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See if this helps.   If so you could use the extra side of your DPDT to switch an LED or something.   

Heeey, that's much more info than I had so thanks!   

I reckon the diameter is around ~22mm not counting the pointer.

Anyone have one of these knobs, or a pedal that uses them?  I'm just curious about the size (maybe up against a 1510 or MXR?)... 

I've contacted Daier for a datasheet/drawing but they apparently can't provide one for this one.   

It looks like some sort of Davies clone but I can't figure out which one.

Okay, I put a few of the templates up on the site.      Probably bad form to link it here, if you don't know where to find them shoot me a PM.

BTW those builds look awesome Dan. 

Good lord, the Tapanator!   That's a lot of stuff in one box!

Is it just my pedal, then?

The FV-1 isn't dead silent in any application, but the noise floor is more apparent in a 100% wet situation.
There are a couple things you can do to reduce the noise in your build though.   

Increase the value of C14 (120pF) - Anywhere from 470pF - 1nF, you'll have to find a nice middle ground between less noise / treble attenuation

If you can live with a little less output boost on tap you have two other options:

1) Decrease the value of R11 to 10K (and increase C14)

or

2) Remove R10 and replace R11 with a jumper wire (optionally omit C13 / C14 since they'll be out of circuit)

The mouse nibbles on the edge of OSHPark PCBs might screw with the registration of the template on the enclosure edges, though.

Yep.  To prevent this from being a problem these are built from three individual non-panelized PCBs.   It costs a bit more to do it this way but it gives each part a much nicer edge.

I didn't expect so many folks to be interested, let me see how many I have left and I'll get some more on the way if needed.   

Some of you know that I had to virtually stop building about two years ago due to lack of space / work area....   I did some building in the corner of an un-airconditioned laundry room, but during the summertime this is just unreasonable.

So... I've recently acquired a cargo trailer that I'm converting into a workshop.    This will be ideal because when we move I can take my workshop with me, fully intact.   

It's a bit cluttered at the moment, but I'm just getting everything moved in.  Plenty of work ahead.

Decline?  Hell I'm just getting warmed back up.   

I have a couple of these left if you want one.     

You just drop it on the edge of the enclosure and mark the holes, sets them right where they need to be.   

The EEPROMs are fairly interchangeable...

If you put an 8-program EEPROM into a 3-program PCB you'll be able to access the first three effects on the EEPROM.

If you put a 3-program EEPROM into an 8-program PCB the last 5 "positions" on the mode knob will pass no digital signal, the first three will function as expected.


The exception is the DMD-2, Organ Donor, VHS, and upcoming "Leprechaun".    These have slightly different external (analog) circuitry so won't quite function as expected in any other PCB.

No at all CJ, thanks for your help!  If i follow through with it i will let you all know how i go experimenting.

I have a vinyl cutter here, I've thought about using it for the occasional one-off but have never actually done it.   It's fairly durable but you'll be able to peel it off if you try.   As mentioned earlier, it holds up quite well on vehicles in the weather and survives car washes.

In my experience extremely small print may not be possible (also remember you have to hand-weed the "negative space" vinyl), but standard sized label text and reasonable graphics should be.

Personally I would prefer it over waterslide / clearcoat, I hate dealing with that mess. 

However.... As far as easy / quick pedal graphics are concerned, so far my favorite method (aside from professional UV printing) is to have "PCB" faceplates fabricated. 
This allows you to align/size the holes with great accuracy.   They pop right on and the other hardware holds them in place.   Also if the layout is symmetrical you can print a different pedal on each side of the board.   This is great for one-offs / custom builds.

If we're talking about who I think we're talking about, I hear he's an extremely handsome guy.
Like, really really ridiculously good looking.


Okay on a serious note... 

I'm admittedly way behind on build docs but finally starting to make some progress.   Another week or so and they should be caught up.     At any point you can shoot me a message and I'll send over any info you need, you aren't bugging me so feel free any time.

I had to rush out a few docs, folks needed drill templates and parts lists but the schematics weren't quite "ready for prime time" so they were omitted until I have a chance to clean them up. 

Yep, I've experienced the same thing with the 1590DD's from Tayda.     

Still usable, but much thicker than normal.   The aluminum also seemed "chewier", hard to explain, but softer and gummed up my bit more than usual.
Also the 6-screw pattern can be a bit tricky if you plan to put a footswitch right at the bottom/center of the enclosure.

No problems at all with the 1590XX... wish they'd offer them with powdercoat. 

The real threat is jh....I mean... never mind...bwahahahaha

Had a private conversation with Adrian, very nice and polite guy.  I appreciate and respect the way he approached me about the matter and I hope we've come to an agreement, I don't want anyone to feel cheated or ripped off.  That is not my goal.

Support him, he's one of the good guys.   

http://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pyrocumulus/