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Test fired the Old School and LFO is happening, LED varies with speed Knob, but no volume change. All my voltages are good EXCEPT collector of T1 which reads 9.8 instead of 17.xx. The voltage going into R7 (4K7) is @22, coming out is 9.8. Is that correct or should I try a different value for R7?

Built up the Triumvirate distortion over the weekend, and fired right up. This thing is loud. I like the idea of being able to emphasize both volume and gain of each band, and I got a good sound with all 57    internal trims in the middle. It went straight on my board for a gig tomorrow night, but I'm curious to tweak and see what else is revealed.  Built in a 1590BS with bottom mounted jacks (to sit on the top row of my board).

Do the treble mod as indicated in the build doc—it has way too much as is, and was squealing a bit while testing—cleared up once I boxed it up. Well worth building if you own stock in Bournes!

Anyone know what's a common sub that would be good for this circuit? I have everything but that one IC to do the build.

Thanks!

I seem to recall a thread talking about getting a bit more boost from the second stomp on the Cascadia but can't find it. Anyone know where it lives? Thanks!

Played this on a gig Tuesday night and it is the total bomb diggity. I want to have this pedal's children. Amp-like response, stays articulate—even with gain dimed (with the mids all the way up, mahogany tele, humbuckers), lots of tonal variations.  No guts, cause there are practically no guts to see—and it's not coming off my board! Great circuit! Kudos to Jason!

For anyone else who has built this, do you get popping when you switch channels? Bypass is totally quiet, btw. Tried both wiring versions, same result. I never noticed at low volume, but now gigging with it...

Is there  way to increase the overall volume of the Freekout? I need it to be above unity rather than a bit below.
Thanks!

Fired up the Merman and it works, but am getting unwanted, verging on farty, breakup from the Bottom control and fizz from the Warm control (which I can almost dial out by backing off Warm and treble). I checked components and reflowed and my voltages are close (maybe pin 6 of the 7662 is low?)
9.18 V from power supply
IC 1
1 4.29
2 4.3
3 3.05
4 1.5mV
5 4.26
6 4.26
7 4.3
8 8.57

IC2
1 4.25
2 4.29
3 4.29
4 -8.49
5 4.29
6 4.29
7 4.34
8 16.62

7662
1 8.57
2 5.04
3 1.5 mV
4 -3.9
5 -8.49
6 3.59
7 5.06
8 8.56

Any thoughts on what might be the issue?

Thanks!

Just finished the Choral Reef with bottom mounted jacks in a 1590 BS. Purpose built for the upper row of my board to allow shorter cables connecting to the looper. I stole the idea from a Clarinot build (I think, can't find) on here a short while back and it was a lightbulb solution to my problem!

Realized I used a resistor with value printed on the board rather than the correct value listed in the build doc. Was a bit of a pain to replace in a tight spot but all's well. Lots of sounds in this one!  Great project!

All of a sudden, every pedal I own is popping like crazy and some have become microphonic (makes amplified noise when the enclosure is touched/tapped). Tried different power supplies, only one pedal connected at a time including pedals I haven't plugged in for months), different amp, different outlet. Totally stumped!

Anyone ever experience anything like this?

[diagram for the minimalist bypass has some errors]

Possibly the most austere looking pedal build in the history of the forum!
This thing sounds great, was very easy to dial in (amazing to think using a scope per the build doc results in better sound). Compared to vids of the Boss pedal and found it indistinguishable soundwise. This is going on the board, and am eager to do a shootout with the Choral Reef when that comes out!
It was not too difficult to put together, but as with any large, complicated project, thoroughly checking solder joints, correct parts, etc, before finishing goes a long way.
I also found that the diagram for the minimalist bypass has some errors—the description on the following page is correct however, so use that!
Also found it useful to plan out the order of wiring the jacks and switches.
Great project!

I'm having issues with two Tri-Vibe builds. One is a ChiBoy board, the other is a Fuzzdog. Both have switch pop due to DC on the output that I can't seem to track down; one uses relay bypass, one 3pdt. I also get popping when I change vibe modes. Anybody else encounter this with their builds?

Tried various resistors to ground on input and output that lowered the DC, but nothing totally stopped it.

First up is the Alpha Dog, with spiffy new 470R resistors instead of 470k—makes a big difference!
This thing sounds great, and will definitely be living on the board.



Pale Horse
Me: I couldn't believe how stupid it was to use the wrong value for those resistors in the Alpha.
Also me: Hold my beer...
Me: I KNOW I got two LP2950s from Mouser!
Also me: Can't find them anywhere
Me: guess I'll have to order more.
Also me: Ordered
Me, that night: Oh shit, I soldered the 2950 in the BS170 holes!
Desoldered, replaced. Fired up. Nothing. Voltages way off.
Me: I can't believe I used a 7660 instead of 7662!
Also me: Ordered
Parts arrive, replaced. Bingo!
This thing is also going on the board! Really nice overdrive



BYOC Crown Royal on vero (seven pots/four switches!!!) from Tagboard FX, minus booster of the original. It covers a lot of overdrive territory as promised. Originally had the switches and the level pot wired underneath but it was too cumbersome to fit. So break out the parmesan.

So I got the wiring issue solved and fired this thing up. Volume, gain and filter all work but I don't get any clipping! Weird!
I checked voltages and everything is spot on except pin 4 of the 308 (not metal can version) isn't absolutely o volts, same with gate of 5458—both are @4mV.

Any ideas where to look?

So I'm testing the Alpha Dog, and I evidently don't know how the DC jack is wired. If I plug in the power, the LED lights up when I depress the switch. But when I plug into the input jack, the LED cuts out. I'm missing something...

Thanks!

I decided to combine all of the new Tap tempos boards into one box (for better or worse). While the boards are quick and easy to pop, wiring this thing up was a challenge. I off-boarded the T1–T3 pots to be proximate to the individual effects, and in the case of the Wah and Tremolo, off-boarded the volume controls to enable better placement. Also, I couldn't really make it work with stomps for each effect, hence the toggles. This was something of a hard call, but I'll have to live with it, and at this size, it's unlikely to find a spot on my small-ish live board anyway. I'll probably get some use out of it in the studio, though. Labels to follow...

USA Custom Tele in lightweight mahogany with maple top. The finish is from Starr Guitars in Florida; pups are Harmonic Design; two vols and a tone w/coil tap.




The genesis of this one was wanting the tele scale but the mahogany/rosewood/HB combo for a darker sound. It's the twin of a swamp ash/maple neck/single coil tele I did in 2013 in terms of neck dimensions, so it was very comfortable to play right from the git go. I took a flyer on the pickups and am really happy with them—very articulate and no mudddiness.

I finished the Lab Series L-5 preamp pedal from Aion. Fortunately it fired right up! There's a lot of tone shaping possible with this puppy. I had both a Lab Series L-5 and a Pearce preamp (same lineage) back in the day, so I was really excited to see this project—I'm not disappointed. I still haven't gone through the process of calibrating the distortion; the comp trim is set at minimum and sounds great. Labels are forthcoming!

Unidentified Flanging Object on the board with no name by Alan P. This was a lot of fun to build, and once I figured out my Time switch wiring mistake, it sprang right to life. I decided to go simple with this one so the Mono/Stereo switch doesn't actually do anything and I couldn't be bothered to desolder it.

Not sure how to approach labels since the knobs are pretty close together.

Kudos on the board design and execution—highly recommended!

Okay, it's actually 10 1/2, but truth in advertising gives way to lewd references every time in my book. This is all of the G boards except the Sawse (no vactrols around). Instead I subbed a Kraken, and added a Fatpants, up front along with a buffer on vero (I forget which). It all went together pretty easily and I'm digging the sounds of these circuits a lot. I'll eventually get around to labeling when I have a month to spare .

The order is: buffer, Fatpants, Moar, Stank, Kraken, FourOne, Glam, Stutr, Wigl, Stutr, imik, Ping.