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How strong is the enclosure? Think it will hold up to a fair amount of use? Always wondered about those boxes.

Built this up last night. Build went quick and easy. Wiring could be neater, but it's for me, so I didn't worry about it too much.

Anyway... it's a pedal enclosures box, which I'm a big fan of, and the paint/art was a short run done for another forum I'm on. I was lucky to get 3 of these boxes, and this is the first I've built up.

The Ghost's eye flash in time with the modulation.

Still needs a bit of tweaking (posted some questions about it in the "general" section"), but it has the potential of being a great pedal.

- greg

Built one of these up last night. While I do like it, it could still use some tweaking. Some questions I ran into are below. Perhaps Brian, or anyone else can chime in.

In the build document, it mentions socketing R11/12 for tweaking. It also mentions the value of these resistors is 2K2. It's actually R16 and R17 that are the 2K2 resistors. Brians build picture gutshot also shows that 16 and 17 are socketed, and not 11 and 12 as mentioned in the notes. This is an error, and it should be R16/17, correct?

I used a second switch for vibe/trem. When switching from vibe to trem, it gets quiet for a second or two, and then returns to full volume. Anything I can do about this, or should this switch be better left to a toggle, and not for switching on the fly?

Thanks! - greg

Yes, the BOM is correct. For caps in the signal path I used poly or metal film. For supply filtering, such as C6 and C7, I use cheap multi-layer ceramics. These are the two different package drawings. It's not spelled out in the doc as it is not essential necessarily.

There are a couple of 1uF's where I used the MLC caps, but that was mostly due to package size (you see the one right by the DC jack at the top).

Thanks. I had made that assumption on the ceramics, but wasn't sure about the others. When I see that many of the same part in a row on a BOM, I always want to make sure.

So the C3,4,5 you have in your pic (last page of build doc.) - those are .1uf? they really look like the 1uf film caps I use.

Thanks again for the info. Looking forward to finishing this one up.

-greg

you have C1-9 as .1uf caps, but the graphic shows several different package sizes, and your pic in the build document seems to have 1uf stacked metal caps in 3 of these positions.

Is the BOM correct?

What size is the box?  Looks supercool by the way.

1590BB I believe they call them these days. Thanks!

I can totally see a use for 2 of those in one box, two complete different settings. One could be booomy wooly ass bass and the other side grindy/(maybe glitchy/synthy) tear your face apart and fuzz you up! You could probably dial the fuzz down and use one side for a sort of tone shaping.
If you can't tell I'm really into this build...

You got it. I used it at a rehearsal, and had one side trebley and glitchy, and the other side as bass nastiness. Worked out well. It's a loud circuit. unity gain is at about 9 o'clock! I'm glad to have 2 dedicated channel switches, and not 1 footswitch that toggles between them as I originally thought about. I never switch fuzz tones mid song, so it's just as easy this way.

3M double sided foam tape. It's really strong. works great.

By excavating from prehistoric amber, do you mean did I build it in my basement from parts removed from neatly organized parts bins? If so - yes! that's exactly what I did. 

thanks!

the battery clip is from mouser. I use a piece of 3M doublesided foam tape on the base of it, and that keeps it held in really well - esp. since the backplate pushes against it a bit when screwed on. Keystone makes them. IIRC, Small Bear carries them as well.

The gold box is from PPP. I believe it's called "18 Karat Gold". It looks pretty much like the Analogman Sunface/Sunlion box color to me.

I wanted a new bass fuzz for awhile, so I got some boards from Brian, and this is what I came up with:





Dual Sabertooth! I don't know why two. Just wanted to. It's kinda fun to have 2 settings. I prob. should have went with a bypass footswitch, and one that toggles between the 2 circuits, as I can't even see turning both on at once. It's nuts.

No stand-off holes in his boards, So I just used thick lead wire, and sort of did a pseudo-board mounted pot kinda thing. Between the pots, and the led, the boards aren't moving.

Brian has not yet uploaded the image of the pcb not? did the final wiring?

?? Nope, It's one of the old files with no PCB image.

looks great!

in regards to sanding LEDS - those green scotchbrite bads work awesome.

They make both clear and white waterslide decal sheets. I find the MicroMark brand to be the best.

If you did the design on a white sheet, and matched the red closely to the enclosure color, it would work out nicely.

I'd make the marks for the knobs on the artwork smaller, just an indicator to where the center of the hole will be - that way if your drilling is slightly off, you wont have the black area showing anywhere around the knob.

Excellent. That would be great - thanks. Hope the move goes smoothly.