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Ok.  So I'll have 2 diodes on one side and 4 on the other, got it.  And ON-ON switches are good in both spots (as long as I don't want "diode lift")?

Thanks again.   

Hi all.  I populated my Cerulean with King of Tone specs and a little part substitution help from Aion, and now I'm looking for some more advice/expertise. 

I'm using four 1n914s in the first clipping diode spots (D1-D4) but I'm not sure what I should use for the second (D5-D8) spots. 

If I understand the operation of this thing correctly, the clipping switch will toggle between the first set of diodes and the second (or neither if I use a center-off switch).  The other switch (for hard clipping mod) toggles between just one set of diodes or both sets of diodes, one after the other (I think I can use a regular on-on switch here but correct me if I'm wrong). 

So far, so good (I think) but the instructions for the hard clipping mod say to use something in D5-8 with a lower clipping threshold than D1-4 and I have no idea what the threshold of the different combinations shown in the instructions are, nor where to find that information.  I did socket the whole diode section so I can try different things but I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction to start with. 

Thanks for your help.

A wild stab, wick in some superglue and hit it with accelerator...

Is it a press fit in the fork, can the forks be made tighter around the key?
dave

I did try to squeeze the fork together to tighten it but that did nothing.  Any favorite brand of chemicals to glue it?

The key to ordering from Tayda was to use spreadsheets and then meticulously note it down. I used to have an excel spreadsheets with every item that was on offer on Tayda that I could possible use to build pedals, with prices, so that I could create pedal parts list way before ordering them. To be honest, that was sometimes the most fun part anyway. And always order enough parts so you end up having shitloads of spares. Resistors always come in 10's, but caps I also ordered in 10's or 5's. Same with transistors and IC's. Eventually I would up with so many parts, if I forgot the odd part I could always finish it. Which was basically the best thing about ordering from Tayda. Creating stock on the cheap.

Exactly what I do.

Likewise.  This must be right.

I don't know if this is the right place for this question so feel free to move it if necessary.  My P-Bass has a rattling tuner.  The big flat lug (the piece that you turn) is loose in the little fork piece so it rattles.  I was wondering if anyone has a trick to make it stop.  I tried to run some solder around it but my iron is too small to heat that big hunk of metal enough and I don't really want to torch it.  Here's the style of tuner for reference:

I got my first dose New Year's Eve.  My arm was super sore but otherwise no complications.  Second dose was a month later and, again, little to no complications (and less arm pain too).

I had COVID last November.  I think I got it working at the polls on election day.  My symptoms were not too bad.  The lost taste and smell was unpleasant and, months later, I still have weird phantom smells and my taste buds are a little off sometimes but I'm alive and kicking.

I see it's been a while since there was an update here.  Is there a current site that will host my photos and allow me to share with the forum without paying for a subscription?  I had used Imageshack and Photobucket and both stopped doing that.

I'd strongly suspect the push/pull pot switch then.  Most likely it has quit switching and is stuck in the coil split position internally

There doesn't seem to be any difference from one position to the other so I guess that supports what you're suspecting.

More things to look at.  I bought this guitar new, it has worked for years and I haven't modded or replaced anything on it so I would expect the wiring to be correct.  I may have to check the pickups against each other to see if one "died" on me somehow.

Will do.  Thanks for the place to start.

I know there are a lot of bright and experienced people here so I'm hoping you can help me figure out why my pickups aren't acting right.

I have an Epi Les Paul Custom with the coil tap pickups.  In the "Treble" selector position, the pickup sounds nice and full as I expect. In the "Rhythm" position AND the middle position, I have a huge drop off in volume.  I've tried adjusting pickup height but they are SO different, that doesn't do much.  Also, I would think that I should at least hear my nice, full sounding bridge pickup in the middle position.  I'm willing to replace the selector switch or wiring or whatever but I'm not sure where I should start.  Has anyone had experience with something like this?

Thanks guys.  I did find two possible shorts.  One was a jack that might have been contacting the enclosure and the other was the pot that might also have been touching the enclosure.  I applied some electrical tape as insulation and that seemed to cure everything EXCEPT... the LED is still on all the time.  Any ideas there?  I soldered it directly on the Cupcake PCB and used a 3PDT PCB for switch wiring so it seems like it should be a no brainer.

My son and I just finished boxing up a Cupcake.  It was his first pedal and I let him do much of the work.  It worked fine before boxing (I did not have the LED in then).  After boxing (and adding the LED to the PCB), when we plug it in, the LED is permanently on and it won't pass signal in either switch position.  I suspect we have a short somewhere but I'm not sure where. 

I don't see anything contacting the enclosure or any solder bridges.  I tested the 3PDT switch before we put it in (with a 3PDT PCB) and had continuity between rows 1 and 2 in one position and 2 and 3 in the other so I figured it was good but I still suspect it now.  Maybe we fried it soldering it in?  With everything wired up, what should I expect to get with the continuity meter on the switch lugs?

I wonder if that's what my problem is.  I have clear inkjet paper that used to make nice decals but, since we got a new printer, the images come out splotchy.  Despite much trial and error, I have not found a combination of settings that looks good.

I have my doubts too, Jimi.  I may still build it to the original specs anyway.