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Rob, R1 is a 1MΩ  for pulldown which shouldn't be needed, so I filled the slot with a 0Ω resistor. 2n5088's are used for the trannies, 1N4738A is the zener I used, R4 reads cathode = 5.4v Anode = 0v.

Now I'm no rocket scientist (we'll leave that to Brian) but 5.4v when you're expecting 8.2 is bad. D4 replaced, and I'm now getting 8.2 at IC3 pin 1. Tested old d4 and got 5.4v on a piece of vero,  ... Bad part.

Still no audio out. I'll post up a new batch of voltages then get to work on an audio probe. My schematic reading is terrible( I am getting better), so if anyone could provide the audio path( Brian didn't give us the nice multilayer view of the PCB on this one.)

Clay

Fixed.
(1) Pork Barrel
(2) No sound. Nothing. Seriously.
(3) Replaced Caps, swapped tl062 and JRC 4558, drank beer, waited 2 weeks, rechecked in/out wiring, foul language uttered in it's general direction, reflowed all solder joints, drank beer, swapped trimmer, burned myself, waited 2 weeks, checked pervious things again, foul language spoken in it's general direction, taken voltages, questioned it's parentage, got shocked, foul language screamed in it's general direction, posted here, beer on deck.
(4) Depth mod - removed and 4k7 inserted for now. LED did very dimly light and cycle. I used a 16 pin IC holder rather than 2 8 pins for the 3102 and 3207 I don't think that matters

v3102 and v3207 chips were sourced from Small Bear. Jumpers under them run N/S
TL062/JRC 4558 original parts from Tayda - replaced at local electronics shop. Still nothing. Voltages here

So I'm at a loss here. The voltages dropping on IC2 pins 3+7 and Q4's 0 V at the emitter definitely bother me, but I have nothing to go by other than it seems "strange". Generally no voltage is bad though right? I don't know if those test points are for anything, I couldn't see anything meaningful on the schematic, and they're not labeled anywhere so I labeled them myself.
Large pics can be found here




I've built cave dweller, afterlife, bloviator,  a fuzz and a noise gate (on vero!) and never had any problems...

Help is most definitely welcome.

double post deleted.

I got a rather nice sized bottle of Ferric Chloride from Amazon and am looking at this guide on doing an etch. Seems to be rather comprehensive and his etches are always amazing.

I'm really interested to hear what you think when you get it. Maybe you also take a peek inside?

+1 on on this. Especially if we're able to modify it out and get knobs for rate and depth. 

If you're looking at Haberdasher's wiring diagram, the input jack is the left jack, and the right jack will be the output... Sorta.

The catch is you're looking at the top of the board, into the box from the bottom. Now when you put the bottom/lid on it, and flip it over so you can stomp away, it's now input on the right, and output on the left.

Yes it's a 1590BB according to Brian's original posting

I drew a wiring diagram for it that I used in mine... ... ...

And welcome to the madness that is guitar pedal building.

This! I'd like to point out this is why I love this forum. I don't post much, but I read a ton, and everyone is ready to help everyone from beginner to pro. Awesome!

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5494.0

Many thanks. That's why I wasn't finding it. I was wrong search term, they weren't vector.
and re forum search - very good to know.  I knew I wasn't a complete idiot.  

So somewhere between here, guitarpcb, and aron's I had found a file that had all kinds of vector layouts for knob dials. I'm not looking for this pack from offtheroad but if you look at some of Dano's stuff over at beavisaudo he has different "scales" and such to go around the knob area on a pedal. Does anyone else know what I'm talking about? My forum-serach-foo has failed in my attempts to locate them.

Any and all help is appreciated, and mods if I'm in the wrong area, please feel free to relocate it to the correct one.

Wow. So two things contributed to this, but hey it's a first build and mistakes are made. First I wiped the box down after sanding with a rag that was damp from LACQUER thinner(oops alcohol would have been fine) and then the oven being over temp compounded the problem. I noticed the lacquer thinner issue when I was moving the rag from the bench to the laundry bin I keep in the workshop. Yellow paint all over it.

Now it sounds just fine - and yeah it looks like a rat rod. So for now it will go in this box. Next order from Tayda will include an extra box that will get the right treatment, and I'll relegate this one to the test bed. Blem boxes are best for that anyways

Grind - Valspar is Lowe's brand -I dunno if it's actually krylon - I'll take the heat down next time( I marked the actual temps on the dial) and try a matte black primer along with your method of spraying hot. I have a Cave Dweller that's coming next in a 125B again (I like the size). Haven't decided if I'll etch it or if I'll be using the gloss purple the wife picked up at Lowes. Maybe both. Thanks for the tips.


Jimilee - How does it sound? Well, it sounds great. It sounds like I remember, and it adds a very nice tightness to my LP, and my strat gets well strat-ier. Lots of quack in the notches. I intended on getting this built and as an always on just like you mentioned. I didn't mind the soldering but yeah they're tiny. Thank goodness for the fine conical point on my iron.

Thank you for the kind words!

It's the same basic principle - Spray - wait - spray - wait - spray - wait - bake. Baking makes the paint hard, so it will stand up to abuse.

Sorry there's nothing in between - but like I said the phone died. Since the paint was heat hardened, sanding it down wasn't an option. So I distressed it and the graphics. The bubbles aren't from the decal paper, save the footswitch bubble which will push right through when I add the stomp in.



I kinda like it now, but I'll see how I feel about it in a few days, I don't have an extra enclosure at the moment. I may just call that one a loss and use it for a test bed box, and run the power, jacks, and switch to a terminal strip, use a road rage inside and add a 9v sag and a the extra power output options, we will see.

I've always repaired stuff and fixed busted pedals with new caps or removed buffers - So I gathered it was time to try building one.

I started simple with a Bloviator build. I have other boards from Madbean and some Vero layouts I'd like to try.

First I came up with a layout - kinda basic MXR style - it's a 125B enclosure.


I got busy with the drill and some sandpaper,


A little krylon love


Then off to the toaster oven @ 250°F for an hour.


While that was going on - I added the components and soldered them.


Naturally you must rock it before you box it.


Now the snag started - and it's not the circuit. That's fine.

That was a reuse store toaster oven for $5 - and it's a little hot. The first coat was fine, when I sanded and went for the second coat - after an hour in the toaster oven it had bubbled around the edges. I tossed a thermometer in there and @ 250°F on the dial it was reading 325°F.  Not gonna sand out, without getting all the way back to metal. Point of baking them is the hardening. Oops. Phone died at this point, so there's no pictures of this step. I do have a plan, more to come.

Oh and Hi. I'm Clay and I'm a guitar freak.