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Hey, I'm going to be biasing the flintlock flanger and I know people on the forum recommend the VC97 multimeter, but I was wondering if something like this would work since it's a bit cheaper:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LED-DIY-Sets-1Hz-50MHz-Crystal-Oscillator-Frequency-Counter-Meter-Kits-/231668525889?hash=item35f0852b41:g:weUAAOSwrklVcn00

These are two DBA fuzz wars, one for me and one for a good friend, built from Fuzz Dog's pcbs. I must say, I've never played a fuzz as inspiring. I was having a lot of trouble deciding which one I'd keep. The diode rating made a surprisingly large difference in tone. One of them has a more full low end sound that's really ballsy and the other has a little less low end but a little more fizzle gross. I decided to keep the fizzle gross one. They sound similar enough though that either one is a winner and there's so much volume/gain on tap that you can really dial in a wiiiiddeee range of tones.

The etch didn't turn out too hot =/...  well.. it got too hot and the toner burned off so it's very thin. I tried etching both in the same tub at the same time so maybe that had something to do with it?.. or maybe I just didn't apply the transfer well enough this time. Either way... I spray painted it teal and it just looked ugly so I spray painted black to the top after. Some teal came out in areas I removed too far. On one of them, before I spray painted it black, I tried filling in some spaces with a pink acrylic paint pen... did not work out well... but that's why one has some pink as well. Overall, I'm pleased though black paint to the rescue. It's a raw sounding circuit so the grunge box suits it well.

I'm so happy this is finally done. I want to give a quick thanks to everyone that helped me with my LED issue in the tech help forum. Also thank you Stomptown for giving me the LED bypass help. 

This is a Shoot the Moon Tremolo board I've had for a loooooonnnnnng time. This build gave me a good amount of trouble.. and definitely made me realize how lucky I was with some of my more complex builds that I've had no trouble on. Initially because of the backwards LED pads and my inability to trace on a schematic (something that was worked on a little with this build thanks to everyones help on the forum). The other frustration came from getting a little bit of ferric chloride into one of the holes where the screws go so I needed to do some drilling to get the screw to go in and stay. Now it can come out if I apply a little pressure from the bottom of the enclosure.. kinda useless but at least cosmetically serves a purpose.

I went back to etching via high gloss photo paper and it really does make a world of difference compared to using sharpie (even industrial high heat sharpie). For this one I drew the drawing on a piece of paper after tracing an outline of the enclosure and went to staples and scanned it.. (D's are backwards oops.) but I'm really happy with the way the etch came out along with the green theme. The D1 LED is wired as the main bypass LED and blinks when engaged.

I love this circuit.. It sounds wonderful and its so versatile. It can get anything from smooth swashes to dirty choppiness even into somewhat ring mod sounds.

I'm sure some of you would be interested in this project. I just bought myself a pre-order board.

Here's the link for the description of the project:
http://www.synthtopia.com/content/2015/03/31/new-diy-synth-the-crowminius-inspired-by-minimoog-cs-80/

This is the link to buy a board:
http://cs80-com.myshopify.com/products/crowminius-v1-1-bare-board-batch-1-special-pre-order

This is the main discussion board with more projects as well:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=135211

Hey you guys, I'm starting to think about what my pedalboard will look like over the next two years or so and it seems like everything is revolving around lots of potential saved settings (Eventide Pitchfactor, Strymon Timeline, 45000 looper, maybe a Strymon Mobius?). I don't know much about how it works but I assume having one main midi foot controller to switch between the pedals and to then switch between the banks of each pedal is the way to go... something like this?
http://www.customaudioelectronics.com/products?view=product&prod_id=prod41

Pretty pricey though.. I know nothing about using midi foot controllers either so i'd love to hear what people think or use for this sort of thing.

Nah, it's just a good old green bean  .. does remind me of space though; someday maybe I'll make a pedal that justifies that name. Friend really wanted me to make him a Tubescreamer. This is my first build report since being on here but not my first build. After seeing so many of the amazing builds all of you have done, I finally feel like some of the little things are transferring over into my builds. This is definitely the cleanest job i've done so far with the guts/spacing. I was going to put an optical illusion on the top or some labels for controls, but it's simplicity is growing on me and I think I may leave it fully blank. I really have become addicted with this hobby and I just want to thank everyone for their help and making this hobby possible for anyone looking to go deep enough into the rabbit hole.

<3 daniel

So I was biasing my d-bag and it was sounding amazing. It has MN3005s so I mounted the roadrage to the bottom of the enclosure. While I was doing some finishing turns on the trimpots, the wires attached to the VC were ripped out. I tried to remove the excess wire from the pads and I wasn't careful enough and both pads were seriously damaged. I was able to solder both wires "onto" where the pads were with what was left of them...the 15v pad in this case has the wire now only connected to the bottom of the pcb, and the ground wire is only connected to the top. None of the pots work except volume which now acts backwards (turn it left and volume increases, right and it goes away). I checked continuity and it seems to check okay for both pads.. it also seems 15v is running through the 15v pad... I'll check again tomorrow morning.


Any help would be hugely appreciated. It'll be pretty sad if this pedal is doomed

Do these kinds of conversion boards exist?? Sorry if I missed a big thread that discusses this extensively. Figured it'd be pretty cool since a lot of pedals I have been working on lately run on +9v but most run on -9v so I could still use my wall wart.

I'm assuming this is out of the question... but if it's not... rainbows   


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRtm8GaarLA

Hey, I'm building me a cave dweller and was wondering whether its imperative I use 1/8 watt resistors vs 1/4 watt. I'm searching smallbear and can't find any 1/8 w.


P.S. does anyone know if http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1070 (47 mf electrolytic caps) will fit? and I'm assuming these are hopefully the right Tants: http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=560


any higher knowledge is greatly appreciated; excited to get these parts and get this thing going.

 

Hey guys I just built a BSIAB 2 (sorry for bringing up an issue with a pedal not from madbean), and I get a little noise from the pedal when it's just sitting there, but when I put my finger on the top of the bot (knobs aren't on yet) then the noise resolves. I assume this is some sort of grounding issue? Should I put electrical tape on the connections of the pot? or in between the pot and the enclosure? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

mucho gratsi,

Daniel

Hey guys, so I'm about to put a road rage into my jmk op amp big muff and was just wondering.... If I connect the power supply jack into the positive 9v pad and ground pad next to it like it does in the wiring diagram of the road rage, where does the -9v wire go to? (board I assume?) Also, on the JMK op amp board, the 9v pad says +9v. This is why I'm a little confused. I hope I didn't confuse any of you guys with this explanation.

This is my first build. Finished the drilling a little hastily last night... soooo that's why it looks so pretty.

The pedal works but there's a hardcore volume drop. I'm about to be late for work but i figured i'd send these pictures first to see if anyone had any clue as to the problem from looking at the bottom of the board. If nobody can figure anything out, i'll post pictures of the top during my lunch break.

Any advice is much appreciated!

Hey so this may be one of the most if not the most noob question on the entire forum, but I am about to buy a green bean board and am now wondering what am I to do from here. I know i need to source all the parts (which at the moment seems like a very daunting task), but once I recieve the parts, do I need to find some sort of instruction manual with step by steps on how to assemble the parts? Or do instructions come with the board? Like I said, I am as new as it comes so I hope this question doesn't offend anyone here. I'm just a poor kid wanting to save as much money as possible while making awesome sounds .

Curious... also I was looking at http://forums.vintageamps.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=88362 and someone was saying something about the Landgraff clone which is supposed to be awesome. I was wondering if anyone had any input on the notion of that pedal. Would I need to get different parts (I'm assuming yes... and wondering what parts instead of what).

All feedback is greatly appreciated.