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Well not the Runt.  That was the easy part.  But I've been stuck on this one for awhile.

First was the Stage Fright that I haven't been able to de-bug yet. 

Then there was the EXTREMELY poor pre-drilling measurements. The jacks, knobs, power jack, could not be any closer literally.

Then there was the non standard switching system that took me a couple of tries to get right (never could get it to work with APIS clone, even though the klone works fine on the test rig. I suspect a grounding issue: or trying to jam the dual concentric pot into that space against it's will. I like the Wicked Switching sytem. It's like a relay system without the expensive parts.

Fortunately I had a three knob little Runt which was ready to fit the bill, and the 9mm pots were absolutely necessary.

The box is a combo etch, alcohol ink deal, that's been done for quite awhile.







I'm starting to feel a little comfortable creating original art in Inkscape now. Here's the guts. Terrible for sure, but I just wanted to get this thing working solidly, close it up, and then never open it again!



So glad this one is done.

Next up is a Harbringer one which fired right up the first time!

Cheers!

James

This project involved a lesson in the importance of socketing cheap transistors.     It also involved a lesson in measure twice before drilling. I had to get fairly creative with the dc jack, and it's smooshing the board something fierce.







I'ts 15v with the Road Rage, and sounds way better than I remember Chorus sounding in the 80's. Like it after a Fuzz Face or Cherry Bomb.

Getting the art right on the etch was brutal, but I'm happy with how it turned out. Giant LED's are growing on me too.

Cheers!

Love this thing. It's been done for some time now.







I used BC 108s for the trannies. Great for overdrive, and when you crank it up, just the right about of snarl. The tone controls have major range, great pedal for riding a guitar's volume knob.

Etching is sort of a Mrs. Pac-Man cave art sort of theme.

Nice easy build, wonderful sound.

Cheers.

If I'm putting a bunch of circuits in one box, and one of them is a PNP Zygote powered by a Road Rage (no battery), are there any grounding particulars I need to be concerned with?

Is there any problem with the Zygote board/switch grounds going to the same place (output sleeve) as a buffer, and a green ringer clone?

Happy New Year!

I'm preparing to spawn a zygote. 

I've received all the parts, including a matched pair of PNP trannies from the bear.

The transistors came with the resistors to bias them, so here are my basic questions:

1) Which resistors do these biasing resistors replace in the zygote circuit? (I tried looking at the schematic, but my skills are rudimentary, and I want to be correct)

2) If one of these resistors replaces the trimpot, do I simply put that resistor into the 1 & 3 holes for the trimmer?

Thanks for any illumination. Happy New Year to all!!!

Hi folks, I was wondering what I should do next.

If anyone has any IC  voltage readings for MN3007 9v or 15v (same problem either way), perhaps that would be a good next step?

(1) Project Name: Pork Barrel

(2) General description of the problem: I'm getting a substantial ice-picky boost when the effect is engaged.  I guess that it is possible that this is normal for the effect, but it seems both unpleasant and severe. This is most obvious when adjusting the trimmer. There is no non-distorted setting without the massive boost and treble accentuation.

(3) Steps that you have taken to try to resolve the issue:

A) I started with both the road rage and depth mods and went back to 9v and no depth mod in order to reduce the variables.

B) I replaced all of the ICs.

C) I took a digital picture and blew it up and double checked all of the resistor codes, IC orientation, diode orientation, transistor orientation, and electro capacitor orientation.

D) Checked all capacitor values and double checked the transistor numbers.

E) Checked for solder bridges and reflowed the whole board.

(4) List any substitutions you used for parts/values

I have not made any substitutions.

I suspect that the problem could be in the area that amplifies the effected signal as the board passes un-boosted audio without effect when the trimmer is turned fully counter-clockwise. Unfortunately I'm not good enough with schematics to know where that would be-or if I'm on the right track or not. The transistors are cheap tayda transistors and perhaps they are out of spec if they are involved in the amplification.

Any help would be much appreciated. I've pretty much exhausted what I can do on my own at this point. If it would be useful I could grab IC or transistor pin voltages.

Happy Thanksgiving weekend.

All the best.

James

Been meaning to post something here.

I've got a few in the bag at this point, but his was my first etch:










Has a weathered look, but I am quite pleased with how it turned out. Sounds great too. I got my MN3005s from Polida and had no issues with them.

Sorry if this is too obvious, but is it necessary to connect the ground/shield to a ground point?

James

I've completed an MN3005 Dirtbag and it is wonderful. (I'll do a build report when I get knobs.) The only problem is that the circuit is super easy to clip--which I understand is a 'feature' of the original DMM.

I have to lower the level of the effect and preceding drives to well below unity to avoid the clipping diode being constantly red. It does create an audible difference, I'm not just listening with my eyes. 

The question I have, because I'm largely illiterate when it comes to complicated schematics:

Is the clipping indicator actually part of the audio circuit? Or does it merely indicate that clipping is occurring?

If it is part of the audio circuit, would using a more robust LED than a 5mm red diffused make any difference?

Thanks to anyone with knowledge.

James

Is this possible? Would it involve jumpering the two throws together?

James

Howdy folks,

Does the orientation of the 7815T in the road rage matter? If so, which side faces toward the board (as opposed to the edge) The pins were too thick to socket to test myself.

Also, if not using the voltage sag feature, can I just leave the trimmer on the new board off? Or do I have to add a resistor or jumper?

Thanks in advance for answering my most basic questions.

All the best,

SB

For a build like the Dirtbag where the delay ICs only have 8 legs, would any harm come from snipping the unused socket legs in-between?

Thanks

SB

Hi I'm working on a build, and Tayda, which is great, sent me 1 watt instead of 1/4 watt 10k resistors. The size I can work around, any other reason not to use them?

SB