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Hey guys, been a while since I've been here, but I'm glad to see the forum is as awesome as ever! I have been really interested in the Epic Looper from TH Customs/JMK but today I saw that BYOC has their own 8 channel looper! Does anyone have any experience with either one? Building/sourcing parts/operation/cost, I would love to hear some feedback from someone wiser than myself (not hard to do 😄)

When I saw the demo video for its pedal my mind was blown. It later occurred to me that I probably wouldn't have many practical uses for such a beast, but I can't shake that feeling that I need one! Just wondered if anyone had any actual experience with it.

Okay, so I have been obsessed with all things guitar since I was six years old. That being said I am not very creative and sometimes have a short attention span. This leads to very short practice sessions for me. I need some new material! Anybody know of some good/free resources for learning new songs and techniques? I just want to sound like Brian Setzer, SRV and Mark Knopfler. That isn't that hard right?

Last night  I was able to populate and test my SMD practice kit I bought from Paul (chromesphere) a few weeks ago. I was dragging my feet cause I didn't have any flux ( I was waiting to make an order from mouser). Although my method may not have been the best, it seemed to work just fine. I pre tinned the pads on the board, used a desoldering braid to get excess solder off the pads, and then used my flux core solder  on the tip of my iron, very carefully held the component in place with my Swiss Army knife tweezers, and heated up the pad until solder flowed and there was a good joint. Not the preferred method, but I did feel a bit Macguyverish and it was really satisfying when I plugged it in and it worked! I know it's not the biggest news, but I thought I would share to encourage those who want to try it out. I think  I actually like it!

I have seen a few people use this add on for some pt2399 delays. I tried connecting it to a Cave Dweller with no luck. Should it be as easy as connecting the D pad to lug 1 of the Delay pot or am I missing something? Ultimately I would like to add it to the Zero Point DD. Any thoughts?

Just wanted to show what I've been working on lately Uploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.usZombii. Used the sino pair from Small Bear which I like better than the AC128's. Pretty much stock other than that.Uploaded with ImageShack.usRub-A-Dub with JimmyBJJ's Klon buffer on the output. Didn't intend to use a 125b, but I needed a reverb quickly for easter so I just used what I had. Worked out pretty well when I threw the buffer in there though.Uploaded with ImageShack.usThunderpuss with a board mounted 16mm pot.Uploaded with ImageShack.usKingslayerUploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.usI really like the way this one turned out. Cherry veneer with black spray paint on top with gold paintpen. At the moment I have a russian MN35 trannie I snagged from Paul (Chromesphere) I may swap it out for an AC127 that I have from PPP.

And now my favorite new addition:
Uploaded with ImageShack.usMy son Kohen Michael was born last Sunday at our home. My new apprentice! I go back to work tomorrow, so don't be surprised if you don't hear from me for a while 

As with all of Brian's projects I'm sure it is very well thought out and usable, but who has built one and what do you like, dislike about it?

So I got one of those Vintage Modified Jazzmasters about a year ago and did some work to it to make it a little more like a real Jazzmaster (new pickgaurd, rythm circuit, etc...). To my dismay, after I bought it, Squier came out with a jazzmaster that has all the typical accoutraments (dammit!). I really do like my guitar, except the bridge is totally lame and transfers very little resonance to the body. Anyone have any experience with these cheap bridges and/or have some suggestions for a retrofit?

Unfortunately, I don't get to keep this one. I made it for a friend who asked for one a few months ago, but I didn't know of a layout. This is my first go at vero and I'm glad it fired up first try, cause if there were any problems, I wouldn't even know where to begin! With cutting the traces, and all the jumpers, I'm pretty sure I would still rather etch a board...
Uploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.us This pedal sounds really good! I don't have any experience with the production model, but I enjoyed the short time I got to mess around with this one. I'm surprised no one has made etching artwork (or rather, I wish someone had ) The enclosure is just black paint, circles are made with a wire brush put into a drill press and graphic is done with sharpie. I kinda like how it bled after I did the clearcoat.

So, my lovely wife is due to have our third child one week from today, which pretty much means any minute. I currently have a Kingslayer and a Cosmopolitan verified and ready to be boxed along with half a dozen other projects in the works. Will I get anything done before D-Day? Will I have time after baby is here? Will I even care about pedal building when I have an infant and two other young children depriving us of sleep? (I hope so, something has got to take my mind off of this hobby right?). Oh well, good problems to have

I etched up a board last night and am looking for some tips from somebody who has used both variations of the circuit. I heard there is info on the forum to change the cosmo into a Lunar module, can someone point me in the right direction?

I guy I know has a sweet old De Armond 1602 volume pedal with a crackly pot that I may end up buying and fixing it up for myself. What is the best taper/resistance for a volume pedal? I've never owned a volume pedal before and I'm not really familiar with them (not that there is really much to them...)

I finally got this thing boxed up and I am very proud of it! Huge thanks to MysticWhiskey for sharing his artwork, mjcyates for sharing his Mouser BOM, and The Bean for such a great project! I used a laser engraver for the graphics. Seeing as I am using Smallbear MN3005 fakes, I plan on doubling them up for the right amount of delay so I still have a bit of messing around to do before I can call this project complete. I used the extra tall 1590bb from Mammoth so I would have enough room for the extra boards once the double delay is operational.

                          *****EDIT****


Double Delay is Operational! At first I used a layout from FSB but either the layout wasn't right for the circuit, or I screwed something up. It's no surprise that Brians layout for the Aquaboy 2012 project was much better suited for the Dirtbag!



This is just to Illustrate how much room is in this enclosure! This is the Third layer of PCB and there is room to spare! Road rage is 3m taped to the enclosure, Dirtbag is mounted with the pots, and Double Delay is nicely wedged between the walls on top of everything with room to spare. The new wiring is a bit messy, but I can access all of the trimpots, and after trying to keep 16 24 gauge wires in those sockets, I wasn't going to mess with it after it worked! Thanks to Lacesensor, Scruffie, Madbean and everyone else who gave advice with this add on!

There are quite a few options on ebay and some sellers in Hong Kong are offering lots of ten for dirt cheap. Has there been a problem with getting fakes like some other NOS parts?

Still finding the sweet spot on the La Vache side, but I really like the transparent OD's lately so it's a nice addition to the arsenal. The Thunderpuss is my new "secret ingredient". Even with the gain turned all the way down, it adds a brightness without being harsh. These two seem to be paired nicely. The only other thing I may do is add a switch to swap the order in the signal chain. Anyone care to add any input on achieving this?






The yellow is non-boosted La Vache and the blue is boost engaged.

After having this thing done for months now, I am finally getting around to making a build report. I've been reaping the benefits of this online community for a couple of years now and I think it's about time I contribute something (crude as it may be).






After reading the thread notes about the 'popping' with the switch, I did the pull down resistor trick, but I also I decided to give the relay bypass trick a go. I went with the AMZ true bypass relay system because it was the first one I found, and I think Jack O is awesome. Major props go out to Brian for the layout! I didn't even think about it until I went to box it up and I realized that everything was already in the right place Also, this was my first foray into PCB mounted pots... Win! Kill two birds with one stone, pot wiring is a PITA and board mounting can be tricky. Color is PPP custom "Gloss Black- Aqua Illusion" which turned out to be more green than expected, but sparkly and shiny nonetheless. I tried hand painting the graphics and it turned out alright, but someday I will be able to make cool graphics on the compy like so many of you talented people.

This may seem like a trivial question to some more experienced builders, but what is up with the R at the end of "470R"? I wasn't sure so I ordered both 470 ohm and 470K. Are either of these values going to work?

 I have seen some very impressive graphics done by some DIY'ers who seem to also be graphic designers. What is a user friendly/cheap software program (I use a Mac) that I can get started with? I am very interested to know how some of these guys get their pedals to look so legit! Replies are much appreciated!