleased with this as I have it but I want to be sure that I'm getting the most out of it. Any help would be much appreciated.
Pages: [1]