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Ok, that changes things a bit.

Distortion can be a result of wrong bias somewhere. Probably at the input of the BBD.

My suggestion would be analysing parts of the circuit:
First, remove the mix resistors (If the MN3207 is socketed removing it will break the signal chain there, and no desoldering is necessary).

Let's hear how it sounds without chorus at all (just the clean sound). If there is something wrong with an OpAmp it should be noticiable.

Second, there should be no distortion (when using the audio probe) until you get to the input of the BBD. Chorus do not have feedback, so there should be nothing returning to the begining of the signal chain.

Third would be to remove everything associated with the BBD (clock, BBD, LFO(TL062)) and see if the clean signal works now.

That should give an idea where the Problem is.

Well, that might be a cold solder joint at some ground in the circuit. Every time I have buzz it's either a bad cable or wiring problem.
Your wiring looks exactly like the one in the PDF, but It could present some lose or cold joints.

How are you using the audio probe? Are grounds connected? There should be no noise at R1.
Noise at R1 means noise at the input jack. Any weird noise caused by the circuit should not be present at the input, unless there is a problem with grounding.

Does it work when bypassed? Or is the noise bleeding through even when bypassed?
Can you check continuity between some ground points and some components? For example, one side of R1 should be grounded.

Which build doc are you using? I have the 2019 one, and voltages seem correct for the MN3007.
Voltages on IC2 depend on the type of BBD that you used, though.
Unfortunately, the image is too dark to identify your IC2. Voltages suggest a **3207. Are you using the correct clock (3102)?

Have you tried checking the signal path with an audio probe?

That looks gorgeous!

That looks nice, is that the primer or some sort of hammer paint?

What about jumping r38?
Depth only goes to 90% with it in place.

The second OpAmp max. gain (above the 100n bypass) should be
-R_feedback/R_input=(220k+1M||470k)/220k=-2.45.
If you remove the 470k resistor it goes up to 5.45.

Nice set!

those smd parts give me nightmares, good to know they have this kind of service.

Nice,
really liked the shape knob.
Now I have to check what it does.

Hi,
to understand how it works:
- VCO receives a fixed voltage and outputs a fixed frequency
- As a result the BBD outputs a fixed delay (no flanging)
- The metallic sound has to do with the very fast delay and how it combines with the original signal (basically the flanging is stuck at a position)

So, first thing you can check, if you have an audio probe, is whether there is signal at the output of the BBD. If there is no signal, there is something wrong.

You can then check if the clock pins of the BBD have any clock signal. If there is no voltage at those pins or it is too low there is something wrong with the VCO.

By checking the input of the VCO (pin 3) you can verify which voltage it receives in matrix mode. If this voltage is below a certain value the effect will not work. I played with the VCO in mine by connecting the input directly to a pot connected between ground and 9V and I could adjust the voltage at the input and get different clock frequencies. The matrix mode can sound different depending on the voltage setting.

In the original this is provided by the OpAmp, so if the voltage at the VCO is wrong it might be something with the OpAmp, which inputs are controlled by the matrix switch. So, that is why I suggest looking at the switch first. If the OpAmp is biased wrong there will be a wrong voltage at the VCO, resulting in a wrong clock frequency, and no apparent effect.

Check the voltage at the VCO chip. More specifically Pin 3 of the 4013N.
Also, check the wiring at the switch.
In matrix mode it should ground one of the sides of r30 (15k) and present a constant voltage at pin 10 of the LM324.

Ideally, take pictures of the build and read all IC pin voltages with a multimeter.
That will definitely help us. 

I also use instagram, not as much as in the beginning.
By only posting photos of pedals and guitars I could filter out some content.

Since the advertising every three posts started I tried to train my instagram to only show me guitar related stuff, but every now and then there is some weird shit, like local stuff I am not interested in. Good times when there was no ads on the internet...

When I started I used it a lot to check what was everyone doing and using it as a way of help me having new ideas concerning builds, design and graphics. And surely lots of beautiful guitars to feed the GAS.

Now posting in the "new" rhythm that instagram imposes to make you been seen by more than a couple hundred people is not for this hobby IMHO. I cannot build and finish something new every 5 hours, and I don't like to flood the timeline of other people with a different angle of the same pedal. At my work they call it salami slicing, when you try to make out more content from the same piece.

On instagram I like to play a game called: guess the pedal.
I look at the guts and chips and try to identify which pedal it is. Last of Brian's post had the board with the visible spot for two BBD chips, so I checked for other clues like number of stages and position of the pots. Surely 90% of the posts are fuzz faces, but every now and then there is something unique and interesting, which catches my attention.

Yes, that sounds the case. You can play with the cap and bypass other parts of the circuit to pin 3.
Stick one pin in the socket and solder a wire to the other and voila, you can now connect it anywhere where there is signal, even the input jack. The Cap will protect anything that comes after pin 3.

Ideally you would use a film cap, without polarity. Otherwise I would have to check where the voltage is higher in the circuit...

Wait, what?
If you remove one of the BBDs there should be no or very weak wet signal. The wet signal path is broken. Unless there is some power line that is not correctly decoupled (VB?, which could work as a path for the signal).

Try bypassing the first BBD: With only the second BBD in the socket, put a capacitor in the socket of the first BBD(between pin 7 and pin 3, any value that you have on hand higher than 100nF). That will create a path that jumps over the first BBD.

If the noise is there, it probably enters the circuit before the first BBD stage and the BBD only allows it to pass. If there is no noise, you should check connections around the first BBD, because it might be causing the problem.

With the signal probe, it would be much faster to identify where the noise is introduced, because you would be able to check the signal at the input of every IC.

I only get very loud and strong hum when there is a missing reference (resistor to ground), for example when you turn on a high gain amp and the cable is still not connected to the guitar and you touch it.

Well, without the BBDs the dry side should work at least...
It seems the second BBD might be creating a problem here(if you added it first)?

I made a mistake here, now I see that after IC4A comes IC3B and not IC4B. IC4B comes before the second BBD and is biased by the trimmer. It also matches IC7 pin 7, so no problem here, my bad.

Thanks for the pictures, there are some suspicious solder points. Look for the ones that look like a large round drop or where it looks like there is a separation between the component leg and the solder. I would test all with a multimeter, cause sometimes even good looking solder blobs are can be bad...
You forgot the Jacks, but I guess they are right, since it works without power.
Check the continuity of the small black wire from xs to xr too. I guess they are good, otherwise there would be no repeats at all.