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As far as attenuators go, it will not get you all the way where you want to go (reduces natural speaker distortion) but it might get you close enough to justify the expense rather than buying a practice amp. I would try the Dr Z Brake Lite if you can find one for a decent price. They seem to hold their value so if you can find one around $130-$140 you should be able to get your money back if you are unhappy with it.

I think 40 Watts is a bit much for a practice amp myself but it depends on the type of music and how loud you practice. If you play a lot of shows and practice is more of a utility thing I would say deal with the crappy toan, however if practice is your primary outlet for making noise then obviously achieving that sound your looking for becomes more important.

I tried attenuators and was not really satisfied so I downsized to a Vox AC15. It made sense since I mostly play bars where 40 watts in a bit much. Ten years ago I was rocking a 60 watt amp and playing a lot of larger venues so an attenuator for practice/small shows made sense.  I guess I'm trying to say that you should look at the big picture and see what will work best for your situation...

yeahh, difficult point.
I´m just starting with this band and is definetly a hobby. some gigs per year but not much.
I also would like to record with the amp, and with the current situation is impossible (at full crunch) :S
Last time i played in a middle size venue and the sound guy asked me to reduce the volume (they always do )
The thing is that i was at my volume on 3. so i had to add the mic a bit further. This was weird. I´ve seen guys playing the amps full power and with the mic totally attached to the amp. What about recording in studio? it wouldnt be too loud to play a 40-50w amp full power to get a nice tone out of it? how they do it?
Do you have any experience with the acrylic shield? would that helps on rehearsal rooms?
thanks for helping

ohhh man! I´m sorry to hear that.
I´m not a positive thinking man, but everyone says that after some down strokes some good ones will come!
This really suck and make me think how safe am i with my computer?
Good luck mate!

Nice Gears man!
Congrats

Dear Experts.
as usual another trouble on my way.
I´ve got some time ago a Marshall Haze 40w (2x EL34 and Celestion G12T-66 12 ).
Im trying to setup the volume/tone for rehearsal. The damn thing is too, tooo loud already on the clean channel.
The volume pot starts to kick on the 2 (8´clock) and it really goes till 11
I read lods of information regarding on how to get the best sound out of it regarding volume/tone. Some people suggests attenuator, but i´ve never used and have no clue about it (sharing experiences highly welcome

So, to fit all the band, i have to set my volume to 3 max 4, which is already loud for a small room. Sounds crap of course, no juice from the Valves
Somehow, i started to experiment and after long 6 hours i managed to reduce the volume by adjusting the volume of my pedals.
i reduced a lot the volume of the pedals and then, increased the volume of the Amp (clean channel). it sounds ok (just ok).
i have a strong feedback as well which goes away when i reduce the volume of my Fuzz face ( Amp>Crybaby>TS>FF>ZeroPoint DD)
of course, if i want to turn the pedal off for a clean signal, will blow some brains in the room :S
Im kind of lost on the possibilites of improvement.
I would like to ask your help here considering that i still want to keep this Amp (low budget )
other question: is a 40W really too much for rehearsal?
thanks a lot for any help!!!
Gledison

Looks great.
What the MAX1044 does in this circuit? as a charge pump?
cheers

Perfect Build! congrats Man!

Great idea guys! The only thing is how to get relatively cheap Apple plugs?

Thanks

Which devices do you have and what connectors are on them?

Does the audio have to be HiFi or do you just want it good enough to practice with?

No need for hifi , just good enough!:)
The connection is a connector from the 3,5mm to RCA!

Great idea guys! The only thing is how to get relatively cheap Apple plugs?

Thanks

Cord may not be fitting properly in to the iPad also, the newer one are shaped a bit oddly to where it won't go down all the way.

Hi jimmi,
this weekend i will work on the variables, like cables, adaptors etc..
you might be right, because this problem is happening most of the time, but not All the time.
Cheers

Hey guys.
first of all thanks for helping.
so, it happen with the same track.
yes, it is a 3,5mm with an adapter to RCA.
rullywowr: the phase inversion, you mean on the RCA cable? like ground on output and vice versa?

Hey Guys,
im intrigued with a new problem.
when i play a CD player through my band's mixer in order to hear the song through the PAs everything is ok. But when i use an ipad or iphone player, it sounds like some filtering is happening. Sometimes i can hear just the backing vocals of a song for example.
im using the same cable, just switching the ipod or iphone X CD player..
any clue of what is happening?
thanks a lot in adnvace

Hi. I have only experience with this one:

It works very well!

i still have 3 of this over my box, and they are really a pain in the ass, they dont say it but you need to let the ink dry before you use the mask, you need to apply it really careful to get the right amount, i damaged many boards with that, but if you are using some silk screen to apply it this its perfect, for hand apply its really hard to get good results, im giving some of my solder mask on the PIF section but no-one seems to care, if you want some please tell me.

Hey, I've got a lot as well, thanks.
I think it depends for what you need. If you want for profi use than might be a pain in the butt indeed. I'm using for my pedals and only to protect the board against corrosion and to easier the soldering. One thing u could do is to brush it over the board and cover it with a polyethylene foil, than apply the pads mask on the top of it. If u do it carefully, removing the little air bubbles, might get perfect. If u leave it to dry overnight or for a 30 min in a toaster oven, u can have better results. Always by adding the film on the top, PE does not adhere to the epoxi.
I hope u get the results you want and please let me know how is it going with the new one u are using!
Cheers

dry film its the best, i have those chinise soldermask on the box, i will neve use it, i can give you some of the dry film if you want to try i have a hugh roll of 200 feet long per 24" width and i wont use all of it never jajaj

Thanks mate but I don't have a laminator and I dont have much space to get diff devices!
I agree that the dry is the best but u also need the reactive solutions and a. Nice UV lamp. Maybe one day...

in fact no, you cant use sunlight(i do) its better than my UV lamp, reactive solution its soda ash(you can get it at pool supplies really cheap) and laminator man, this things are for pro use, but with an airon just like you do toner transfer its more than enough, im telling you cos i do it that way

Hmmmm! Hey bro, what about a vídeo or pic short tutorial? Im pretty sure lots of guys here would love it!!
And yeah, i would live a bit of the dry film to try ! Cheers mate

Hi. I have only experience with this one:

It works very well!

i still have 3 of this over my box, and they are really a pain in the ass, they dont say it but you need to let the ink dry before you use the mask, you need to apply it really careful to get the right amount, i damaged many boards with that, but if you are using some silk screen to apply it this its perfect, for hand apply its really hard to get good results, im giving some of my solder mask on the PIF section but no-one seems to care, if you want some please tell me.

Hey, I've got a lot as well, thanks.
I think it depends for what you need. If you want for profi use than might be a pain in the butt indeed. I'm using for my pedals and only to protect the board against corrosion and to easier the soldering. One thing u could do is to brush it over the board and cover it with a polyethylene foil, than apply the pads mask on the top of it. If u do it carefully, removing the little air bubbles, might get perfect. If u leave it to dry overnight or for a 30 min in a toaster oven, u can have better results. Always by adding the film on the top, PE does not adhere to the epoxi.
I hope u get the results you want and please let me know how is it going with the new one u are using!
Cheers

dry film its the best, i have those chinise soldermask on the box, i will neve use it, i can give you some of the dry film if you want to try i have a hugh roll of 200 feet long per 24" width and i wont use all of it never jajaj

Thanks mate but I don't have a laminator and I dont have much space to get diff devices!
I agree that the dry is the best but u also need the reactive solutions and a. Nice UV lamp. Maybe one day...

Hi. I have only experience with this one:

It works very well!

i still have 3 of this over my box, and they are really a pain in the ass, they dont say it but you need to let the ink dry before you use the mask, you need to apply it really careful to get the right amount, i damaged many boards with that, but if you are using some silk screen to apply it this its perfect, for hand apply its really hard to get good results, im giving some of my solder mask on the PIF section but no-one seems to care, if you want some please tell me.

Hey, I've got a lot as well, thanks.
I think it depends for what you need. If you want for profi use than might be a pain in the butt indeed. I'm using for my pedals and only to protect the board against corrosion and to easier the soldering. One thing u could do is to brush it over the board and cover it with a polyethylene foil, than apply the pads mask on the top of it. If u do it carefully, removing the little air bubbles, might get perfect. If u leave it to dry overnight or for a 30 min in a toaster oven, u can have better results. Always by adding the film on the top, PE does not adhere to the epoxi.
I hope u get the results you want and please let me know how is it going with the new one u are using!
Cheers

Hi. I have only experience with this one:

It works very well!