Messages

Lectric FX's Countdown Phaser is a reproduction of the A/DA Final Phase™ circuit, vintage 1979, somewhat different from the reissue. It has been designed for true bypass, and uses a charge pump/regulator setup for 15V operation using a standard 9V power supply. All built out and calibrated.

I am very impressed with this 10-stage phaser. Lotsa variety with the settings - and the trim pots are all still in their initial half-way settings. The phasing is just amazing with excellent artifacts of doppler jet swooshing and oddball modulation sweeps. This one was worth getting excited about.

You cannot view this attachment.

You cannot view this attachment.

You cannot view this attachment.

You cannot view this attachment.

How's that microsynth looking?

I've taken a long time with it. Actually, just a week ago I found two mistakes (one critical) in my schematic. I will get the next prototype ordered and built in August. So, maybe September?

I might have shown this already but this is what we're looking at (for the 1790 enclosure). I have to change the bypass I/O to work with the new bypass boards but I think it is otherwise ready now.

You cannot view this attachment.

Hiya Bean! Been a while. Hope all is well with you and yours.

I was searching the web for a "TAU PIPE" PHASER and wound up catching a glimpse of a MadBean "Synthwave" PCB in another forum. It got my curiosity peaked. What can you share about it or where can I lean more about it?

Thanks!

No worries at all Brian. I didn't mean to sound like I was complaining. You had already mentioned, when passing the build notes, that it (the Zombie Fuzz) was never put into real production because of your concern about the faceplate wiring. And TBH, if you moved the wire connection points on the faceplate to a location that doesn't crowd another enclosure drill hole, I think you'd have a better end-product. In fact, the faceplate wire mounting points shouldn't even need to be TTH as the faceplate itself can hide numerous enclosure hole sins and simple solder pads should suffice for attaching the wiring. The faceplate wiring points (or pads) would just need to have their own enclosure drill hole(s) mapped in a location that doesn't conflict with other hardware. Also, I would suggest adding separate wiring points from the PCB to the faceplate. That would make it easier to wire the faceplate instead of cramming the faceplate connection wires in with the bypass LED connections. Just my 2¢

[Zombie Fuzz]

MadBean did a fine job on the Zombie Fuzz - a tweaked Fuzz Factory with some fun additions. The included faceplate has space for a couple of SMD LEDs beneath transparent pots with wiring points dramatically close to the bypass LED. Admittedly, wiring up the faceplate was a challenge - but challenge accepted. With the added toggles, one to bypass a short tone stack and one to change the feedback resistance between the two Ge BJTs, this thing has some real ballz. And tho the build specifies a 1590BS (deeper 1590B) or 125B enclosure, I was able to get it all squoze into a 1590B.

Anyway, enough talk . . . .  on to the build pics . . . .

can you sketch how this is achieved at all ? I cant figure out how you do it without active splitting / buffering.
Just for the record I know how switching jacks work and I still can see how you only need one, too - surely you need one on the output as well as the inpt side for summing to mono / allowing independant use of the circuits?? thanks

The signal of the first circuit simply feeds into the second circuit. By taking the first out to one amp and the second out to a second amp, there is a "pseudo-stereo" (psycho-acoustic) output via the two outs. Both circuits have to be engaged. I never drew up a formal wiring diagram. I just thought of what I wanted it to do and wired it accordingly.

Inserting another signal plug into the second input breaks the feed-thru from the first circuit and creates two separate chorus circuits.

Tho I suppose with another switch one could easily re-route the first input to both chorus circuits instead of having both circuits in series for the stereo.

struggling to understand the first part and want to do something similar with vibrato...

With two chorus circuits, this pedal can be wired for:
1. Mono-In to Mono-Out for the two circuits to work in series.
2. Mono-In to Stereo-Out (individual L/R mono-outs) for parallel operation.
3. Stereo-In (individual L/R mono-ins) to Stereo-Out (individual L/R mono-outs) for parallel operation.
4. Use either circuit by itself.

are all these options present as you have it built? I cant see how....
OR just that you could in theory wire it as any of those? From what I can tell you have it wired so you can have either option (1) or (3). How are you getting option 2? thanks

Yes, all the options are available on this build. Option 2 is achieved by by using the first Input jack, then taking the outs from the two output jacks. Note there is a switching-jack used at the 2nd input.

Cybercow!!  Good to see you back in these parts and a very strong showing here.  Very tasty project and your usual killer enclosure work.

Thanks Gordo. Been busy with a Rockman X100 revival. Developed a working sequential logic stompswitch circuit to cycle thru the MODE and FX options - no more reaching over to a switch by hand. We got some original X100 (rev 10) PCBs and have been hand-populating and building them out as a stompbox. Six of the prototypes are now in the wild and we're working on a v2 with mostly SMD components - except for the BBDs. We've also a v3 in the works to replace the BBDs with a pair of FV-1 DSPs for full stereo FX with a lot more options besides just the original "Chorus, Both & Echo" options.

Between the different X100 planning/building sessions, I squeeze in projects like this one.

Ha! A bad Zener at D2 on SB V3 switching board. I noticed how the chargepump wasn't getting +9v at all - only +5.1v

I pulled the zener and checked the number - 1N4743 - meaning it should have been a 13v Zener. When I checked my stock, I noticed how I had some from Tayda and some from Mouser. So I took one from the Mouser tape and plopped it into D2 and voila! Instant fix. I threw out the 1N4743 diodes from Tayda.

Problem now solved. Thanks and hats off to those who tossed in their 2¢

I've had issues with the 2950 that sound like your symptoms.

I'm using the BOM alternate: LM78L05 in place of the 2950.

Still poking' around . . . .

Here is another measurement you could take to help track it down.

From the SB build doc:
(Pin7 of the PIC is 0v in effect mode, 5v in bypass mode)

However, It sounds to me like you may have a stuck relay

Thanks. I'll check that out.

Bio77 - that shouldn't affect the state of the relay tho. The input and output jacks are ALWAYS shorted together, regardless of the state of Q2. I suspect the relay is misbehaving for one reason or another.

Q2 should be working. At least it tested good in my Peak Atlas DCA75.

The voltages are definitely off. I should (according to the DragonHound and SB 3V build docs) have -4.5v on the negative point and +9v on the positive points between the two PCBs. I only have ~+5.2 volts on the positive rail between PCBs. And the DragonHound board does not have +9v anywhere.

Still poking around.

I think I just solved it. In the SB V3 build doc, I completely overlooked the section regarding the "In the Choral Reef the following exceptions are applied" - where it says R5 & R6 are ONLY used in the "Choral Reef". As I wasn't building a Choral Reef" I ignore that bit.

Goona clip 'em out and see how it behaves. Results to follow . . . .

Did up my first VFE DragonHound with a VFE SB V3 switching board and find that it's ALWAYS in bypass. I pre-measured EVERY component before soldering it into place, so I know the values are all correct.

I know the switching board is working (except I've yet to verify the TQ2-L-5V relay) because the LED indicates whether or not it is bypass or engaged - AND - the dual-mode momentary-on option (tap-tap-hold) works inactivating or deactivating the dual-mode option.

With the unit powered up and engaged or in bypass, the input and output jacks are always shorted together.

I suspect the TQ2-L-5V. But I got them from Mouser. So the reliability of a known good relay is high. I have 9.2v at the SB V3 supply input with ~-4.5v and ~+5v at the - and + points between the two boards.

Any leads, options or something I may have missed?

Dual-Chorus 2 (Mini-Me x2 plus max mods)

With all the known mods available on this pair of Mini-Me circuits, plus an "LFO Sync" mod, this dual chorus is a delightful motion-wave machine. Based originally from the Small Clone, Barry's take on this classic chorus circuit does exceedingly well to capture and deliver a good strong chorus effect. The mods just add to the glory.

With two chorus circuits, this pedal can be wired for:
1. Mono-In to Mono-Out for the two circuits to work in series.
2. Mono-In to Stereo-Out (individual L/R mono-outs) for parallel operation.
3. Stereo-In (individual L/R mono-ins) to Stereo-Out (individual L/R mono-outs) for parallel operation.
4. Use either circuit by itself.

The mods are as a follows:
1. Depth Range extender – swaps out C18 with 3 different cap values. (Reaches into flanger territory.)
2. Rate Range – adds another 2µ2 cap to C21 to cut the Rate (LFO speed) in half.
3. LFO Rate LED – added this LED subterranean (beneath the waterslide) to have a more subtle rate indicator.
4. Independent or synchronized LFO toggle to allow different speeds from each chorus circuit. The switch is a custom-wired 4P2T toggle.

Details of the mods (in schematic form) and gutshot follow . . . .

That looks sharp! 

I watched the video.  I noticed the sweep knob is only active last part of the turn.   I had this in my build.  I'd recommend adding a 2k resistor across legs 2 and 3 to convert the 10kB to a 10kC.  You can do it on the boxed circuit.   

Thanks for that Bio77. I noticed that too when I built it - even before stuffing it. It behaves the same as in the original Colorsound Dipthonizer too, only in reverse. (At least, in the demos I've seen.)