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Hi all.

I picked up a Dragon Hound PCB in the past.  Does anyone have a BOM or schematic for this circuit?  Suppose I can follow the silk screen, but I'd like to cross-check, if possible.

Thanks, Bruce.

Hi all.

I'd like to build 2 separate Boss FS-5U footswitch circuits with externally powered LEDs and separate TS jacks into a single 125B enclosure. 

I'd be using this in the 2 FS-5Us>GA-FC>Katana 100 Head configuration shown on p. 8 of the Katana owners manual:



The difference is, I'd like the 2 separate FS-5U circuits in the picture to be in 1 enclosure and for them to each have their own (externally powered) LEDs and TS jacks.

As far as I can tell, the FS-5U footswitch is just a normally closed momentary switch attached to a TS jack, so I built one of those and it worked.

Then I put 2 of them into the same 125B enclosure, and it worked too.

But then I tried to add externally powered LEDs.  I thought that - because I want the LEDs to switch latching style (back and forth) while the switches themselves are momentary - it would require relays. 

So I tried using Softie 2 boards wired to the normally closed momentary switches like this:





Trouble is, it works as intended with no power, but when power is applied:
- the top switch triggers both LEDs
- the bottom switch triggers no LEDs

Guessing this probably has something to do with shared power or the Softie working by grounding to the enclosure ... but can anyone offer fixes or alternatives to get the outcome I'm after?

Thaanks!

Hi all.

I'm just boxing up a MB 4:1 compressor and the way my board is shaping up I either need another tap on my 9-volt daisy chain or to use the 18-volt outlet on my VL ISO-5. 

Can the 4:1 compressor be run at at 18 volts?  Is there an upside (more headroom?) or downside (more noise?) doing that?

My google-fu is not strong, but I did find a site that suggests it's fine if your caps are rated high enough (mine are): https://atomiumamps.tumblr.com/post/158891400886/hollis-flatline-compressor-modsupdates-ive-built

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi All. 

I've decided to unload some of my backlog of unbuilt PCBs.  However, Canada Post has told me that I can't tape them inside greeting cards and ship to the US anymore.  Instead, I now have to ship them as parcels ...  Seems to me that would make the postage worth more than the circuit board ...

Before I post a list of circuits for sale in the forum, I'd appreciate it if folks could let me know how they're currently shipping PCBs and what I might be looking at for cost?  I'm not looking to make money, just recover some costs and move along boards that I likely won't get to.

Thanks!

Hi all.

Disclaimer / lengthy preface: I really don't like selling stuff.  The whole exchange of my stuff for your cash and potential for miscommunication and sideways-ness stresses me out.  Even though I've never had a bad transaction ... it's still a thing for me.  Also, I tend to overthink things.  [The two issues are not unrelated ... as I'm sure you can imagine.]  To date, I've tended to avoid selling by trading things in or giving stuff away or gotten it over with by asking for very little, but occasionally I have something that either isn't trade-in-able or is worth a bit more than I'd like to give away ... especially when I'd like some cash to buy something else (like a neck for a Mustang-style guitar build that I'm collecting parts for).

Anyhow ... this brings us to my question.  What do you think is a reasonable price to ask for used guitar guts? 

I posted this on the TDPRI website: http://www.tdpri.com/threads/seymour-duncan-humbuckers-59-bridge-seth-lover-neck.909089/.  I'm more comfortable with the folks here, so would appreciate any feedback on the price or any other thoughts on selling used guitar guts.

With that in mind, I also have a used 335-style split-coil wiring harness from jonseyblues (on this page: http://www.jonesyblues.com/sg--335--flying-v-wiring-.html) that was attached to the humbuckers.  Is this something you'd even consider selling or is that plain nutty?  Again, I'd appreciate any feedback.

Odd questions, I know.  It's my growth area! 

Thanks, Bruce.

Hi all.

Wondering if there's such a thing as general, but effective instructions for biasing an MN3005 delay ... preferably without an oscilloscope?  If you know of something like that, then I'd really appreciate it if you could point me in the right direction.

Asking because I built up electricb's Analog Delay (Maxon AD-900 / https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8HPHm7M8U3zNTZrSDZnMG5Ub3c/view), but there are no biasing instructions.  He was kind enough to provide some reference documents:

- Instructions for MN3008 version from freestompboxes: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MME5E1GFaOBb-6xN6fMEdc4ghryU8rEh/view
- Link to diystompboxes thread about MN3008 version https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?PHPSESSID=39ktmc3jnq3q5k4f6tb482kss6&topic=109774.20
- MB Dirtbag Deluxe BOM: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Dirtbag/DirtBagDeluxe.pdf

... but I'm not getting the values indicated in the instructions for the MN3008 version pretty much at step 1 (i.e. I turned "Clock" trimmer to 7KHz ±200Hz, but don't get 110 to 140KHz when I turn the Delay pot CCW.  And step 2 requires an oscilloscope ...

Thanks!

PS.  Lame question #2: how do I find the mid-point of a 25 turn trimmer after it's installed on the board?  They just seem to endlessly spin in either direction?   

I'm working stage crew this weekend for the Salmon Arm Roots & Blues festival.  Last night The Family Stone were the headliners.  The backline folks didn't have enough wahs to go around (LOL!), so I loaned my MB Weener Wah to the lead male vocalist/keys/guitar player.  Crappy picture from my cell cam, but it's the bright green LED pedal he's playing with here on Thank You (Falettinme Be Mice Elf Agin).



It sounded way better than when I play it!  Thanks Brian for a great project!

Sorry, if I deserve a Darwin award for contemplating this, but at least I'm asking before doing?!?

In briefest terms, I'd like to put a Mackie Mix8 compact mixer on one of my pedalboards and - for cable management reasons - feed it onboard power.  However, my Voodoo Lab ISO-5 doesn't pump enough current at 18V. 

The original PSU is this one http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/502083-Mackie-2045242-00, but it's too big to fit under the board and is a US wall plug-style and all I've got are IEC Y-cable extension cords for driving my PSUs.

So, I thought I'd pick up a chassis mount IEC receptacle (https://www.avshop.ca/sound-amp-pa-audio/replacement-parts/replacement-iec-chassis-connector) plus one of these compact power supplies (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/VORED-AC-100-240V-to-DC-18V-600mA-US-Plug-Coverter-Power-Adapter-Free-Shipping-Universal/32830804109.html, then wire the IEC ground to the pedalboard and the IEC + and - to the PSU prongs, apply shrink tubing and tape and consider it done.

Is there a reason this wouldn't be safe?  Are there better options? 

Hi All.  In building a 4:1 I somehow got a little sloppy with solder and infilled one of the pads for R2 (see red dot below):



Things went from bad to worse when I lifted the infilled R2 pad on the component side of the board while removing the excess solder.

I didn't test continuity before my mishap, so looking for advice:

Looking at the schematic, I'm thinking I should have continuity from one side of R2 to the positive side of C10 ... and I do.  [Yay!!]



However, it also looks like I should have continuity from the other side of R2 (red dot) to pin 3 of IC 1 and one side of C1.  Unfortunately, I don't.  There's continuity from pin 3 of IC 1 to one side of C1, but neither has continuity with R2. 

Does this mean I've burned out the red dot side of R2?  Can I fix this by soldering a jumper between that point (red dot) and pin 3 of IC1? 

Any observations or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Sorry if this is a really basic electronics question, but ... I'm interested in building a quad box extension cord to throw in my gig bag.  It seems like every DIY posting out there is followed by dire warnings in posted comments. 

https://youtu.be/QbjcEo7fo0A

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Extension-Cord-With-Built-in-Switch-Safe-Qu/

Are these truly a bad idea safety-wise or can I build one following online instructions.  Any advice appreciated.

I'm pretty sure the fail will be down to me, but ... I've built up a Choral Reef and v2.1 switching board.  I get bypass signal, but utter silence when switched to effect.  No parts substitutions, just what was in the BOMs from Mouser and Small Bear.

I have power to the switching board, but seeing no power at the Choral Reef.  I've confirmed continuity between the switching board and the effect pcb, so guessing that means the the switching board is the (first) problem.  I've checked my solder joints and parts orientations. 

   

Wondering about next steps.  Can't figure out how to use my testing rig with the VFE projects since everything is basically complete, signal through jacks, etc.  Only thing that comes to mind is checking voltages on the switching board parts. 

Does anyone have a list of voltages for the v2.1 switching board that they could post as a comparison?  Or any other suggestions how to troubleshoot on of these projects? 

Thanks for any/all ideas.   

Sorry if I'm missing something, but ...

- There are 3 @ 1K resistors on the Choral Reef PCB, but none listed on the right side of the PCB image on page 1 of the BOM.  Should I populate the 3 @ 1K resistors or leave them out?
- There's a 65K resistor listed on the right side of the PCB image on page 1 of the BOM, but on the PCB image it's a 68K.  Am I good going 68K?

Thanks for any help.

Does anyone know of a compact PCB project for a bipolar 15V or 18V power supply?  I'd like to fit it with this mic pre-amp (https://expataudio.myshopify.com/products/eden-microphone-preamplifier) into a 1590B or 125B box. 

Does anyone know of a DIY microphone pre-amp that runs at 9-12V and fits in a 1590B or 125B?  I'd like something to fit on a very small acoustic/vocal pedalboard that will bring my SM58 up to line level before the signal hits my RC-3 looper.  I've found some small mic pre's by googling, but they either don't have a PCB, are sized for racks and/or are powered at 18-48V.  Any leads would be appreciated.

The subject line pretty much says it all.  I turned my brain off for a couple of minutes while working on my Current Lover 2015.  The pedal was boxed up and working fine, but the hot-glued bypass LED popped out of it's hole.  I got the genius idea of remelting the glue with a heat gun.  Of course, the pedal then stopped producing a flange effect and the bypass LED lit up full-time. 

After replacing IC3 (CD4049), I got the effect back, but the LED bypass LED remains on.  Can anyone suggest what I may have done/where to start with the troubleshooting?

Like the title says, I built this pedalboard (stained 1"x6" with amp feet) and pedals for a friend and bandmate who passed on his dad's snow blower after he passed.  Maybe snow blowers are just a Canadian thing?  Dunno.  Appreciated though. 



Pedals are: Kingbreaker (Aion Cerulean to PoT spec's)>DS-1'tortion (Aion Comet with all mods)>Phaser (MadBean NomNom)>combo THCustom 5-band EQ/Madbean Fatpants Jr.  All powered by a supply from BLMS.

Hope he likes it!

So, I built a pedal as a thank-you gist for a friend (who likes to use an EQ as a boost).  It's a 2-in-1 with the following signal chain:

Input > GC Lumen/THC 5-band EQ > GC Lumen/MB Fatpants Jr 2:1 > Output

Power goes from the DC jack to the EQ's Lumen board, then from there to the Fatpants Jr's Lumen board.

The Fatpants Lr works great on it's own ... as long as the EQ is off: silent switching and low noise, high output boost.

The EQ is the spanner in the works: the EQ knobs do what they're supposed to, BUT:

     1. horrendous stomp switch pop on when turning the EQ on/off; AND, worse yet,
     2. horrendous switch pop from the Fatpants Jr when the EQ is already on.

Has anyone run into switch pop with this or other EQ circuits even when using an optical bypass?  Can anyone suggest a possible fix?

I'd love to gift this pedal to my friend, but it's not usable as-is.

Hi All.

I'm boxing up a Pork Barrel with an outboard clean blend.  I really like this chorus effect and want it on my board, so I definitely don't want any switch pop.  I was thinking of using a GCFX Lumen relay bypass for the stomp, but - just due to the way I've got everything laid out - I'm wondering: can I power the Pork Barrel and the Lumen straight off the DC jack and power the blend circuit off the Lumen?  In other words, will the relay bypass still work properly if it's only connection to the chorus effect is the PCB IN and PCB Out? 

Sorry if the answer is obvious.  I've had mixed results with the Lumen circuit so I thought I'd try to get advice up front this time!

Thanks!

So, I built a Current Lover 2015 ...
- it worked fine on my testing rig before boxing
- once boxed, it gave either silence (no signal) or ear-piercing tone when I operated the stomp switch
- probed it: faint testing rig tone when not touching the probe to the circuit and ear-piercing tone everywhere when I probed
- pulled it out of the enclosure
- checked parts and wiring
- re-ran testing rig:
   - faint testing rig tone in bypass, silence when engaged
   - probed and got input tone at input pad, but nowhere else
- took pictures and recorded voltages:







- followed MB forum advice:
   - checked parts and wiring
   - reflowed solder joints
   - continuity-tested and short-checked all jumpers and off-board wiring
   - replaced all ICs and transistors with new ones from Small Bear
- re-ran testing rig:
   - clean tone in bypass
   - clean tone when engaged
- recorded voltages with new chip set:



Current status: using "S" and "R" to send and return signal to the PCB from testing rig, I get a clean signal only at "R" no matter how many times I follow the biasing instructions.  Rate light is flashing.

I'd really appreciate a hand with this.  Thanks!

Hi All.

My Current Lover 2015 worked fine through my test rig, but - now that it's boxed - gives either silence/no bypass signal or ear-piercing tone when I operate the stomp switch.

Before I start trouble-shooting, recording voltages, taking pictures, etc, do you suggest I pull it from the box and/or disconnect the stomp switch leads?  FYI - I used Wiring Guide 1 (no send/return jacks).

Thanks for any suggestions/advice. 

Still needing tech help - please see updated status at end of thread.