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Has anyone tried a TIS58 in the Fat Pants Jr instead of a J201?
It should work, right?

A while back I made an attenuator using a 16ohm L-Pad based on the instructions on this site http://guitarprojects.weebly.com/diy-attenuator.html.
So far so good but I was wondering if I could modify it to switch between 16ohm and 8 ohm speakers, my amp already has switchable impedance.

Would adding a 50w 16ohm resistor across the L-Pad make it 8ohms? Is there a better way, or just make another one from scratch using an 8ohm L-Pad?

Not sure how many jazz heads there are here considering it's not a genre that uses many effects, but we have just lost a legend, the great Jim Hall.

R.I.P Jim

I just got this pcb from an electronics junk shop for (equivalent of) a dollar.
funky green caps,  germanium diodes and cool looking Hitatchi brand 2sc4541 transistors (no idea if they are useful yet).

Anyone else found some treasure in old junk? pics appreciated.

Just finished my 15v (road rage) current lover and I'm trying to get it biased.

The flange starts with the trimmer at about 1 o'clock and there's quite a lot of distortion. As I turn the trimmer fully clockwise the distortion is much less but still noticeable with hot humbuckers . Adjusting the clock doesn't help much with the distortion.

I'll get some voltages when after I've had some sleep but I'm wondering if socketing R12 and substituting it with 47k would give me some more room to play with?

PS it seems better with my voodoo labs pp2p than my one spot.

I've built a tagboard Gainster clone and I love it so much I bought 2 Egghead pcbs and will make one stock and the other I'll socket the diodes just to see what other options sound like.

Has anyone already tried this?

This morning I just finished off a tagboard Clark Gainster clone. I made the board last year, based off the turretboard layout here http://circuitworkshop.com/forum/index.php?topic=249.0.

It's not the tidiest but it took a while to find out where to put everything and I originally used a 10x2 board but found I only needed a 6x2 board. I improvised a piggyback daughterboard for the opamp.

Values are stock and I changed the ceramic cap to a mica between rocking it and boxing it. The enclosure is a gold hammertone 125b which I originally panned to use for a Kingslayer (that one will get a metallic gold case instead), still got room for a battery

I'm probably going to change the knobs for either some brown Fender cupcakes or black retro type.

Oh yeah, and it sounds awesome!







ARF!

Here is my Nautilus. I wanted to do something like the original Mutron with a twist. Partly inspired by sst4270's "Nauti-tron" artwork.




Lowrider




Double Flush



..and Mudbunny "Big Muff Phi", violet ram's head spec.

[Afterlife]

Here is a round up of the pedals I've managed to get done in the last two months. Some of these were quite straightforward, others have had issues that took a while to get sorted out but I've happy to say they are now on my 'finished but might tweak' list 



Top row left to right:
Afterlife, my first 1590a. Went together very cleanly and smoothly. I'm proud of the guts on that one.

Zero Point Mini, 5 knobber. Added the knobs for modulation. Thanks to Juan Solo I could eliminate the clock noise with some shielding.

Collosalus. More clock noise with this, had to do the mods in the power section as per the doc. Clean as a whistle now.

Pork Barrel. This one had a charge pump and sounded great with a battery but there was a terrible noise with a power supply. I've removed the charge pump and now it's ok but I prefer it at 15v. I'm going to put the road rage in a small enclusure and try it externally instead.

SJ Effects Prince Albert. None more black? Stuffed with huge caps but I botched up the dc jack and only got round to fixing it yesterday. Sounds awesome.

Bottom row:
Bloviator. I was going to call it Top 'N' Bottom but I liked Top 'n' Tail better.

Rub-a-Dub. Short brick. Not sure where I got the idea for the name and graphic...

Bumblebee. This has got the mojo thing happening and some nice trannies from Chromesphere. Thanks mate!

Honeydripper. Another homage. This pedal should have been made last year but I had to learn how to draw circles in Illustrator first 

I have more pics and gut shots which I can add later if there's interest.

I'm trying to decide whether to put the Prince Albert or the Honeydripper in the April contest. Times running out. Must decide...

I'm thinking of getting one as it's a bit more flexible than the voodoo power supply.

Only problem is no one in japan seems to stock it anymore, maybe there has been a change in distribution, so my only option would be ordering from the US.

Any experiences, positive or negative?

Hi,
I just did a demo of my Retrograde for the February monthly build contest and then realised that I finished my pedal at the end of January so I don't qualify.
Bummer!

Edit: seems like a do qualify after all Yippee!

Anyway, the pedal is in this thread
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=8097.0

and here is the demo

[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/gingataff/retrograde[/soundcloud]

I've finally boxed up my first 'Bean. A lovely Retrograde.

The skinny:

MadBean fabbed board and SJ Effects 3PDT board.
Alps pots
Switchcraft jacks
Sato knobs
Alpha 3PDT
Belden teflon wire
Nichicon Electrolytics, Toshin Kogyo film caps and some random ceramic fella.
1/4w Carbon comps
Diodes, transistors and transformer as per the BOM.
White LED (looks blue in the pic)
Blue hammertone Ibanez style enclosure.

Special thanks to Brian and Steve for the great PCBs. The socket on the 3PDT was invaluable while I spent a few hours hunting down a loose piece of solder that was causing a short.

I did a quick search and I couldn't find any previous mention of this but how about having a Pedal of the Month vote in the Build Reports section, like they do a guitar of the month over at the Warmoth forum?

Just a thought

Just a shot in the dark, does anyone know any good apps that are useful for us pedal builders?
I'm thinking design tools for pcbs and decals.

Hello again,
I had a quick search and couldn't find info about this.
I fancy using some mallory 150s in a project and I was wondering if, other than size and esthetics, there's any reason axial caps shouldn't be mounted standing up?

Andy.

Hi,
I've  been testing a bunch of caps in the pF range using my cheapo pocket meter and almost all of them are showing values lower than they should be. I know there is a range of tolerance but the differences are quite consistent. For example my 100pF caps read about 86pF, 120 is 100, 150 is 120. etc.
It doesn't seem to matter if the caps are ceramic, mica or panasonic film.

Do I have a load of caps that are a low (there are a few which seem to be ok) or should I be looking at buying a new meter?

Any help appreciated, thanks.