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This is genius!

This really, really tasty.
The MKII is the very reason that got me into pedal building... such a great little circuit!
Ever since, and many pedals later, my dream is still to find a proper sloped sandcast enclosure.
I have three OC81D with the right specs that are just waiting for that elusive box...

Congrats!

If anything'll kill diy pedals, it'll be when resistors and caps all go to SMD.

I am pretty sure when SMD will be all people can find, DIYers will embrace it and develop new skills.

Had a chance to look up the doc. I guess I can get on with just the schematic. However does anyone have a copy of the actual build doc?
I'd like to check how to bias the FETs and if there are suggested mods etc.

Thanks again

Thanks!

I found a Laserwolf pcb I forgot I had...
I looked around the archive in the shop section but I seem unable to find the building doc... does anyone have a copy of it?
Cheers

Thanks for your replies guys.

I have an old  ZeroPointSDX2 board I'd like to populate, and there are a couple of "discharge" LEDs underneath the two PT2399  chips. Looking at the schematics and at the PCB tracks in the documentation, it looks like the cathode should go in the square pad. Is that correct?
I hate when I second guess myself :/

Hallo all.

I do have a (minor) concern regarding LEDs anode and cathode conventions.
I used to assume that anodes (the long leg) should go into the square pad, however I have noticed that some designers (TH and Fuzzdog for example) decide otherwise. I understand that this should be the correct way - axial diodes' cathodes usually go in the square pad - so it is only natural that this applies to LEDs too.
I just read a note fro pedalpcb.com where they say they are phasing out the anode-in-the-square design in favour of a more correct approach of cathode-in-the-square.
Where does MB sit with regards to LED installs?
Cheers

To cut short a long story - I spent the last two months fixing my old Yamaha T100.
Turned out it was a bust octocoupler. Since I was at it, I also recapped it and did the infamous "choke mod".
This brought it further in Soldano-land, however its biggest weakness remained un-touched, specially now that I got into pedal-making.
The loop is waaaay too hot for pedals to handle - so it will work on the clean channel but once you switch to the crunch it doesn't sound exactly great...
I understand this is a common issue with the glorious SLO too, so at least these two amps have some similarities 😂
I don't want to fiddle with the amp, I mean - I brought it back from the land of the dead and that was already a big ask form my abilities.
My question is - can I make an external unit that will live on my board and that can tame the signal from the loop? Something that is also able to restore some signal back into the return?
I looked up the units Ceriatone makes (dumbulator sort of thing) but apart from a layout I could not find any schematics

I use bits of the insulation of stranded wire. Works pretty well and I get to recycle those bits of wire too short for other applications (the insulation at least).

Thanks!
I've placed an order for a bag of screws (and some germs, knobs etc. etc. etc.)

Guys, I need your help here.
I have misplaced the bottom plate screws of an old big box Memory Man.
Does anyone know where I can get replacements or, alternatively, what size of machine screws  do I need to source? I am UK based.

Cheers

There's definitely a good amount of markup for the name no doubt.  From what I can tell with other boutique makers, Wood choice is going to be a significant factor in the cost.   Some kind of spray painted basswood won't be too pricy, but a fancy finished highly figured wood body/top will drive the cost up. 

Of course, labor wise it's all fairly close to the same as most/all use CNC machines and finish from there.

Well, a Standard cost $375 in 1959, which is about $3250 in today's money - which is the current price for a standard (it is in Europe at least). One could argue on the quality of the end product - but taking all the "vintagery" and mojo arguments on one side - you get the same instrument for basically the same money.

What's really good is that the heathers winding will always put out 6.3v
Sort of a Variac, but only where it's needed.