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Forgot to post this when it was done, here is the Sunking with a fetzer-based boost. The boost is after the sk to give it even more volume. Yellow led for the sk and blue for the boost. Powdercoat is transparent gold ppp enclosure. Very nice combination.
Box:

Guts:

You could do a phase 90 vibe in a wah shell, its not the same but its close

Basically its like a dirty-ish stuck wah effect(you can set it to sound like "money for nothin") but the thing has a HUGE range of wah, from very low to very high.
^^Les Claypool owns one if that helps

If its a digital delay you wont have anything to worry about, an analog delay might take a while to build. However, someone built the analog delay at byoc and mentioned it was their first build and it worked perfectly fine

The byoc comp is based on the dyna/ross and also has a blend knob if you want to see how theirs looks:
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/211/5knobschematic.gif

But there are some gutshots here, perhaps madbean can decode AG's post on the second page?
http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=50&hilit=tone+press

Heres my pedals, built a few more since this. Everything on the board is diy.

Top from right to left:whammy iv, crybaby 535q wah, box of metal, danelectro tuner, behringer uo300, boss rc-2, and modded metal zone.
Top row of the board right to left: snow white into causality 4 phaser, atoner, tap tempo tremolo, 7k phaser fleur, stage 3.
Bottom- sliqfuzz(1kf), 7of9 phase 90 vibe, byoc analog delay, some persons stage 3 that needs to be picked up, and the byoc esv fuzz(germ). next to that is a dual tap box i made for the rc-2

^I dont know if its easy since it makes a tight fit, but it can be done
http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4562&hilit=aquaboy+125b+pics&start=260

The fuzz face sino pair smallbear has worked fine for my builds. Actually the first five pairs will work(They are all fuzz face pnp sets) differences will be very subtle if any in this circuit.
Most people use 4.7k resistors for their leds, if you go down to 1k the led will be brighter and draw more current(But if its dark you might not be able to see the knobs because the light is so blinding which can be a bad thing) and if you go up to 10k the led will be dimmer and draw less current(longer battery life.)

do you have a resistor you could replace the pot with to see if that is the problem? have lug one connect to one side and lugs 2/3 to the other side to simulate the pot being maxed out

Not sure if he will design a board for you, but if there is a pcb design posted somewhere you can contact him to etch you the pcb I believe.

Do you have a signal tester? If not you can make one with an old jack or cable, it lets you find where the signal drops/dies out.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Debugging

Can you try to put c10 back in and use the leads of the cap(or bare wire) to jumper the connection? It might be the problem.

You can use heat shrink or electric tape to provide some stress relief, I myself have never insulated a jack and have never had any problems with my pedals. If part of the jack touches the enclosure when the lid is on then you might want to use something but other than that I wouldnt be too worried