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Awesome!

Man, you should have told me about needing CV7127s, I'd have been happy to ship you some measured and matched ones

Thanks man! Can't thank you enough for fixing this circuit! my CV7127s arrived today and I had to try them first thing after work:

These are the perfect diodes for this circuit! Where most germaniums lack gain or sound sterile and silicons are too compressed, these really hit the sweet spot!

Now it sounds just like the demos and I can finally box and label it This was one of my most wanted pedals, feels good to have it finished! Thanks again

Thanks for the cap suggestion! I changed C5 to 100pf and now the pedal is actually useable The SS2 side seemed awfully bright before, especially in comparison to the G2, but now they are perfectly balanced.
I have AA113 diodes in there right now and CV7127's on order to try and see if those sound any different. Maybe it's because I only tried it at bedroom volumes, but the pedal does seem to lack gain with AA113's. Silicon diodes sound too muff-like and boomy, so we'll see.

I started that thread and found 4x AA113 to work best in my build.

On another site they recommended AA143, but that one gave my pedal an annoying upper octave sound, same as an AA112.

If you like repro enclosures and are located in the UK, send an email to PigeonFX (http://www.pigeonfx.com/contact.html)
He did some runs of folded steel MKI Tonebender Enclosures in standard black and gold, blue or white, which are really good quality, as well as Big Muff repros.

I got one of the Dirtbabys and a Laserwolf at 10:19. Kept refreshing and placed the order as fast as possible, no time to think

Try and bend the top solder lugs of the pot flat, then it should fit. It's in the build doc on page 9, along with a picture.

http://uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/index.php?cPath=367_43&osCsid=733af7fe1ab4417a176ad0cca4497d5c

Great prices and fast shipping.

The bigger the cushion the deeper the pushin or so I have read....

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand

Man, I have to watch that movie again

So wait, is this like the Maxon OD 820? That has a charge pump (MAX1044 if i'm not mistaken)

The OD820 has a gain pot that blends between clean and clipped signals, more like a Klon than a TS.

thanks, those jumpers are perfect, exactly what I had in mind!

I didn't know there were SIP spdt's; they look really useful for boards with more space.

Hi guys,
I'm planning my SKII build and was wondering if there are switches that would fit on the PCB; I'd like to have all the options coupled with a clean exterior. Maybe there are some mini slide switches that I don't know of?
Thanks
Andre

I think the 4 chip version will make the most sense.

If you already have the 2 chip version designed and verified, maybe a small batch run will sell to folks that have MN3005 chips and then you wouldn't be burdened with keeping an extra SKU in stock.

I have 2 3005s, so the 2 chip version would be my choice. A small run of those would be great. I get the appeal of a 4 chip version, but I don't have access to a scope, so the calibration would be a nightmare.

I build on vero a lot and use one of those track cutters from www.bitsbox.co.uk, really useful.

For placing the cuts I just start from the top row and count the holes to the cut on the layout starting from the left, count the holes starting from the right on the actual flipped board and place the cut. After a bit of practice it's pretty easy and fast, and most of all clean, because my OCD doesn't allow any markings on the component side

Edit: that's interesting Don.  Why would you say the battery makes a difference?  Does a zinc carbon have a lower voltage (8.4v)?

I don't know, I just read it somewhere, probably on Analogman, and they are 1€ for 2, so why not
What I do know is that they are pretty inconsistent, most of those 9V blocks have in fact 10,5V or more when they are fresh.

Compared to the ~10V battery, the tone with a regulated 9V supply and now three different MKIII types I built is significantly harsher and stiffer, and I can't dial in a warm sound at all. It also has some nasal mids at extreme gain settings, the battery is perfect with none of those problems.

I think that should work, but I wouldn't take it that far. The MKIII/IV circuit is the most forgiving and uncomplicated Tonebender variation, and sounds the same with a wide range of transistor gains/leakages. So as long as it works and sounds good, it should be ok.

Edit: One important thing that I forgot: In my experience, the MKIII sounds infinitely better with a battery (Zinc-carbon) when compared to a power supply.