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Hi,

Building a junction box for my pedal board, which has buffers, a passive bypass (connects input straight to output):

Guitar --> | Buffer -> True bypass looper -> Buffer | --> Amp

Am using Klon buffer circuits.

Am wanting to add a tuner out split off the input. Am I best doing that pre or post buffer, or does it not matter?

Also, i'm wanting to add a mute switch on the output, before the amp. I believe I just connect the signal to ground? - is it fine to do that in front of the amp and leave it sat like that?

Thanks!

Ian

Hi,

I was wondering what the changes are in the 2014 editions of Green Bean, Kingslayer and Deadringer 2?

Has it been posted any where (have been searching but not found anything yet), or is madbean able to comment?

The SunKing II is mainly just a re-production with a different layout but not really any changes to the circuit, right?

PS: The DeadRinger 2 is listed on the Projects page as coming 04.05, but isn't shown in the list at the very top of the page.

Thanks,

Ian

222000 - 15% off, valid until 9th June!

Just finished a Silverfox (Barber LTD) build and am testing it before boxing.

It sounds good, but it seems to be quite bright - i've got the tone control on minimum and it's not bad, but if there was more turn, i'd still want to take it down a bit further.

Is that normal for the Silver, or have I got something wrong somewhere?

Also, and possibly related?, but my presence trim pot doesn't seem to make any difference at all.
(the mid and bass ones do have a noticeable difference but I ended up leaving them in the centre).

I measured the resistance on it and it's 11k at full turn, but I can't hear any difference at all - is it subtle or do I have a problem?

Thanks,

Ian

I've recently bought a few batches of 1N34A's on eBay, and most of them when they arrived look more like 1N4148's (small and orange) rather than big glass and see through like 1N34A's.

(I believe from some Googling they are DO-35 package instead of DO-7?)

What's the score with those? - are they fakes and not really 1N34A's? - or are there different versions?

Do they work/sound the same?

I've not measured the forward voltage of them yet - i'll have to do that.

Thanks,

Ian

Hi,

I've built up a Serendipity on an etched board.

Finished building the board and connected it up to my test rig to test it.

I'm getting sound - and in fact at low levels, it seems to work ok and all of the knobs seem to do as they should.

However, as soon as there is any level, from playing hard or a boost before it, I get a horrible crackle/clipping sound on top of the real sound, if that makes sense.

I've had a quick look around for shorts and I can't see anything, and it does seem to be working, so i'm wondering if it's a faulty component (capacitor??).

Anyone seen this before or have any ideas to narrow down where the problem might be?

Thanks,

Ian

Hi,

I built up a Tubescreamer on a custom PCB based on the open source / Green Bean schematic.

It has a TS-808 / TS-9 switch but none of the other mods - I just soldered links on the board as required.

It seems to work and sound fine, however unity volume with the Gain & Tone at noon is between 2 and 3 o'clock.

I seem to get plenty of boost between there and fully turned, but I just wondered if that was normal? - it seems very high. I'm used to unity being more around 11-12 o'clock on other pedals.

Thanks,

Ian

I might be a little crazy, but i'm on a bit of a crazy idea.

I'm thinking of taking a Green Bean (TS808) circuit/board and adding some things from the DeadRinger (Fulldrive 2).

This is what i'm thinking.

- Remove/ignore the FAT/COMP/BRIGHT mods on the Green Bean and build it as a stock TS808.

- Take the clipping setup from the DeadRinger, with a switch to go between diodes and Mosfet

- For the above switch, use an on/off/on, which I believe will give Comp Cut mode in the middle position as it will remove the clipping (right?)

- Have another switch to switch between standard and flat mids (FM) mode.

It's that latter point I can't quite work out how to do. It obviously connects the between somewhere around the drive/clipping stuff across to the output of the 2nd op-amp and probably involves R13 and C9, but I can't work out how that would fit to the Tubescreamer circuit as the Fulldrive one has the boost stuff mixed in at that point.

Anyone able to help?

Thanks,

Ian

Hi,

What wire do people use for wiring the offboard stuff (pots, jacks, switches, power)?

Will the thickness affect the sound at all?

I prefer to use stranded as solid snaps too easily when you are moving around trying to solder & test, but then I got some 22AWG stranded from Tayda and it doesn't fit through the holes on the etched boards i've been building.

I've got a load of cat5, which is solid and snaps very easily, but is nice and thin, and neat as it's twisted together in pairs (although, will that cause a problem?) - but it's very thin....will that affect the sound at all?

Also, do you build them loose so you can test before boxing, or do you fix pots, switches etc in the box and solder wires in place?

Thanks,

Ian

Hi,

I'm just finishing up building a single sided Sunking board someone etched for me.

I've got the switch, dc socket and jacks connected, but not the pots or clipping diodes yet - but I thought i'd fire it up and check the voltages against the ones in the document.

Most of mine are in the same kind of ball park, except the following:

- Instead of 0, I get some mV readings.

- Instead of 18v, i seem to be getting 12v

- I don't seem to get the negative voltages.

Here are all of my readings:

Supply: 8.52v

IC1:
1: 4.26v
2: 4.26v
3: 3.17v
4: 1.6mV
5: 4.26v
6: 4.26v
7: 4.26v
8: 8.53v

IC2:
1: 4.43v
2: 4.28v
3: 4.26v
4: 84mV
5: 4.25v
6: 4.27v
7: 4.11v
8: 12.29v

IC3:
1: 8.53v
2: 2.5v
3: 3mV
4: 2.5mV
5: 83.8mV
6: 3.08v
7: 6.71v
8: 8.51v

Please could someone who understands what they are and should be tell me what's going on?

Any idea what the problem is with the ones which are out?

Will the variance in the others affect the sound in anyway, or is it just down to component tolerance and that my 9v supply seems to be a bit lower than the documented ones?

Thanks!

Ian

Looking for someone who has a Fulldrive 2 Mosfet who would be willing to do me a quick test?

Thanks,

Ian

I've read on a number of forums that the newer Fulldrive 2's, like the Mosfet version were changed to sound brighter.

I'm trying to find out what components were changed (and therefore if it's possible to mod a Deadringer to sound like the older darker ones).

Has anyone done any investigation on this?

Thanks,

Ian

Hi,

I've completed a build of the DeadRinger (Fulldrive 2) - on a board done by Haberdasher (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2038).

The pedal generally seems to work ok, but i'm having a few odd problems and was hoping someone would be able to point me in the right direction to solve them?

- The pedal seems to work ok as long as the power socket isn't touching the metal box - it works when it's dangling loose, but if I put it in to the box, or even touch the box with it, it goes off. I've checked with a multimeter that the box is conducting with ground and not positive and it seems ok.

- The boost isn't working - the LED lights ok, i've checked the wiring and checked with the multimeter that the right contacts are touching on engaged and not, but even with the boost knob on full, the sound/gain doesn't seem to change when engaging boost.

- With the mode switch, I can't hear any difference in the top and middle positions. The bottom position is quieter and has a lot more gain (and conversly when switching to the middle position, it goes louder and has less gain), but then middle to top doesn't seem to make any difference.

How can I check which way round each of the switches are? - i.e how can I work out which is normal and mosfet and which is comp-cut, fm and vintage?

Thanks,

Ian

Hi,

I was wondering how easy it would be (and would i'd need to change) to mod a Deadringer back to the specs of an original, non-mosfet FDII?

I've heard the newer ones are much brighter sounding and a lot of people prefer the older ones - so there was obviously some changes other than adding the mosfet's which are switchable.

Thanks,

Ian

Is the DeadRinger an exact clone of the Fulldrive 2?

i.e what does "based on mean"?

How close does it sound?

I assume it's based on the original FD2? - has anyone cloned the MOSFET version of the FD2? (or is it possible to mod the DeadRinger to clone the MOSFET one)?

Thanks,

Ian