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Hi

I was going through the box of parts and came across an old Mad Bean PCB for the Smoothie MXR phase 45 clone.

Going through the archives I can only find 2015 layout for the Smoothie, and a more modern layout.

https://madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/StandardSeries/pdf/Smoothie.pdf

The layout that I have is the one shown in the link.

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=3807.0

If you are able to assist me, I would greatly appreciate your help.

Regards

Mark

Finishing off the case  has always been the most difficult part of the build for me so being able to buy a decal for the case I'm going to use saves me a lot of time and gives me the professional result that I'm looking for.

I look forward to buying boards and Decals. Thanks for bringing this out I really appreciate it.

Regards

Mark

Hi

I built a Ge MK 2 Bender on a Mad Bean board. As you'd expect it's a great board to work with and better than other boards I've used in the past.

The thing that gets me is the circuit info called out for a reverse log 1K pot. The pedals sounds very nice, but the gain control only does stacks of fuzz and even more Fuzz.

I can't but help think the reverse taper pot is a typo and it should be a linear pot at very least.

What are your thoughts and experiences with the Tonebender MK 2?

Regards

Mark

Hi

During the COVID19 I have been going through old projects. I have been working on my Deadringer 2.

I originally built the Deadringer 2 using the IRF510 FETs (for clipping) but changed to the 2N7000 as the IRF510 wouldn't fit in my enclosure. I have now a larger enclosure and can accommodate the IRF510, is it worth replacing the 2N7000 with the IRF510?

Is there a noticeable sonic difference?

During the whole process I decided to run the effect of 18v instead of 9v (via the Road Rage pcb). I think the Deadringer sounds more articulate with 18v, though I could be mistaken as the battery I was using initially was only good for 7v.

Regards

Mark

What caps are used for C5,C6,C7 & C8?

They are small positions for relatively large caps.

Thanks for your help.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Deadringer2/Deadringer2.pdf

Regards

Mark

I have a rectangular Sunking II pcb but have no layout. Can someone supply me with a link for the layout.

I've noticed I'm missing the layout for the Rectangular Kingslayer with no pot mounting eyelets for the gain control.

Thanks for your assistance.

Regards

Mark

Hi

I don't have the 2014 board but the previous one (I believe). The oscillation issue occurs when I turn the guitars volume down, the Retrograde goes into a low frequency (as far as I can hear) oscillation, it goes away when I turn the guitars volume up. I know it seems like a trival issue, but I like to know I have the effect working perfect before I case it up.

I have experimented with moving both earth wires from the input jack earth to the output jack earth, but it made no difference.

EDIT: I tried shorting the input and the noise went away, I tried shorting the end of the cable which is plugged into the guitar and the noise went away. I tried another guitar, and the noise was the same. I'll try another guitar later.

Has anyone come across this issue before and can you make any recommendations?

Thanks for your assistance in advance.

Regards

Mark

Hi
This is a mod I'm considering.

I'm intending to wire the octave switch so there are three positions, one will be normal fuzz, the second will be octave and the third will be resistors and a cap set up so it simulates turning my guitar down and rolling the treble back. The idea being that I will only have to turn the effect on while switching to my neck pickup. This is much easily to do on the fly.

As far as mods go this is what I can find.

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/toctpl_body_mod.gif

Mark

EDIT: I think I'd like to see a new board with the pot mounted directly to the board. The current Retrograde board has either the pots or the input wiring backwards, it is still annoying. It is still a bit better than the GGG board, but in fairness they are different, and have pro's and con's.

Hi

I bought some 2N3565's for a Cherrybomb build but I'm having difficulty finding the correct pinout. I dare say this is a common issue that has been resolved here. Please advise.

http://www.oddmix.com/semi/px/2n3565.jpg

Mark

Oops, found this. 

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=8148.0

It's probably not the best first post but it is on my mind.

I have been meaning to build an active A/B/Y switcher. I know R.G.Keen designed one

http://www.geofex.com/FX_images/humfree2.gif

I have no idea if it is any good, though a project like this would be good to build.

I have a Pasty Face in the works, though I'd also like to build a Tonebender 2 without the tone control, is there an existing board for this type of build?

I know BYOC has a Tonebender 2 kit, but I'd prefer to buy a board and get my own components. The Mad Bean boards are great, very well thought out.

Mark