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Messages - mauman

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General Questions / Re: Tonebender
« on: November 24, 2022, 01:03:21 PM »
Hi Tom, it sounds like you're asking about a Tone Bender Mark 1 (rather than Mark 1.5, Mark 2, etc!) and a full kit, not just the circuit board.  If so: if you're in the EU, there's a full kit at  In the UK, there's a silicon (not germanium) transistor kit at . In the US, there's an updated and modified gemanium transistor kit at

Build Reports / Re: Aion FX L5 Build Questions…
« on: November 22, 2022, 08:06:39 PM »
Sorry to hijack the thread with a noob question, but is it possible to wire the aion boards directly to a switch without using the daughter board?
In general, yes.  For some boards, Aion sells a "legacy" version that was designed for 1590B enclosure and doesn't have the daughter board.  You have to dig on Kevin's website but they're there.  For PCBs with daughter boards, you'll need to see what else is on the daughter besides foot switch connections - typically there's an LED current limiting resistor, some power protection/filtering, sometimes other stuff.  You can make a vero or perfboard with these items on it if you need the functionality without the daughter board.  The advantage to that is you can tuck a vero underneath the main PCB and save the space around the foot switch.   

Open Discussion / Re: overdrive pedals low output, non-diy
« on: November 17, 2022, 08:56:15 PM »
Cable testers are set for pass/fail according to some threshold value.  If a cable has a high-resistance open or intermittent short, cable tester may say it's ok but it can cause trouble.

Open Discussion / Re: overdrive pedals low output, non-diy
« on: November 16, 2022, 10:18:39 PM »
All three should go well above unity, +1 to Jimilee's idea, get that tuner out and just go guitar >> 1 pedal >> amp.  Check for bad cables too.

General Questions / Re: TO-5 sockets, cheap/best version
« on: November 14, 2022, 01:27:41 PM »
Here's my favorite, 64 inline for $7.28 which is about 11 cents per pin.  I cut them to make sockets for TO-5, TO-92, caps, DIP8 when I need the center open, etc.  Tin and gold plating, but the best thing is they're low profile and add very little height, sometimes that matters a lot in 1590A or B enclosures.

General Questions / Re: Question about booster in the tube and solid amp
« on: November 08, 2022, 08:15:57 AM »
You are right, tube amps respond differently to high-level inputs than solid state amps, in the same way you hear on the video demos.  Tube amps can give you pleasant overdrive sounds, while most solid state amps just get louder, then create an unpleasant distortion.  I usually test my pedals with both solid state and tube amps, and the results can be quite different.  For example, in addition to the overdrive differences, my tube amp is more sensitive to switching pop noises and charge pump noise than my solid state amp.

Open Discussion / Re: NGP - SP content
« on: November 06, 2022, 07:37:18 PM »
I don't own a Reverend but have played them in music stores, and I liked the bass contour idea.  I'm not sure what values Reverend uses, but I put one on a humbucker lap steel that worked out pretty well, with a C1Meg pot and a 2.2nF cap in parallel.  You might need to tweak either the pot or the cap on yours to get it sounding the way you like it.

Open Discussion / Re: My first real guitar modification journey
« on: November 06, 2022, 03:38:01 PM »
Congratulations!  Nice mods.  I have a Fender Toronado that came with the pickup switch in that upper bout, and I like that placement much better than down by the pickguard like a Tele.

General Questions / Re: SOT23 to TO92 SMD Adapter PCB
« on: November 05, 2022, 11:03:00 PM »
Here's the next step - make it look like a TO-92... Hackaday: When Only A TO92 Will Do.

General Questions / Re: SOT23 to TO92 SMD Adapter PCB
« on: November 02, 2022, 02:13:47 PM »

General Questions / Re: Total Recall substitution questions
« on: November 01, 2022, 07:08:46 AM »
Both of your substitutions are fine.  Here's my reasoning.  The main point for the 240/220 ohm resistor is that it's 1 watt, and you have those.  220R is close enough, it makes a low-pass filter with C42/C43 and protects the regulator.  The 229/240 pF cap is within the specified 5% tolerance (most caps are +/- 20%) and is well above the minimum required to maintain oscillation, which is around 100 pF.

<edit> No need to socket the cap.  If you have an inventory of random parts, you can parallel two or more caps and their values add, so your 229pF + 10 pF in parallel = 239 pF, if you had a 10 pF...   but 229pF is fine for now.   And DO NOT socket the resistor, it's carrying significant current which is why it's 1W, so you need a firmly soldered connection to the PCB.   

General Questions / Re: Florist pop on engage
« on: October 31, 2022, 01:33:39 PM »
No, the value of R1 won't make a difference here.  It's there to discharge capacitor C1 in case the previous pedal's output is offset from ground, and is supposed to help prevent pops.   The 1Meg value is small enough to drain C1, but large enough to not kill your input signal.  There are other causes of popping, here's a great article that should give you some ideas for troubleshooting:

To close the loop on this saga, I received a Mouser order on October 6 that was shipped economy on August 18.  49 days, UPS had it for 48 days, Post Office had it for one.  My final waylaid Mouser order was shipped August 19, and UPS handed it off to US Postal on October 27.  Post office says it should be here Oct 29.  Total 71 days: UPS 69 days, Postal Service 2. 

On the bright side, I'm still receiving, on time, packages that are shipped via the standard UPS method.  It's just the "UPS to USPS" bargain rate that UPS has, apparently, abandoned.  And Mouser stepped up and reshipped all of my delayed orders at no charge, although it was not their fault, so the parts arrived here in time for my builds. 

Congrats!  There's always something new to discover. 

Welcome!  Yes, pictures will be very helpful, thanks.  While you're getting those, does your wiring match the build doc page 9?  I'd suggest to verify your bypass wiring first.
  • The input signal goes from the input jack tip, to the IN hole at the top of the PCB (shown as a green wire, although color doesn't matter!).
  • Then a trace on the PCB carries it around the left edge to the J1 hole at the bottom of the PCB.
  • Another wire (shown as orange) to lugs 4 and 9 of the foot switch.
  • During bypass, lug 9 connects to lug 8, then a blue wire to J2 hole on PCB.
  • A trace on the PCB takes it around the right edge this time, to the OUT hole on the top of the PCB.
  • Blue wire to the tip of the output jack and you're done.
If you have a signal from IN jack tip to OUT jack tip during bypass, then check wiring continuity during the active state.  Click the foot switch. If you have power applied (not necessary for this) the LED should light.
  • Same as steps 1-3 above.
  • When active, foot switch lug 4 connects to lug 5.
  • Green wire from lug 5 to IN hole at bottom of PCB.
  • Trace takes signal to R1 and R2.
Visually check for any solder bridges between each of these wiring holes on the PCB and their neighbors (IN and GND at top of PCB, IN and LED+ at bottom of PCB, etc)

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