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Resolved! Used the non-madbean wiring diagram for the breakout board and it fired right up!


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Got it wired up with the led going only to the ZP PCB, it turns on when I power it but will not turn off when I click the 3pdt. There is an open ground pad on the 3pdt PCB, do I just need to connect that to any ground point? The two ground pads on the ZP PCB are connected, one is to the negative terminal on my DC jack and the other is going to the cathode of the LED. Also the effect is total noise when I click the 3pdt. I know I've got my grounds screwed up somewhere. Sorry for the noobness of this post.

Was wondering if these two boards are compatible, Do I need to make any connections from the ZP PCB to the 3PDT PCB or can I just wire the LED to ONLY the ZP PCB? I noticed this version doesn't have an L pad or is that the same thing as ground?

Got it! Thanks!

Finishing up this zero point mini build and just wondering which pad on the rate led indicator is the negative, I'm used to seeing the square pad as the positive lead on capacitors but the LED symbol has the flat side of the LED lining up with the round thru hole???

Having a little trouble tracking down these transformers. On mouser there are two listed, 42TM022 which is out of stock, and the 42TM022-RC, is this okay to use or should I keep searching? Smallbear seems to be out of stock as well.

I've had my Mudbunny (Civil War specs, 2014 version) up and running for a few weeks now and really been enjoying it up until yesterday when I noticed it just wasn't sounding quite right. I opened it up and noticed R24 was completely fried. Before I go ahead and replace the 100R resistor I was hoping to understand why this happened. I know one of the updates to this project was the change on D5 from 1n4001 to 1n5817. Should I make that replacement on D5 as well even though I have the 2014 pcb? Any insight is appreciated.

Looks like I forget to order the 56n caps for this board, Looking at the schematic I'm imagining C6 and C8 have some relevant tone shaping character, the closest values I have are 47n and 68n, will either of these work and what kind of impact will this have on the tone?

Thanks!

So I'm in the midst of wiring up the Slow Loris, I noticed there are 2 pads for Ground wires, does it matter which of these gets wired to the 3pdt? Thusly can I ground the remaining wire to one of the jack sleeves?

So, in my infinite wisdom I laid out this project as such:

I failed to realize that I wouldn't have enough clearance to get the lid on with the height of the toggle switch where it is. Do you guys know of any low profile on/on switches that would work so I don't have to drill a new hole and reroute the toggle switch? I'd love to not have to scrap this enclosure.

That'll be my next plan of attack for sure. The more I look at this thing the less I'm suspecting anything is awry on the RM board, especially since I was getting an effected signal with the test probe.

I have the +/- pads connected to a separate DC jack (since my test box is already wired with a DC jack), -9v/G is connected to the Rangemaster -9v/G.

All of this sounds right.

My test box is your standard IN/OUT/PWR/GND (same as the sticky thread test box). Do I connect ground from my test box to ground on the Road Rage, and if so is it the pad next to +9v?

Ok, so are you trying to power your Road Rage board and your test box independently?  I think the best thing to do would be to disconnect the power jack from your Road Rage board for the time being and power the whole thing through the test box.  You're liable to get serious ground loop hum if you power both using separate power supplies.  Also, I wouldn't recommend connecting the Road Rage ground to the the test box ground if you're using two separate power supplies.  Just sounds like a bad idea.

As of right now I'm not getting any voltages on the Rangemaster board.

But here's the real issue.  Take your test box out of the picture.  If you're powering the Road Rage board and it's connected to your Rangemaster board the way you've described and you're not getting any power on the Rangemaster board you have a problem on one or both of those boards or on the connections between them.  Are you getting -9V on the -9V pad on the Road Rage board?  Continuity to ground from the G pad?

Kind of a noob question, but when I go to measure -9v, I just connect the positive meter probe to ground and measure with the negative? Either way I'm not getting anything on the -9v pad. I've also disconnected the separate dc jack I was using and am working off just the test box. I used the test probe on my test box on C2 and got a full effected signal. Feel like I'm getting close here just wondering why the road rage is delivering power to the board.

What board are you using for the Rangemaster?

the previous version.

I'm working on trying to test my Rangemaster build with the road rage. I'm fairly certain I have everything connected properly but let me know if I missed anything. I have the +/- pads connected to a separate DC jack (since my test box is already wired with a DC jack), -9v/G is connected to the Rangemaster -9v/G. My test box is your standard IN/OUT/PWR/GND (same as the sticky thread test box). Do I connect ground from my test box to ground on the Road Rage, and if so is it the pad next to +9v? As of right now I'm not getting any voltages on the Rangemaster board.

Not particularly, mainly just different value components.