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The whole TGP  P&W mega-gear thing always feels odd to me [...]

The whole P&W crew seems to have become the cork sniffing hipster crowd. And they like to try and bargain down, since it's for their ministry. Least ways around here.

They have gear from builders you've never heard of... and they had it before it was cool to have gear from people you never heard of. Could you install/repair X for free since It'd be the right thing to do for your part in the ministry...
/rant

As someone else said... a fool and his money.

The negative leg of the 47uf cap is now in line with the 9vt wire.

The negative lead of the 10uf cap is now in line with the 5k1 resistor.

No idea if this is "correct" but it works.

I found the fix in the tagboard effects page for the circuit. Someone else had the same problem as me and fixed it by rotating the electros.

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Completely backwards.... Makes no sense. Did you accidentally swap your power and ground wires on the DC jack or something? Because you are correct the light colored area is the ground indicator just like your electros...

Or are your electros marked backwards for some reason??!?

Best practice:
After soldering Vero, take a hobby knife and run it through the tracks between copper strips.

Yes! Knife those gaps!
That's like 90% of all errors solved right there. Even if you can't see the solderbridges, it's amazing how little stray solder it takes...

I swear vero + flux = superconductor material

Looks good Sir!
Dont be shy, flip that bad boy over and post it too. That's where 90% of vero errors show up. Tiny bridge, bad cut etc.

Best practice:
After soldering Vero, take a hobby knife and run it through the tracks between copper strips.

Also you've picked the perfect starter for Vero. It's simple and easy and the flipping issue is easy to work around. Could you have imagined on the MXR Noise Gate or a BMP...

Again, Great Job!

The real question is, why not both?

I've built two kingslayers, and they are great.  They seem to have crazy gain though, when I plug them in to a tube amp, not so with a solid state amp though.  Cant figure out why.

I'm trying a sunkingII next, this time with the true/buffered bypass setup.  Why not see how they compare?

becuase the sunking ii its out of stock, and the kingslayer its on stock, i cant have both in different ships, cos i don live in USA, so shipping cost are huge, so if i was wondering if worth wait for the sunking to get on stock or just order the ksii

Look, If you have, one shot, just the one opportunity
To seize the OD/Clean boost you always wanted, one pedal
Would you build the Kingslayer or just stick with the Sunking


In all seriousness I'd build the Kingslayer II if you can only do one. As previously mentioned, the updates and changes to the circuit are an improvement
 

[ridiculously]

Just a couple more comments since I didn't see anyone make them. You might know all of this already, but better safe than a couple hours of wasted time and head banging(the wrong kind)

One of the images on Vero/Strip(this isn't tagboard.) layouts needs to be a mirror image, and the other isn't exactly what you're looking at. It's better(IMHO) to assume the components pic is the TOP and know you don't see the copper traces. Mirror image the bottom for your cuts, like so, and your cuts will be in the correct place when looking at the top side of the board:
.
I find a sharp 1/8" drill bit in the hand with a few twists is perfect to break the trace. Just don't drill with it, it's .125" and your holes are only .1" apart. Other folks prefer a hobby knife to cut traces. Regardless, check your cuts with your DMM.

Here's a completed SHO on Vero that is ridiculously close to Mark's layout. (Having noticed that, a comment Mark made to me a couple months back makes complete sense, I owe him an apology.)
Differences are:
1W 100K resistor (1/4W is perfectly fine and was an ordering mistake on my part adds Mojo! )
3K CLR doesn't exist in Mark's layout. ignore that column
I brought the GND for the DC jack right into the board at the top row because it was convenient.


The reason to connect Lugs 1&2 together is engineering insurance. If the wiper(lug2) ever fails, you'll get wide open instead of nothing. Good for volumes.


(There's a cut to isolate the CLR on my pedal that you can't see. If you want the layout I'll happily share)

[...]They seem to have crazy gain though, when I plug them in to a tube amp, not so with a solid state amp though.  Cant figure out why.

Because the fragile harmonics can't survive in a solid state crystal lattice.

You forgot:

Ah, i recommend that one anyday ... or something called "ACE" which is to be released public... any week.

Cheers!

Shameless self promotion! I'ma get the chainsaw!

[...] hopefully settle on one or two of them.

Cheers guys!

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HA..
He said one or two.... 
Welcome to the mandness.

Im not sure why she has such a strong accent...sounds like she's from madmax or something (overdone aussie accent "I know someone that can drive that tanker")

Maybe it's the missing teeth and trying to enunciate?

Thanks for the quick reply! Any chance of link to the build docs or sites where I can buy the PCBs?

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BSIAB2
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=53&category_id=16

Sonic Titan
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/01/dam-sonic-titan-with-modified-tone.html

Dr. Boogie
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/03/dr-boogie.html

I would also like to recomend the Mudbunny. I've built a few of these and it is a VERY modable board.

Mudbunny
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Mudbunny/docs/Mudbunny.pdf

I do NOT recommend the Dr. Boogie on Vero. I suggest it on a board. As always ymmv

Paul do you know the This is your brain PSA's? They were an integral part of the US's (failed) War on Drugs in the 80's. I dunno if they made it over to Oz.

Clearly you need to make 2 stickers

Doesn't offend me any! It reminds me of the old "this is your brain..." PSAs.

+1

Thank you.

ggarms - I noticed you posted in the parts jar section. My local electronics store surplus (supposedly) has 1/2W 9.1Ω or 12Ω in stock. Would you like me to grab them for you?