Topics

Hey,

Does anyone know if I can run multiple circuits off one Road Rage board? For instance, can I run a positive ground tonebender mk 2 (-9V road rage output) and a negative ground Big Muff (+9V output) together on one board?

Another option I know if is building the Tonebender Mk2 to run on Negative ground also, but I'm not sure if that's wise or not.

As a secondary question - I'm going to be building a road rage into a rangemaster to supply the rangemaster with positive ground from a negative ground supply. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this?

Jacob

Hey guys.

Built the first of three sunking boards I have. I thought I'd build my own first as a test and I'm glad I did. I used a 7660CPA at first and was getting some crazy noise. Did a quick search and figured out I needed to use a SCPA type instead. Fortunately I had a few spare TC1044SCPA's around... So this and the following boards will feature those instead.

Now what to do with the 7660CPA's...

No gut shots sorry. Think it looks pretty good on the outside, but the guts aren't up to my usual standards. I put in one wire that was too short unfortunately, so making it work made the guts non picture worthy. This one's for me though, so that's cool.



Also, I was playing around with some pedalboard layouts. The Klon and CE-2 clones are featured alongside a couple BYOC pedals that I need to refinish, a Rebote with the PTAP tempo circuit, and a Hartman Fuzz (the bomb).



Jacob

Finished a pair of these today. I think if all I had to do was SHO's, and I had the parts, boards and Finished enclosures available, I could probably bang one of these out finished in less than an hour. If you count the time in ordering parts, finishing enclosures, and designing and having graphics printed and applied, plus the clearcoating... Meh. Too much time!

But give me parts, and I'm a whiz! These fired up first try. Also, there's a pic of an overdrive in there. They're actually a part of a set. I've built the overdrive and booster, and there's also a compressor I'm waiting on boards for. Once they're all done, I'm selling them. 6 pedals, 2 sets of 3, 3 different types. I'm going to sell one set as a complete set (all three pedals), and the other three will go to whoever wants them! Anyway, I finished the two boosters today to add to the two overdrives. Pictured below is one of each. Enjoy.





And the Guts.



Jacob

Hey guys, I try hard to only post my 'madbean' pedals here and this qualifies I think. There's a Ross Comp from Tonepad in there, a very early version of the Silverfox that got posted over at DIY Stompboxes a few Christmas seasons ago, and a brand new Slambox. I was trying to perf a Mosfet booster, but my perfing sucks so...

It's actually a fairly complex pedal. It's the second in a series of four planned 1590DD pedals. The first was the modulation station, featuring a flange, phase and trem set. This one is designed to be first in the signal chain. First up we have a buffered splitter right off the input. It sends the signal two ways, one to a Tuner output that could also be used as a 'dry out' if need be, and also to the first effect, the comp. From the comp we go to the Booster, a simple SHO circuit. From that switch we go through a pair of switching jacks which provide an effects loop. The nice thing about those jacks, even though they're expensive, is that they switch internally, meaning you don't need to plug a patch cable in and out to use the pedal. Last we go to the Barber LTD silver clone overdrive. It's a good creamy low gain drive. I wasn't sure if I'd like it, but I do.



And the Guts.



Part of me would love to be able to somehow redo this because I messed up on the drilling. The holes aren't lined up right, and the labeling for the knob functions are off too. It's for me, and if I ever sell it I'll have to deduct money for that but... ah well.

Next up is the Echo/Delay Station. I plan on having an 800ms+ digital delay with tap tempo and a 600-800ms Analog Delay in it. I'd really, really, REALLY like to see if I can sync the tap tempo to work with both types of delay, but I may only get tap tempo with the PT2399 delay. We'll see what the Blockhead turns out to be I guess...

Jacob

I want one, and i want it with Tap Tempo. I decided this yesterday. I would even sell my BYOC 1 second Analog Delay to built it.

Anyone wanna buy a BYOC Analog Delay? I'll sell it to you at my cost! It's not one of my better finishes. I might refinish it actually, but maybe not.

Jacob

Gonna build me a Muff. I figured out there are 19 parts to change the values of before I get a Ram's Head. I'm curious about the Ram's Head because purportedly it's the Muff Gilmour liked best. Makes me like the idea. But the Mayo is the clone the Mudbunny is actually replicating, and it's a modded Muff isn't it? So what's the difference between a Mayo and a Ram? Is it worth doing the Ram, or should I just stick with the Mayo?

I'm thinking a poll is in order...

Jacob

I built a Pork Barrel. It's pretty great. Shots include my favorite setting so far. Feel free to ask me any questions if you're struggling with one.

Strike a pose.



And the Guts. As noted elsewhere, I've installed the board parts down, so a true gut shot is boring. Instead here are three pics: 1) the pots and switches mounted and wired, Jacks, LED and 3PDT mounted 2) Parts side of the board with the in, out, power and ground wires all ready in, just before I turned it over and started installing the pots and switches on the board 3) My clever arrangement to have the Trim pot available to me even though the parts are down; I was going to install it on the back but actually soldering it in would have been difficult as there's nothing to solder to on the parts side.







Jacob

Hey there everyone. I'm getting clicking when my pork Barrel is in bypass. There's also occasionally a bit of pop when I stomp the switch. I'm thinking I need a resistor on the 3PDT...

I didn't use the Madbean switch layout, I used my usual bypass ala Beavis Audio... Maybe that's it?

Jacob

I got the Rangemaster Tranny from Smallbear, and it came with a note and two resistors, saying it was tested with these values. I intended to build it with some Ohmite Carbon Comps for some mojo, and I don't have the same values. The Smallbear values are 51k and 3.6k, and I have 68k and 3.9k like the project suggests.

I also got some axial caps, but again, I don't have perfect values. I have a 4.7n instead of a 5n (I figure this is fine), and I have some 50uF instead of 47uF (again I imagine this is fine). Just want to double check that this will turn out right. I don't want to solder these in and find that it doesn't sound good, so let me know what you guys think/know about rangemaster part values.

Jacob

Brian, I just noticed this tonight... Any reason in particular? Did you get some flak or just decide not to do it anymore? Must say I'm a bit disappointed cause I wanted to build it.

Jacob

This one is SWEEEE-EAT! I really like the mellow, darkish tone of this thing. It could easily find a place beside my Timmy clone... I relabelled the knob titles to something appropriate to a Bee.



And the Guts.



Jacob

This one came out beautifully! I like the Rawk sound better than the Rock, but it's a pretty raw in both settings. I enjoy how clean the guts came out too, but I forgot to take a pic before closing up the case.



Jacob

One of my favourite builds of the couple dozen I've done so far! Thanks Brian.

I haven't played around with all the diode pairings/settings yet, but I look forward to a long term relationship with this baby! Messed up on finishing if you look closely, but I step on it so... nobigdeal.



And the Guts.



Lots of room in there, but I'd rather the big amount of space so I don't step on the knobs...

Jacob

I just realized that I got JRC4580DD IC's, but the schem calls for 4580D's. I can't really tell the difference from searching, but I was curious if anyone, especially Brian, would think I need to look for 4580D's rather than the DD's.

Jacob