Messages

thanks all - I think I'm going to salvage pots and transistors, IC and start afresh with new board, understanding a bit more on what's required and what's not, like the voltage inverter. I'll probably be back...!

Yep, black probe on ground lug of DC jack and red on transistor legs:

Q1 transistor: E 0v  B -0.33v  C -1v
Q2 transistor: E -0.33v  B -1v  C -0.34v

On the base of Q2, I do seem to get fluctuating readings - sometimes 0v, sometimes -1v. ??

Ah, meant to add that yes I noticed the difference. Sorry - Human error is what's changed.

Originally I was placing red probe on DC positive lug and and black on the collector of Q2, which gets 9.76v. After watching video on voltages I put clip onto black probe and then connected other end of clip to ground on pedal (enclosure) and took measurements, which gave readings sent.

Hi Zerro - thanks again for any help. Watched a video on voltages when things aren't working...and said to supply following to anyone trying to help!

DC jack lug 9.42v
9v pad on board 9.42v
IN/OUT pads on board and on footswtich lugs both read 0v (I suspect that's not right?)

IC chip:
Pin1 9.42v
Pin2 5.52v
Pin3 0v
Pin4 -3.38v
Pin5 -9.4v
Pin6 4.64v
Pin7 6.18v
Pin8 9.42v

Q1 transistor: E 0v  B -0.33v  C -1v
Q2 transistor: E -0.33v  B -1v  C -0.34v

thanks, Rich

Ok, will check again for solder bridges... I'm using PNP transistors, as needed as I used the IC part of the circuit - I didn't understand this wasn't required if using NPN.

DC value of Q2 transistor on the collector pin is 9.76v

Thanks Zerro - not sure what you mean control them, but with audio probe signal comes through on R3, but goes quiet (no amp hum) on Fuzz pot or on C2. Does this help?

Hi again - can I ask about the audio probe path? Should you get signal on either side of component or just one side, where you see the track of the pcb? I think the issue is on Q1 collector as that's first point on path that has no signal, but have tried re-soldering but still without signal from looper pedal. I get a signal on the base pin but not emitter or collector, and I see the collector goes to CX4, where there's also no signal. I have transistor sockets - could that be defunct - assume they can't be wrong way round?

I notice that when I put audio probe on Q1 collector pin the signal (amp) noise goes dead, like something is shorting out? Bit stuck on what to do next?

Ah ok, thanks Zerro, that's very helpful as was doing it left to right through whole board.

Figured out getting audio probe up and running through ditto pedal and there's no/scratchy sound at R2 resistor, so will look at re-soldering/replacing that.

thanks again for all pointers!

Hi - yes I used NPN silicon 2N2222A transistors - I used the sockets to allow swapping out and try something else if needing too. I thought the voltage inverter could be added either way, as added option for different transistor types. So having means it set up to only use PNP type? I do have a couple of PNP germanium transistors I could try?

...just replaced 2N2222A transistors with NKT275 PNP and...its working a bit more - I'm getting some fuzz, but very intermittent signal, like nothing, then suddenly spits out fuzz tones, so maybe back to the solder joint and previous comment of using an audio probe. But one big step forward using right type of transistors!

Went through all the solder joints and re-heated and tried a different pair of PNP transistors but similar result. With volume and fuzz on full (and guitar volume on full) I get fuzz effect, but after a few seconds it fades quickly and/or sputters in and out. What might be the issue here - still a dodgy solder joint? Would you get any signal if a component wasn't right? Tired tweaking the internal trim pots.

Just an update with bit more info...

Aion Solaris build pdf attached. I omitted the Body and Input control options. Leaving off Input pot required a jumper between 'input pads', which was done. I was slightly confused on the Body control, as said to omit C1 and use CX2 and CX3 if using it. No need for jumper if not using it - so assumed it meant to include C1 if not using this control.

Checked the voltage on the TC1044 IC pins, and as I understand the schematic, think its ok?
Pin 1: 9.2v
Pin 2: 5.38v
Pin 3: 0v
Pin 4: -3.81v
Pin 5: -9.19v
Pin 6: 4.43v
Pin 7: 5.96v
Pin 8: 9.2v

I tried a different power supply (1Spot CS6 on pedalboard) instead of separate 9v adaptor I used initially to test and it doesn't whine, just crackles when on, but again clean signal comes through amp when footswitch is pressed off. Other than don't test with cheap standard adaptor, does that suggest anything? Back to cold solder somewhere being most likely issue?

thanks!

Thanks all - yes this pcb allows various options, so there are two pots omitted, one requiring jumper wire and couple of components left out and other pot could just be omitted as far as I can tell. I'll add in build pdf later, and add the IC voltages for the charge pump -again that was an option but recommended to do.

Can see from photo about the resistor by the fuzz pot, so will double check or maybe as you suggest go through solder joints.

For the moment - thanks!

Hi all,

Just finished another pedal build (Aion Solaris Fuzz Face), my third one, which in theory was much simpler, but again have an issue with something. Power must be going to the right place, as switch turns on and off, LED lights, but no fuzz effect, just a single tone which increases with rolling volume pot up and down - no tone sound if volume all the way down. turning fuzz and contour up and there's some crackle comes in, but no sound via guitar. Click footswitch, so pedal 'off' and I hear the clean guitar through the amp.

Ground issues are the usual problem with my builds so far, but just wondered if this sounded anything obvious, hearing this single whiny tone with pedal on and no signal from the guitar. Any suggestions of where to look much appreciated. Have attached photo's though probably little help - yes, it's a rats nest of wires.

thanks, Rich

Hi - Just an update on this as had some time yesterday. Removed from enclosure, sanded down inside input jack to remove the paint coating a bit, moved ground wire from pcb to the input jack ground lug and resoldered pin 4 of the IC1 socket - even remembered to remove the IC first!  Then I took new voltage readings, which for interest are as below:

IC1: 1. 8.62v, 2. 8.62v, 3. 7.83v, 4. 0v, 5. 8.45v, 6. 8.48v, 7. 8.42v, 8. 16.94v
IC2: 2. 8.62v, 2. 8.62v, 3. 7.83v, 4. 0v, 5. 8.45v, 6. 8.48v, 7. 8.42v, 8. 16.94v
IC3: 1. 9.23v, 2. 5.84v, 3. 0v, 4. -2.96v, 5. -3.01v, 6. 4.42v, 7. 5.72v, 8. 9.23v

Tested and now both sides working and sounding great! Thanks so much for advice and ideas. Better learning experience when it goes wrong I guess!

Cheers, Rich

Yeah, I did have to bend that out the way but did double check it wasn't touching anything or that the leads were touching. I have since raised it a bit too. Will look at changing the green ground wire from dc jack to ground lug of input jack as suggested. It is wired as per diagram from PCB Mania but willing to try it! Have removed from case now too to check other side of pcb.

Thanks, Rich