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I found a Laserwolf pcb I forgot I had...
I looked around the archive in the shop section but I seem unable to find the building doc... does anyone have a copy of it?
Cheers

Hallo all.

I do have a (minor) concern regarding LEDs anode and cathode conventions.
I used to assume that anodes (the long leg) should go into the square pad, however I have noticed that some designers (TH and Fuzzdog for example) decide otherwise. I understand that this should be the correct way - axial diodes' cathodes usually go in the square pad - so it is only natural that this applies to LEDs too.
I just read a note fro pedalpcb.com where they say they are phasing out the anode-in-the-square design in favour of a more correct approach of cathode-in-the-square.
Where does MB sit with regards to LED installs?
Cheers

To cut short a long story - I spent the last two months fixing my old Yamaha T100.
Turned out it was a bust octocoupler. Since I was at it, I also recapped it and did the infamous "choke mod".
This brought it further in Soldano-land, however its biggest weakness remained un-touched, specially now that I got into pedal-making.
The loop is waaaay too hot for pedals to handle - so it will work on the clean channel but once you switch to the crunch it doesn't sound exactly great...
I understand this is a common issue with the glorious SLO too, so at least these two amps have some similarities 😂
I don't want to fiddle with the amp, I mean - I brought it back from the land of the dead and that was already a big ask form my abilities.
My question is - can I make an external unit that will live on my board and that can tame the signal from the loop? Something that is also able to restore some signal back into the return?
I looked up the units Ceriatone makes (dumbulator sort of thing) but apart from a layout I could not find any schematics

Guys, I need your help here.
I have misplaced the bottom plate screws of an old big box Memory Man.
Does anyone know where I can get replacements or, alternatively, what size of machine screws  do I need to source? I am UK based.

Cheers

Hallo all!
More than anything I need some moral support.
I recently acquired a lot of 4 old Electro Harmonix units, via a gear exchange FB page.
True to the description of the vendor the Bad Stone works alright - that alone warranted the asking price...
Now the fun bit:
I also got a three knobs Memory Man, the mn3005 and the compander are there, the board seems unmolested however the light comes on but there's no signal.
Also i acquired an electric mistress deluxe, the enclosure is rusty as hell, i mean so damaged that the rust has actually pierced the steel. The good news is that the Sad1024 is still there in its socket...
And lastly a 10 bands EQ. I havent even looked at it yet.
Mind you, these things have been sitting in a garage up in Scotland for 20 odd years.

Do you have any tip to deal with the rust without screwing up the flimsy graphics? I suppose - short of magic - no. But i thought i'd ask you fellas.
Second, what would you do to troubleshoot the units? How do you tell whether the Sad is dead (if it is, adieu mon mistress)? Where to start?

I feel i've taken more than i can chew...

Hi all.
I can't get my head around this, i feel such a n00b!
Basically I need/want to add send and retun jacks between an overdrive and a delay circuits in a multi I am building.

My understanding is that the send jack should be linked to the out of circuit 1 and the return to the input of circuit 2.
My goal is that when no other pedal is plugged in the s/n the two circuits act as they would chained one another...
Do you have any schematic or (better) a layout of such wiring? I sort of figured i might need stereo jacks but my n00bness prevents me to go ahead 😂

Any help?

I don't quite know if this is the correct section to post it. If this is moved I won't be surprised
So I've built a few Harbingers, a Neovibe and the Forum Vibe.
I must say the Harbinger is by far the most builder friendly platform (tonally they're all very similar if not identical, as you would expect).
Though, I've always loved the original big boxes - I guess I have a thing with big enclosures...
Does anyone here have the measures/drawings of the original Univibe enclosure? I would like to have one fabbed (a friend has a workshop) and try my hand at getting close enough.
Also, does anybody know where I can source a red/white spdt switch? Farnell has it in red - or white. I'm just tempted to get it in white and paint the other half.
Thanks chap for your help.

PS I'm having issues in accessing FSB - I seem to remember there was a long(ish) thread there - If you have some file to share it would be appreciated.

So, I built a first Black Horse Duplex some time ago when I came across a group buy.
Foolishly I ordered a board only. Long story short a good friend of mine, long time Floyd obsessee, took it from me

Luckily a second batch became available and this time I ordered two (thanks electricb!).

This time, I built it in the "original", ginormous enclosure, and for kicks I decided to go with the classic colour scheme and lettering - obviously I couldn't resist to add a couple of puns. The battery drawer is on the front (ala Way Huge), rather than on the side - just in case you need to swap the battery while the pedal is attached to the board.

I made a couple of swaps in the G2 section, as per Kit Rae muff page and crucially I ditched the GE diodes in favour of a quartet of BAT43. Its' punchy, it's loud and I love the way it sounds. The wiring inside is messy, I know

I hope that Mr. Bernard Odant of Paris (France) is one of us and will read this.

Hey Bernard, Musikding has made a right mess of your order and dispatched it to me, in Northampton (UK).
I feel for you, as a components' parcel on a Friday morning means one thing only: a happy weekend high on solder fumes...
Sorry pal, your univibe will have to wait (lamps, LDRs and 1uF caps are more than a clue).

I sent Musikding an email. Let's see what they say.
I am more than happy to send the package to you, however I can only do it on Monday... apologies!

Well, this was it.
Have a great weekend folks!

Hi guys!
I bought some wedge-shaped enclosures from Mac Walker (here in the 'emporium'), and they are great 
I thought I'd use them for some 'vintage flavoured' circuit as well... so here they are:
a TB MKIII loaded with AC128s and a Retrograde.
I'm reasonably happy with the finish too: fisrt time I used Hammerite.
For the grey enclosure I used the hammerite rattle can. A couple of light passes seem to do the trick.
For the purple one instead I first applied a coat of primer (with a brush - you can see the red blobs in the guts pic...), then mixed blue and red paint and applied with a sponge.
Sound wise the TB is an absolute beast, thick and rough around the edges... I love it!!!
The Retrograde circuit is a quirky one: the controls seem to have little effect on the sound, specially the fuzz pot....
The octave is all there though and the fuzz tone is nice and huge - think led zep with the octave disengaged and Hendrix with with the octave on!
Well, enough talk... here's the pics

Hi there. I've been scratching my head with this build for the past couple of days.
Here's what happens: when I power up the board, the LFO led glows and then goes off, and after this the bulb gets really bright. After a second or so the bulb starts pulsing as it should, while the led stays off.
It took me two leds to realise they were not bust (I took they just died, but no).

Also, and I think this is related, the speed is much too slow. Phased sound is coming out nicely, but compared to my other Harbinger the speed is about a half.
I have not subbed anything from the BOM, so i'm really puzzled here...

Thoughts?

Hi folks,

I finished a Zero Point DD and it works a treat, only its output is way too hot...
When I tested it (ok it was late at night) my amp volume was really really dimed, and the repeats were ok, so I thought it was fine....
It is now boxed and all, but it does bug me.
The only sub I made war R28, where I used a 680R instead of the listed 620R.

I'm now considering to hook a 100k pot to the output to tame it somehow, as it boosts my signal!
In fact is a perfect "solo pedal" now

Any ideas?

Hi chaps. Been a long time lurker here, and the quality of the builds I see around here is nothing short of amazing.
So... honestly I'm not quite sure if I should post this but there you go.

This is my well gigged board, a klon(e) (board from Pedalparts.co.uk), Madbean Smoothie, Triangle Muff (Aion Electronics Halo board), then an AC>BB>RC in one enclosure (excellent boards etched by Haberdasher), Madbean Pork Barrel and Mandbean Zero Point DD.

I went for a simple, almost cartoonish look. Had to label all the knobs in the multipedal tho...
No way I'm going to post the guts... maybe in a few years 

Apologies for the crappish Blackberry pic...



Cheers

Right good people.
Been a lurker for some time here, and got inspired by fellow forum members to step up my game and try my hand with something actually complicated....
I've built a Harbinger One and it fired up first time around 
Only it was way too tame, so I did a bit of searching here on the forum and swapped R45 with a 4.7K resistor. It did the trick!!!
Now to the issues: compared to my Fulltone Minidejavibe2 the sound is quite darker, the "intensity" pot doesn't seem to have a big impact (B50k pot) same as the "offset" trimmer (250k).
In fact the depth of the effected sound is quite shallow.
Could it be the cap I used to cover the bulb&photocells combo? I used a plastic cap covered with black electrician tape. Could some reflective aluminum tape on the inside of the cap make any difference?

I'm still quite chuffed I pulled off this build  ... I'd love to address these minor points tho.
Thanks all for your input!