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I'd do the following:

Unbox it
Replace C8
Reflow all joints
Test for continuity between R1 and R2, and let us know the results
Post voltages from all pins of the transistors
More pics: top and bottom of the PCB, and close ups of anything you may think is suspect

Before you do anything else, I would pull it out of the box and reflow all the joints. The ones I can see look a bit starved, so you may want to add another touch of solder.

Some questions:

Do you have a digital multimeter?
Is it dead silent when you touch the audio probe to ground?
What charge pump are you using?
What's the code on the part you used for C8?
What transistors did you use and did you make any deviations from the BOM?
Can you post some pics of the underside of the PCB?

Hey TS - Is this one of the boards from my group buy? If so, the charge pump (taking 9V and creating 18V) is already on the board.

No extra boards, unfortunately. I have a few PCB designs that I may offer up for sale this summer of which this may be one...

I don't etch, so I had OSH Park fab up my PCB design of this schematic - sounds great! Here's a look:





Re: the boost section, it does come after the OD. I didn't include it because there are other boosters I like better and wanted to fit mine in a 1590B.

I drew a up a Diablo awhile ago (sans +):



Using my layout as a reference, you could also use the second column of a DPDT to bypass the 9V input of the charge pump.

As someone who builds a fair amount of pedals and has a rotating stock of parts at any given moment, I just wanted to point out that the shopping lists that Madbean put in the new build docs ARE AMAZING. Thanks, Brian!

I build my STM's with a 25kB pot for speed - it spreads out the usable end of the spectrum better (to my ears) than a 100kC pot.

This circuit should give unity volume pretty early in the rotation of the volume pot - between 9:00 and 11:00 depending on the gain setting. Is it too loud with the volume at 9 o'clock? Pics will probably help us solve this one.

I prototyped a layout. Then I remembered I'm not really a Tube Screamer guy.  

Brian, I think this would be a cool addition to the baby boards - the lima bean?

Here's the one I built up. It has a diode switch for funsies:

Sax, was you Youtube compressor in the effects chain and turned on?

Good point!

Did you know the new KLON is SMD based?

Reduction = intensification of unicorn tear influence on tonez! 

Seriously though, has there been any research done comparing through-hole and SMD components in stomp boxes? Considering Bill's comparison demo, I'm hard pressed to make the argument that there's an aural difference. The three Bill demoed sounded more alike than some of my side-by-side comparisons of Klones where I individually measured every component to ensure they were all within a 1% tolerance.

I want to believe that this is fake, both because the message is silly and the orientation is bad (the footswitch way up top, and both input and output on the right?...).

However, just because the text is photoshopped does not mean it's inaccurate. A lot of promo photos are treated this way, where the item is updated with new text, a color is changed, or a part is replaced before a final production model exists for photos. Just look at all the Fender guitar images with strings crossing places they don't belong, etc.

Nice! I'll have to update my project lists in Mouser with some of these.

I've been leaning heavily on the Nichicon UMW and UHC lines for short electros. They have a 5mm tall (but 8mm wide, so it's actually labeled "tubby" in my parts bin) 25v 100uF: UMW1E101MDD

My one and only attempt at perf is what motivated me to learn EAGLE, so...