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Messages - jimijam

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Open Discussion / home recording advice. monitors
« on: April 10, 2014, 02:08:13 PM »
I finally got a midi interface (m-audio mobile pre) so now  can start recording. I'll be using amplitube, gtr3, guitar rg, and an axe-fx for my guitar and bas tones. superior drummer for drum tracks. I have pro tools set up at the moment although I think I will change to something else. many recomendations for ableton live. but what I want to know is what would be a good monitor for playback. I am totally ignorant of what I need to look for. any help would be appreciated

Open Discussion / Re: NDMMD
« on: April 09, 2014, 02:05:06 PM »
how much for one of those? I need a new one. I like the sound of auto ranger

Open Discussion / Re: My NAD!!!!
« on: April 04, 2014, 06:40:47 PM »
     Egnater makes fantastic stuff. I got one of the m4 modular preamps when he did a limited hand-built reissue run last year.Fantastic peice of gear.
     How is the headroom on the 15 watt tweaker. I have been tryng to decide between this and the 40 watt. you can't beat the price. and they can be ridiculously cheap on some used ones. 
     I would love to go to his amp building seminar in detroit that is coming up. I think it's gonna be a 50watt plexi ths go around.

Open Discussion / Re: Partscaster advice
« on: April 03, 2014, 12:22:23 PM »
btw I have a couple guenuine fender tremolo bridges in the for sale section and a used mexican 50's body (surf green) both of with I'd let go for cheap. pm if interested.

Open Discussion / Re: Partscaster advice
« on: April 03, 2014, 12:19:34 PM »

I never EVER want to sand a guitar body down again.

If you use a heat gun. the paint scrapes right off and usually leaves the sealer. very minimal sanding and you have a body ready to respray

Open Discussion / Re: Partscaster advice
« on: April 03, 2014, 09:08:31 AM »
A warmoth strat is gonna cost around $700 to $900 if you use decent new pickups and hardware.   I doubt you could beat the price of a new mex strat, and very good condition mexi strats, with upgraded pickups and hardware can be had for way less if you shop wisely. This is the route i'd take.
    you could find a decent playing strat and you could swap parts out as you go or have work done. like having the frets expertly finished and a bone nut installed...locking tuners. upgraded trem bridge or saddles. And PICKUPS! the pickups will have hand's down the biggest effect on tone. And  finding the right ones can be a lifetime pursuit. I just installed some bare knuckle '63 venneer single coils in my mjt relic and they have been the best gear purchase I've ever made. you may have to compromise a bit at first but you can take your time to get exactly what you want without bankrupting yourself doing it. and with a lot of research you can learn how to build a strat that smokes just about anything off the shelf.

Build Reports / Re: I built a pedal!!
« on: March 25, 2014, 08:48:00 PM »
fruit stripes. best chewing gum ever.

Build Reports / Re: New Paint Fail....
« on: March 25, 2014, 08:45:16 PM »
i'd paint it black rough it up and then shoot the "anodize' color. it would be near impossible to sand off the black without taking the color with it.

Build Reports / Re: New Paint Fail....
« on: March 25, 2014, 05:45:13 PM »
I have tried those. they are very transparent and intended to be sprayed over their metallic base color. I bet spraying them over a deep charcoal grey would work more like you intended...or they would eat the base coat leaving a disgusting wrinkled mess.

Open Discussion / Re: DIY Tuner possibility?
« on: February 22, 2014, 07:13:48 AM »
the korg pitchblack poly is crazy accurate and has the greatest display i've seen on a pedal tuner

Build Reports / Re: Mutron Flanger
« on: February 21, 2014, 01:31:00 PM »
is there a project for this that someone put together? I'd like to check this out for a future build? where can I find the build info?

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: barber style guts?
« on: February 21, 2014, 01:25:36 PM »
He uses bus wire, too, for jack and board connections? I was told by someone that this is bad mechanically.
It could be a problem if the jacks loosen. then there is no strain relief on the solder joints and plugging and unplugging your cables will eventually cause your solder joints to fail and possibly damage the pads for those connections. if you intend to keep with the bus wire. make sure the nuts are tightened well and use a lockwasher and or locktight to insure that they wont loosen over time.

Build Reports / Re: DIY Pedalboard and Palmer PWT12
« on: February 16, 2014, 09:50:11 AM »
I like the plate with the strain relief holes for running your cables through. i have busted a ton of plugs by accidentally tugging on them while they are plugged in. the holes look big enough for 2/3 cables plus a cable tie to fasten them to the plate. good solution.

Open Discussion / Re: what are you guys listening to at the moment?
« on: February 13, 2014, 11:30:38 PM »
jerry reed and chet atkins
I can thank my dad for all the Chet Atkins exposure when I was younger. I loved the stuff he did with Mark Knopfler. I like when Chet talks and carries conversation when playing. He makes everything sound so casual.

right...they can play the dogshit out of their music but it never seems forced or showy. total mastery. lenny breau is like that too

Open Discussion / Re: wet sanding spray painted enclosure: sanding marks?
« on: February 12, 2014, 09:14:36 AM »
no there won't but you should probably let the paint harden for a while before sanding. I like to let mine sit for a few weeks till the "gummyness" is gone. if when you wet sand you get little nuggets of paint rolling around under your paper if is still too soft for sanding... when i paint I like to lightly wet sand (with a small corian sanding block) the whole enclosure to level the finish before applyng clear.
I store my sanding paper soaking in a tub of water all the time. soaking your paper helps prevent "loading" and it will last a long long time.

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