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My skills are rough.  And I'm doing it on some funky android app.  But since I recently watched The Silence of the Lambs I had to give it a go.



And some Cheech and Chong.



This one was easier because I only had to do one face.  [emoji1]



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Big FFX and Little FFX Burdette.

I dig this layout, man.  And extra props for doing a double-sided board in Eagle. 

And don't let pickdropper start questioning your sense of adventure when it comes to component package size.  He did that to me once and I ended up with a One Knob Fuzz using 0201 caps and resistors.  Never again.  And that circuit has about as few components as you'll find.  Damn you, Dave

Beautiful all the way around, man.  Knobs, faceplate design, everything.  You killed it!

Looks great, Felix.  Nice PCB layout, too.

Sweet marble job!

Great work, man.  4 knobs and a slider in a 1590A along with your first PCB layout.  Pat yourself on the back.  You killed it.

Outstanding.  I really like how you handled the rotary switches.

Thanks guys.

Wow, SMD!
How do you solder SMD in a nice way like this? I am currently trying to mod SMD pedals, and I do not want to damage it... Do you have some tips about SMD soldering ?

One of the biggest tips I can give for clean soldering is use small diameter solder.  I use .015" for my SMD boards.  It is much easier to control the amount of solder used.  With the standard .031" solder you barely touch it to the iron tip and you already have a solder blob that is bigger than you want for most pad sizes. 

For desoldering I recommend using ChipQuik if you are planning on saving the removed part.  If you're not saving the part you can bridge the pins with molten solder and slide or lift the part off the pcb. 

Before swapping the new part I use solder wick (braid) to clean the pads.  Then I apply a bit of solder to one pad.  Grab the new part with tweezers, heat soldered pad and place the part.  Once part is in place remove the iron.  When the solder solidifies I solder the other pad(s) then go back and touch up the first pad with a bit more solder just to smooth it out.  I use this same method for new PCB's as well.

I find these little SMD guys to be pretty hearty.  I think most people around here would crap if they saw how I treat my parts.  But they can take more abuse than they get credit for.  PCB's, on the other hand, can vary in durability.  That's where something like ChipQuik can be a real help.  Whatever method you use just make sure your solder is molten before trying to remove the part or you will pull up the pad.

Here's a vid I posted of me removing an SO-8 IC without ChipQuik.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=19615.msg190389#msg190389

Hope this helps. 

The Carvin Vintage 16 could fit the bill.  Switches between 16 or 5 watts.  And not much more than I paid for my Blackheart Handsome Devil, which is a great little amp, too (15/7w).  I've added the Bitmo Dapper Devil and Reverb mods to the Handsome Devil.  Adds nice flexibility to it.
http://carvinaudio.com/products/vt16

I've never used the Vintage 16 but I have a Carvin V3M that I like a lot.  I've had it for about 5 trouble-free years.

Thanks for all the kind words, guys.  You're all too nice.  I'd like to mention that 95% of what happens in my designs is all info gathered from the Madbean and BYOC forums and their always-willing-to-help members.  Most of my design and build success is a reflection of these great communities.

Thanks Felix.  It's been a while since I've done a 1590A build.  Feels good to get small again.

Here's a small version of Merlin B's U-Boat.  I originally designed this over a year ago as a single PCB.  Before I ordered PCB's earlier this year I was searching through some info in the TH Customs section and found the original circuit had issues.  Thomas H did a lot of work sorting it out and deserves props for that work.  So thanks to Thomas H and Merlin B for all the great work.

With that all sorted and having to rework my original design I decided that I wanted PCB-mounted pots and switch.  Which meant stacked boards to keep it in a 1590A.  I really dig drolo's stacked PCB designs so I also thank him for the inspiration.  It seemed like an easy thing to do.  But it really wasn't.  But a lot of hours and head-scratching later I came up with this.

Here's a TC Electronics Integrated Preamp that got shrunk down a little bit.

Happy SWD!

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