Topics

question about the momentary mods on the switch board:

is there any external indication to let you know if the system is in latching more or momentary mode?

does it remember the settings after a power cycle?

Thanks

T

hi all,

i'm not that familiy with XLRs and balanced signals so this might be a really basic question.

I'm trying to make a simple 3-channel mixer that can take XLR balanced and 1/4" unbalanced signals, mix them, and then output a balanced XLR signal .

The output side is no problem - i found an active DI circuit that i can use to convert the mixer output to a balanced signal.

The problem is on the input side.  I'm not sure how to get the XLR signal into the AMZ mixer circuit "properly".  Do i just take the ground and pin 3 of the XLR and use those or is there something else that i need to do to the signal first before it goes into the mixer?

Thanks

T

I built a ebmm 3band  bass preamp in a pedal but I'm just barely getting unity gain with the volume at max - which is expected since this was originally an onboard preamp.

I would like to get more than unity gain from this circuit but I'm not that familiar with this topology.  Would I add a feedback resistor between pins 1 and 2 to get more gain?

Thanks

It's that time where I need to look for a new pc.  Would a tablet windows pc be able to run something like eagle and inkscape?  I'd love to be able to work on layouts while I ride the train to work lol.

Also would a tablet pc be strong enough for reaper and video editing?

So i have dozens and dozens of projects saved in my mouser account.  All of them with Koa-Speer 1% metal film resistors because it was a decent balance between quality and cost.

I log in today to make an order and for whatever reason the cost of all Koa-Speer resistors has almost doubled!  they were around 17 cents in singles and now they're up around  32 cents each!

not impressed.

edit.

fixed the problem as i was posting IC voltages *embarrassed*

nothing to see here..

move along.

Is there any way to get my hands on a Zero Point Mini PCB?

Just a general question about JFETs as used in amp sim pedals like the chunk chunk.

i'll use the gausmarkov dr boogey schematic for reference here:



this question pertains to R2 (1k8) and C1 (1u) (and i guess to an extent R6 & C6 and R12 & C9)

What/how do these values affect the gain coming out of q1?    I've fooled around with adjusting C1 and i see that when i drop this value the amount of gain/saturation drops, but i'm not sure why it's doing this?  do these only have an impact on the overall gain of Q1?

I've seen the Subdecay Starlight flanger which is supposed to be a modified MXR 117 flanger, but he has switchable LFO modes on it.  I was wondering how to go about modding the Collosalus to have these different LFO shapes?

Thanks

I'm doing an amp sim build for a friend who has the intention of using a 12v power supply with it (not negotiable)

I usually put a voltage doubler in my amp sims to run it at 18v but with his 12v supply he's going to by flirting with the voltage limit on some of my caps and I don't want to go to 35v caps.

Can I use a road rage and replace the 15 v regulator with an 18v reg and use an lt1054 charge pump and get away with it? 

Thanks!

Tim

so this week i did my first build using trannies other than j201/etc

i noticed that when the metal case of the transistor touched the inside of the enclosure all hell broke loose. i wrapped the cans up with some electrical tape and everything was good.

i know it's dangerous to assume, but i would guess that the metal case of the transistors should be grounded by default?  am i out to lunch?

Hey all. I'm building a chunk chunk for a friend and I am having a strange issue.

I cannot get q3 to bias properly. It always strays around 8.95-9v no matter what. Q1, 2, and 4 bias fine.

I've tried replacing the jfet. I've tried a new trimmer. I've replaced c11 and c12. I've re flowed the solder joints of components in the area. I've checked for solder bridges but I can't seem to find the smoking gun.

Does anyone have any suggestions got what to try?

Thanks

Tim

i used to be able to find large (4"x8", 5"x10", etc) veroboard brand veroboard on ebay but they seem to have all disappeared... even veroboard.com seems fishy.

did they go bankrupt?

Can anyone here suggest a source for at least 4" x 8" 0.1" pitch vero?

So I was sitting at work thinking about pedals this morning and had an idea...

I want to move my pedals so they live on a shelf in my rack and have a single footswitch that can turn the pedals on or off.. I'm thinking something like the footswitch that comes with mesa boogie amps... silent momentary switches with LEDs. and then have a super long cable from the footswitch to the rack.

I'm trying to firgure out what would be the best way to do this...

Obviously I don't want to run signal wires from each pedal to the footswitch.. that would be ridiculous.

So i'm guessing that I'll need to use a relay switching system on the footswitch and phantom power for the LEDs and relays, but I'm not sure how to go from a SPST remote F/S to switching an effect on or off..    Would i replace the traditional 3PDT switches on the stomp pedal with a soft touch relay board and then just run the power and grounds out to the remote F/S?

Ideally I'd like to use a standard midi cable (7 pin, i think?, power, ground, and then 5 signal lines to control up to 5 remote pedals)

comments? suggestions? help?

So I'm working on a distortion pedal and I'm having a bit of a dilemma on toggle switches vs stomp switches.

there are 3 functions:  Bypass, Boost, and Crunch/Lead

a 1590BB isn't large enough to accommodate three stomp switches and still be functional (IMHO) even if it is in landscape orientation. My preference is to keep it in a BB enclosure rather than going to a larger 1790NS

There is room for 2 stomp switches and a toggle.

So the question is, which function gets assigned to the toggle switch; boost or Crunch/Lead?

what do you find to be more useful in a stomp switch?

As fate would have it, all of my ink jet ink cartridges ran out at the same time and a double whammy - I'm out of all of my waterslide paper.. Clear and transparent.

Imagine my shock when I went to my local store only to find out that my ink cartridges are no longer stocked. Poked around a bit online and found that for like $20 more than a full refill kit I can buy a brand new printer.

So..... My current printer is an hp c5100 all in one. It does the job... I don't really have a reason to upgrade other than I can for only a few bucks more.

Any suggestions or recommendations for a new ink jet?  Also, does anyone recommend switching to a laser printer for colour waterslide decals or should I stick with ink jet?  The pre application of clear before applying the waterslide is getting old, but I'll suck it up if I means I get significantly better artwork.

Comments?

Thanks

Not sure if this is how it's supposed to work, but I find that the echoes seem to have a noticeable amount of hiss in the background. Is this normal?

Just wondering where you guys source your 1590b and bb and 125b enclosures?  I'm sick of ordering them from the US and paying thru the nose for shipping.

Prepainted ones would be nice, too.

All,

Just finished building my first kingslayer 2

The pcb mount dual gang is great, same with the simplified stomp switch wiring.

But

I ran into an issue:  when I roll the gain down to 0, there is suddenly a very large amount of rfi noise. Doesn't matter what the other controls or switches are set to. And it's there until the gain knob is rotated about 10-15 degrees and then abruptly stops.

Does this sound like a bad pot, or is there something else afoot?

Was browsing the zero point mini BOM and saw this listed. A check on mouser came up negative.

Can I just use a simple non polar film cap instead?