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Just confirming that you used a center negative power supply when you powered it up the first time.

If your in the US you could always send it to me to take a look.

Josh

Yup, used a standard "one spot" cen-neg. If you can PM me your address I'll send it over unless there is anything else you can think of I should check first.

Thanks

I don't see any solder bridges on the MP board or 3pdt board, and the wires between the two are going to the right spots. I'm at a loss for what could be wrong

Is there a way to verify if the IC's (TL072, PT2399) are dead with a multimeter? Is the H11F1 also likely damaged?

The ground pad should be 0.0V

Somewhere you have something incorrectly wired or a solder bridge.

You've likely destroyed all the IC's and the regulator as well...

The good thing is they look like they are all socketed 

You're going to have to pull out the board and investigate.

Josh

Oy

Here are some unboxed pics, please let me know if you see anything, either in the wiring or solder connections. If you need different angles/close ups I'd be happy to provide.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QIhSyJ1acsw/UYg-LmJz-WI/AAAAAAAADE0/ypkOcRGmggs/w1347-h898/IMG_4662.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fgXvu9cmuC0/UYg-TFECbWI/AAAAAAAADE8/vwANx7oZxhM/w1347-h898/IMG_4666.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rzs5Ljbga1s/UYg-eyt4fxI/AAAAAAAADFE/H_j2b9xhT8g/w1347-h898/IMG_4668.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--Gt6KY9_4XA/UYg-gVsgdFI/AAAAAAAADFM/MiyB4VBGxw0/w1347-h898/IMG_4669.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1GeeU5ODQ64/UYg-hFUqGsI/AAAAAAAADFU/Xon28PvKG30/w1347-h898/IMG_4671.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6GNCZS2WAxk/UYg-hwbReGI/AAAAAAAADFc/bWI-FsV30mo/w1347-h898/IMG_4675.JPG

What are you reading at the 9V pad and the G pad on the Multiplex board?

Hi Josh,

9V - 9.52
G - 9.46

o_O

Here is a quick youtube vid showing IC3 pins 1-16 in order and how I'm checking the pins

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRt2r4rQF2Q&feature=youtu.be

I still do not think your measuring correctly.

Those measurements are far to consistent with each other.

Josh

I'm using this:
http://img.b2bage.com/photo/product29/517654/big-dt832-digital-multimeter.jpg

Set 3 clicks to the left of off (the 20 setting under the V section with the straight line and 3 dots below it).

Black cable plugged in COM, Red in V(ohm symbol)mA.

Black lead touches the ground solder lug on the DC jack, red lead touches the pin on the IC.

Am I doing anything wrong? 

that setting on the multimeter is for reading alternate currents (AC), and guitar pedals run on direct current (DC). you should set your multimeter in 20 V--- (it's like three dots with a line on top) to do the readings.

thanks

Here are the values at V-20

IC1 (TL072CN)
Pin8: 9.52
Pin7: 8.80-8.81
Pin6: 8.90
Pin5: 9.43
Pin4: 9.40
Pin3: 9.43
Pin2: 8.90
Pin1: 8.74

IC2 (PT2399)
Pin16: 8.95
Pin15: 8.93
Pin14: 8.94
Pin13: 8.95
Pin12: 8.95
Pin11: 8.95
Pin10: 8.95
Pin9: 8.95
Pin8: 8.94
Pin7: 8.94
Pin6: 9.24
Pin5: 8.87
Pin4: 9.40
Pin3: 9.40
Pin2: 9.36
Pin1: 9.38

IC3 (PT2399)
Pin16: 8.95
Pin15: 8.93
Pin14: 8.94
Pin13: 8.95
Pin12: 8.95
Pin11: 8.95
Pin10: 8.95
Pin9: 8.95
Pin8: 8.94
Pin7: 8.94
Pin6: 9.24
Pin5: 8.87
Pin4: 9.40
Pin3: 9.40
Pin2: 9.36-9.37
Pin1: 9.38



And on the modulation daughterboard the TL072 had:
Pin8: 9.52-9.53
Pin7: 8.71
Pin6: 4.56-4.57
Pin5: 3.81
Pin4: 0.00
Pin3: 4.56-4.57
Pin2: 0.00
Pin1: 7.54

And the H11F1 had:
(Pin next to the O notch on the left): 7.91 (Pin1 if using the TL072 numbering)
Pin below that: 8.44 (Pin2 if using the TL072 numbering)
Pin below that: 0.00 (Pin3 if using the TL072 numbering)

Pin Opposite the O notch): 9.23 (Pin8 if using the TL072 numbering)
below that: 8.84 (Pin7 if using the TL072 numbering)
below that: 9.40 (Pin6 if using the TL072 numbering)

Ok, thanks for the links

Everything is still boxed up. I haven't made a audio probe yet.

I have the IC voltage info. I used a DT832, ground at the DC Jack. V~ 200 setting.

IC1 (TL072CN)
Pin8: 20.2
Pin7: 18.2
Pin6: 18.6-18.7
Pin5: 19.8
Pin4: 19.8
Pin3: 19.8
Pin2: 18.6-18.7
Pin1: 18

IC2 (PT2399)
Pin16: 18.7
Pin15: 18.7
Pin14: 18.7
Pin13: 18.7
Pin12: 18.7
Pin11: 18.7
Pin10: 18.7
Pin9: 18.7
Pin8: 18.7
Pin7: 18.7
Pin6: 18.9
Pin5: 18.6
Pin4: 19.8
Pin3: 19.8
Pin2: 19.6
Pin1: 19.7

IC3 (PT2399)
Pin16: 18.7
Pin15: 18.7
Pin14: 18.7
Pin13: 18.7
Pin12: 18.7
Pin11: 18.7
Pin10: 18.7
Pin9: 18.7
Pin8: 18.7
Pin7: 18.7
Pin6: 19
Pin5: 18.5-18.6
Pin4: 19.7-19.8
Pin3: 19.7-19.8
Pin2: 19.6
Pin1: 19.6-19.7



And on the modulation daughterboard the TL072 had:
IC1 (TL072CN)
Pin8: 20.2
Pin7: 18.4
Pin6: 8.8
Pin5: 5.6
Pin4: 0.0
Pin3: 8.8
Pin2: 1.9
Pin1: 15.8

And the H11F1 had:
(Pin next to the O notch on the left): 16.5 (Pin1 if using the TL072 numbering)
Pin below that: 17.3 (Pin2 if using the TL072 numbering)
Pin below that: 0 (Pin3 if using the TL072 numbering)

Pin Opposite the O notch): 19 (Pin8 if using the TL072 numbering)
below that: 18.5 (Pin7 if using the TL072 numbering)
below that: 19.7-19.8 (Pin6 if using the TL072 numbering)

Thanks for the response

The only way I have to test it would be to wire it up before putting it in the enclosure, and I wanted to try and use amounts of wire that wouldn't be too short so in the enclosure it went.  I don't own a breadboard right now if you mean to test it with one of those.

I plugged my in and out correctly if thats what you mean - I do have them backwards from the traditional side on the enclosure right now (doh).

How do I check the voltages of my ICs? I saw this post: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=902.0  and it looks like I use a multimeter and connect to ground and to each pin on the ic's?

I haven't used a audio probe before, I'll check out that link you posted.

It sounds like I'll have to pull it out of the enclosure regardless, once I do I'll take some pics to see if that makes it easier to check with the wiring. If you can explain how best to check the voltages I'd be happy to provide.

Thanks!

Hello!

I finally got around to wiring up a Multiplex I've had populated for a while and ran into some problems.

I'm trying to build one very similar to this one here:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=6567.0

Mine looks like this so far:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VaOqqeHkvsU/UXyqwC-spoI/AAAAAAAADC8/cOHho1C_lMM/w1347-h898/IMG_4482.JPG

What is happening:

-Bypassed, my guitar signal comes through clean

-When I plug power in the modulation LED lights up solid and stays that way. Changing from delay 1, off, or delay 2 does not have any effect.

-When engaged, the power LED comes on.

-At no point to I hear any guitar signal when engaged.

-Engaged I get a very loud constant BZZZZZZ noise, even with the amp volume turned all the way down. This noise can go away if I tilt the enclosure around to various positions. It seems like if I have the enclosure flat, no noise. Once I turn it on its side or flip it over - noise. The noise also seems to be slightly different on its side, and then loudest flipped.

-I held down the "detune" for about 20-30 seconds with no LED light coming on. I haven't calibrated this yet, and the trim is turned fully CCW.


Some errors I made:

-I have the in jack wired to the out on the 3pdt pcb, and the out to the in on the 3pdt pcb.

-I wired the modulation daughterboard ground and power directly to the dc jack. I probably should have wired them to the 3pdt pcb 



I'm guessing something somewhere is touching something it shouldn't be when titled, or perhaps there is a bad connection. I'm pretty confident in my multiplex component soldering, I'm guessing the issue is somewhere in the daughterboard or the other connections to the jacks and so on.

Any suggestions would be most welcome.

Thanks!

Does anyone on the forum offer custom drilling services?

^_^

So lets say R12 input eyelet goes to lug3 of pot, lug 2 --»33nf--»ground and lug1 goes to R12 output outlet.

Some questions:

1) Can ground be the top of the pot or does it need to go to the ground pad on the board?

2) How do I know which of the two pads for R12/13 is in the In and which is the out? Or does it not matter which pad goes to lug 1 & 3?

3) Does it make any difference if R12 or R13 is used? R13 is near the edge of the board and might be easier to pull out.

Thanks!

Here as well: http://diy.musikding.de/index.php/195.html

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately that file format is supported by an application that doesn't run on my operating system (OSX).

I've shoved my Photoshop Templates here.

Sizes are from 1590A (mini) to 1590XX (huge)

The layouts are laid out around Josh's Optotron board (apart from the mini which is a 3PDT). Generally they're quite tight. But it's all layers anyhow so you can move it all around.

Thanks for the links. Is Large the 1590bb? At 100% it looks HUGE. Not sure if it is meant to be 1:1 or not. A layer with dimensions would be super handy (knob 1 is .5 inches from both corners or whatever)

Still trying to figure this out, would be nifty to get a drill template and graphics pattern match

When replacing a resistor with a 3 lug pot what do you connect where? Pin 2 & 3? Does order matter?

It depends on what the application is but to use in in place of R5 on the rub-a-dub you'd connect to the R5 pads to pins 1 and 2 on a potentiometer.

I'd recommend putting a 10k in series with a 10k pot.

Thanks for the info!

Does it matter which connector pads for R5 on the board goes to pin 1 or 2? Likewise for the resistor - can it connect to either pin or should it go to a specific one?