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Hi Jacob.

Is your Nano the older one with square tubing?  It might be possible to mod it and attach a power supply underneath.  These links feature the Fuel Tank Jr, but it seems like you might need the ISO-5:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stomp-box/255563-pedaltrain-nano.html
www.tdpri.com/forum/stomp-box/296043-pedaltrain-mini-has-no-room-power-supply.html

Just a thought.  Bruce.

Hey Jimilee.

Here's another option: http://www.boothillamps.com/5F1_Kits.php.  I heard a lot of good things about this kit supplier when I was researching a first amp build (no affiliation whatsoever).  He was good at Q&A during my research and was even one of the guys that helped me troubleshoot the start-up of my Weber Maggie kit when I posted to the TDPRI Shock Bros. forum http://www.tdpri.com/forum/shock-brothers-diy-amps/.  You'd still need a cab, speaker and tubes, but if you find a donor unit, then you may be set.  If not, then he can supply those too.

Good luck, enjoy.  Bruce.

Thanks Jon.  Good advice (and better searching).

I'm a novice player and more inclined to my MIM Telecaster or Epi Les Paul, but I really liked the mini-switch that got put in my MIM Stratocaster by the luthier that did my initial set-up.  It allows you to play the neck and bridge pickups together or all three together (http://www.guitar-mod.com/wiring/neck_on_howto.gif).  Fralin's blender pot is a similar, but different approach (http://www.fralinpickups.com/images/blendschem2.jpg).

Another nice mod the luthier did was wiring the lower tone pot to control the middle and bridge (http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/strat-bridge-pickup-tone-control-1).  Again, more options.

Together, these offer some nice tone combinations and helped me like the stock pickups enough to not replace them.  Also helped me appreciate the variety of tones you can get with low-ish output pickups, a couple of pedals and an amp set near breakup. 

Definitely still sounds like a strat, but sometimes that's what fits the bill.

Hi All.

A newbie question for you.  I'm starting to collect parts for an Aion Refractor (Klone) build.  The BOM calls for 27nF and 390 nF box capacitors.  These values aren't stocked at Small Bear.  Would 22nF and 330 nF be close enough to not change the character of the pedal or should I always match values?

Similarly, for resistors, is it close enough to choose resistor values within the +/-% tolerance range of the one called for in a BOM or should you always match to maintain the target tone?

I'd appreciate some of your wisdom on this.

Thanks!  Bruce.

Thanks Felix.  I see now that I interpreted the first GGG picture incorrectly and that both diagrams route the "SW" pad of the charge pump to the ring of the input jack.  Thanks for pointing that out.

It seems that I can go with the diagram at the start of the thread and that battery power will be switched at the input jack.  I'm hoping the grounding scheme is sufficient to keep circuit noise down, but I can tell from your and Jacob's notes on grounding/switching that I have a lot to learn in that area!

Thanks Jacob!

Thanks for the comments and corrections.  Much appreciated.

If I wire the black wire from the battery snap to the ring lug of the input jack, then do I now use the DC jack as the common attachment point for the star ground (instead of the sleeve of the input jack as shown in my first post)?

Also, the GGG wiring diagram for the charge pump (Road Rage was out of stock) shows an "SW" pad connected to the sleeve of the input jack:



... though their Fuzz Face with Charge Pump wiring diagram shows the same pad connected to the ring:



Does the "SW" pad go to the sleeve as suggested ... or does it somehow negate the need to wire the black wire from the battery snap to the ring lug?

Sorry if the answers obvious, but I'm not seeing it.

I recent picked up 20 GLS Audio 1/4" right angle pancake plugs from Orange County Speaker (http://www.speakerrepair.com) for $29.99.  Paired them up with Mogami W2319 cable from Redco ($0.44/ft).  Very happy with the quality so far.  Very happy that the pancakes have solder tabs for both tip and sleeve. 

Hi Madbeaners,

I'm building a 2-in-1 Madbean Mangler/Rangemaster with a General Guitar Gadgets charge pump changing +9V DC to -9V DC.  I've searched for wiring schematics and distilled what I've seen to the attached sketch.



I'd really appreciate it if some of you wiser and experienced folks could let me know if I've got it right before I wire it up and connect the power.  Sorry it's a bit rough.  It seemed easier to draw freehand that CAD'ing ...

Thanks, Bruce.

Hi Guys,
there is something as well regarding effects electronics?
That would be great.
Cheers

Hey Gledison.

I haven't gone down that rabbit hole yet, but I've seen some good comments on these books:

The Stompbox Cookbook: Build Advanced Effects for Electric Guitar & Bass by Nicholas Boscorelli

Analog Man's Guide to Vintage Effects by Tom Hughes

Electronic Projects for Musicians by Craig Anderton

Can't vouch for them personally, so YMMV.

Bruce.

That's a really, really great book.  Nice blend of technical detail and common language, always looping back to tone and amp-player interaction.  It inspired me to learn soldering and build the amp project at the end of the book.  Love the amp.  A lot.  That experience and Madbean gave me the courage to try building pedals, now I've built three!  Thank you Dave Hunter.  Thank you Madbean.

Hey Jimilee.

This is your second build ever?

You're being nice, but I appreciate it!  I guess, technically, it's my third build.  I learned to solder by making a tweed Princeton-style amp, then a BYOC pedal, then the Sea Urchin.  I just take it SLOW and methodical with lots of back-checks for cold solder joints, solder bridges, etc.  That's kinda why I posted.  Everybody starts somewhere and most of the build reports on Madbean are so impressive, it's hard to imagine ever being that good.

Thanks again, Bruce.

Hi Hexjibber.

Hey great build man, nice work! I had a question, is it possible to add the JMK tap pcb to any delay build do you know?

Thanks for the kind words.  I thought A LOT before posting.  Most of the build reports here look like pieces of art!  Mine ... not so much, but it works AND sounds good!  I think PhiloB's got you covered with the link to jmkpcbs.  The build doc has instructions on how to add the modulating taptation to several popular DIY delays.  I'd just say again that Jacob at JMK (no affiliation) was super helpful.  I'd recommend you send him an email if you have any questions after reading the build doc.

Bruce.

Hey PhiloB.

Great job! How do you like the modulation on the JMK tap?  I'm thinking of going this route with a Hamlet Delay board I have.

I really like the JMK modulating taptation.  I've generally been leaving it on just a bit (around 8-o'clock on the dial) to take the edge off the "hi-fi" sound of the delay.  I'd definitely recommend it.  Jacob of JMK was also really great about answering my newbie questions (about leaving off a resistor and pot).

Bruce.