Messages

Hi,

Would someone please post the voltages for the 12ax7 pins 1, 3 and 6 when the bias pot is full CW?

Much appreciated

Add a Fat Switch by placing a cap in parallel with C5 (10nf) via a toggle switch

Between 2.2nf and 10nf to taste.

Or just increase the value of C5 for a little more oomph.

Yeah, maybe "thin" wasn't the best choice of words, but I ended bypassing the buffer and bumping up C5 to 20nf (2x10nf) and it "thickened" up just enough. C5 is probably a good place for a fat switch mod.

Sounds really good with single coils, however with the Drive cranked I need to roll back the guitar volume a tad with humbuckers. Maybe the bias pot will help here, have to check that out again tonight. 

I may also try increasing R2 and/or R6. Hopefully I can get a good compromise for singles and humbuckers.

Hey leftwing73, very nice.

How does it sound? I built my own DIY version, with the single tone control and an opamp buffer rather than the jfet.

I'm also running the tube at 40V rather than the +/- 12v.

Mike sounds a bit thin. The bias cotrol darkens things up but at the same time makes it sound a bit woofy. I prefer the bias turned down.

Thinking of trying the other tone control and maybe bypassing the buffer.

Curious how yours sounds

 Comment deleted 

Hey Zombie,
The Quadrafuzz was like nothing else at the time. I don't know how to best describe it, but it's like having full on saturation and sustain with single notes, and more of a cleaner crunch-like distortion with chords. And the tone shaping capabilities are insane.

I think VFE has something similar. Everything Peter has put out has been awesome, so I'm guessing his version of the multiband distortion is a more modern approach and probably sounds great.

I thought of building one a while back, maybe I will when I get some down time.   

Hey Gordo, let me know if you'd like to borrow the Quadrafuzz.
Just cover the shipping and I'll send it to you to check out.   

Thanks guys.

I've built and posted a pedal version layout for the Quadrafuzz which includes some Mark Hammer suggestions from way back.

Original 4136 op amps
http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/Quadrafuzz-Craig-Anderton-RC4136-version-td16032.html

TL074 version
http://guitar-fx-layouts.238.s1.nabble.com/Craig-Anderton-Quadrafuzz-TL074-version-with-mods-td24730.html

I still have a completed 4136 version if interested.

So while reading through the build doc for the Archibald, I remembered I had a Craig Anderton Stack in a Box PCB from way back in the day, which for whatever reason ended up in the "some day I'll have to modify this" box.

Thanks to madbean, 25 years later and that day has finally arrived 

I successfully stripped down and repurposed the circa '93 pcb.  Luckily, only damaged/repaired a couple solder pads and was able to juggle things around to keep all but 1 component onboard.

The original SIAB 42v tube plate voltage supply was accomplished with a 12v AC supply and a CD4049 used as a tripling "charge pump". Using the same 25 year old Radio Shack 6-0-6 450ma transformer and increasing the filtering, I was able to get +48v out of the 4049.

Built the Archibald with the EQ, Bias, and Output buffer only I used the available opamp as the buffer rather than adding the jfet.
I also converted the tube portion of the circuit for use with the +48v DC supply, rather than the Archibald's dual +/- supply. I do have the +/- 15v supply for the opamps though.

Didn't get play it very long, but sounded promising. 

I'm restoring an old Webcor power amp for a guy who wants to use it as a guitar amp. Hoping this will pair up nicely as a preamp for it.






 

Can you post a picture out of the box? And then in?

Would anybody have the Harbinger Two pcb deminsions handy?

Very cunning usage of the 9mm pots' mounting holes

Thank you sir!

I usually work with stripboard layouts, and drill extra holes to route the wires through. The holes make a nice strain relief as I also like to use solid 22 gauge hookup wire.
Haven't had any wires break loose since...and it looks much better too as the wires are all but hidden under the board. (Got the idea from John K's etched builds over at tagboards)

So of course, I couldn't let those nice mounting holes go to waste. Perfect fit . :0)

Not really sure why I didn't wire the power and ground from the component side, must have been a late night...

Thanks for the kind words guys!

Please, tell me more about that DC polarity label.  I haven't seen one done that way before, and I like it.

Thanks EBK!
Sorry, I don't recall where I found that polarity pic, but I'm sure it was from a google search or possibly an online pedal manual.

I do remember I edited it a bit with GIMP to get it looking as is.

That looks fantastic.

Thanks jimilee, you just made my night!

I spray painted the top of the enclose a metallic silver, then printed out a reverse image onto a ink jet compatible transparency, which I then flipped over and placed on top of the enclosure...so the ink is protected.

It looks kinda ghostlike, with a cool silver shimmer. Tough to capture that with my phone camera.

Again FWIW, the hardware and static/friction keeps the transparency in place. When there isn't enough knobs and/or switches to keep it laying flat, I'll put clear packing tape on the edges, lined up with the black frame and folded over the edge about 1/8 inch or so. You can barely see the tape...or maybe I just dont want to :0)

This way if I get bored with the design, or repurpose an enclosure, I can just toss out the transparency and print out something else.