Messages

Hello everyone! It's been a long time since I've been on the board due to work and life in general. Hope everyone is fine, just wanted to stop in to say hi and to, hopefully, update my signature per Brian's request.

I mainly tinker, reverse engineer, build a pedal for a friend once in a while, and try to answer questions or help others try to figure out issues with their builds when time allows. I'm not affiliated with any groups, organizations, wholesalers or retailers. Just visit the various boards and try to learn something new or build something that peaked my interest.

Take care all! I'll try to drop in when time allows or I retire from work.

Sounds cool Alan!

I didn't have any problems either with signals in the FX loop when the FX loop was off.

I have two expression pedals here and I built a couple of the light jacks as well. That was pretty cool to play around with. If you like, I'll dig out my notes later and let you know what I did to make it or maybe build some and sell them (cheaper than what they sold for a while back. I think someone sold them for $50, way too expensive).

Jim

AlanP, the mono/stereo switch could have been subbed with a short bat toggle instead of the slide switch. That is most likely what I will go with. But I am curious, how did you do the rectangular hole for the slide switch?

The videos were great! Thanks for posting them.

Jim

Great! Let me know how it sounds for you. If you are able, try the time out also ( Spcae(d) and Time Out use two amps for stereo). I don't have a second amp here so I haven't tried it out yet.

Let me know how the FX loop works out too!!

Jim

Alanp, glad you got it up and running on the first try! My first question is, were the build docs easy enough to follow? In other words, were they clear as to what to do? As far as the oscillation, that should occur with the Reaction control either between the 8:30 and 9 o'clock position or the 3:30 and 4o'clock position with the Time on and the Action anywhere except the 12 o'clock position. Did you use a 9 volt or 12 volt supply? Just curious. There is a little more headroom at 12vdc.

The guidelines seemed a bit subjective in terms of listening for oscillation, and I think I got it wrong :-/

I messed with the settings along with what I read from the users manual and concluded this from an original ? Flange I was able to obtain. But it may vary some and , as you stated, could be subjective.

Did you get a chance to play around with it today? Thoughts?

Mike, you're welcome.

Jim

Mike,

I posted some PnPs of the boards in the dropbox (link is in my signature below). These were from png files and are in MS Word 2007 format. You should not have to re-size them, but print it out and check for correct size using a 14 pin dip socket on IC1 in the layout. Also check to be sure the 3P4P rotary switch lines up before using it to make boards. Like I said, you should not have to re-size it but better safe than sorry!

Also, Haberdasher has graciously offered to make boards available for this project. Check with him for pricing.

Hope that helps.

Jim

Alanp, glad you got it up and running on the first try! My first question is, were the build docs easy enough to follow? In other words, were they clear as to what to do? As far as the oscillation, that should occur with the Reaction control either between the 8:30 and 9 o'clock position or the 3:30 and 4o'clock position with the Time on and the Action anywhere except the 12 o'clock position. Did you use a 9 volt or 12 volt supply? Just curious. There is a little more headroom at 12vdc.

The ? Flange user manual is listed in my dropbox folder (link is in my signature below). Download it and that might help you out some with how it is used and what the controls all do. The settings sheet I included in the build docs should help you with your favorite settings, just make extra copies of it.

I currently have no way to make sound samples, so if you have time please do post some samples. I wanted to mount the project in the 1550G before posting a build report, but glad you were able to mount it and post it here.

One minor detail in the build docs is the wires going to "J" and "GND" for the Loopage switch are reversed when looking at the Main/Daughter Board wiring as compared to the Main Board/Switch wiring. Although it is an error (the wires are reversed on one set as opposed to the other) it doesn't really matter since the switch just supplies a ground path for the Loopage LED. The wires can be used either way.

Anyone wanting build docs, I should have them up in a day or two in the dropbox folder. If you don't want to wait, just PM your email address to me and I'll forward a copy to you till they are posted.

Thanks for the credit on it AlanP!! Hope you enjoy it and it lives up to the original!

Jim

Edit: Thanks for the info on the Bourns transformer (LM-NP-1001-B1L)!  Also one suggestion, should you decide to use a different voltage to power it with. There is a pad under the Regen Bias pot. If you drill that out (carefully), this will make it easier for you to make the adjustment when (or if) you change voltages. Just remember the direction you turn the pot will be reversed. The reason for having to adjust it when the supply voltage changes is that it affects the Regen Bias depending on the supply voltage used.

Hey Alan!

Great job. Would have commented earlier, but have had massive computer problems over the last three weeks or so. Finally getting them sorted.

Glad you were able to make use of the template.!

Jim

I too am looking for a job. Been without one for almost four years now. I have two things against me (so says the Employment Security Commission), I'm over fifty and the place I worked for twelve and a half years (was Cabarrus county's largest employer at the time). I was told that, in their mind, the potential employers can't pay what I made at that job. Would very much like to overcome those two items!

Anyway, I wish you the best of luck in your search. I hear Raleigh is a great place! Too far for me to drive and I can't relocate at the moment.

Jim

Congrats!! Hope you have a wonderful life together.

Here is a look at the revised board that now allows you to add the parts to the PCB instead of soldering them to other components like the factory did with whatever mod that was done.



This is how it looked before the board was revised (the R24 mod can't be seen in this photo).


Jim

Glad you're feeling better!

Were they actually bad? How many were bad if they were?

OK, voltages look better. And your LFO should be working as you said the collector of Q1 and Q2 had fluctuating voltage on it (the darlington setup). This basically feeds a fluctuating ground path to the LEDs in the LDRs. What I think is wrong is one or more LDRs have a bad LED.

I am looking at the GGG Phase 100 schematic and board layout. Assuming you have the same board, use your volt meter (negative lead connected to ground, probe with the positive lead) to find the vactrol that has 9v going to the + (anode) side of the LED. Next go to the - (cathode) side of that vactrol with the meter, there should be approximately 8.3v there. Go to the next vactrol and check the - side, there should be approximately 7.6v. Now, go to the - side of the last vactrol, there should be approximately 6.9v or a fluctuating voltage. The first vactrol that gives a 0v reading is the bad one. Replace that vactrol, then if there is still no phasing, do the procedure again to find the next bad vactrol.

If you are getting signal but no phasing, one or more of the vactrols has to be bad.

Let me know how it goes.

Jim

Edit: You may want to check both sides of the LED side of the vactrols in the steps above just to make sure there are no open traces from one vactrol to the next. Also, if you have 9v on both sides of the LED, it is bad (if it shorted). If you find this situation, check the resistor on the emitter of Q1 to see if it is burned or looks brown. I don't think it is bad if you have fluctuating voltage on Q1/Q2 collectors, but worth checking. Then you can decide if you want to replace it too.