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So there's no chance of pin one of the IC connecting to pad 1, even by accident?

That would potentially give you the symptoms you're experiencing.

It sounds to me like the best course of action would be to swap charge pumps. If you can borrow a TC/Max1044 from another build for a second, that would at least give you verification that it is or isn't the pump. If it has the same symptoms, you know it's something else in the build.

Jacob

Options include:

- Dyna/Ross comp styles using a CA3080 OTA
- Engineer's Thumb styles using a OTA of some sort as well
- Orange Squeezer styles using a Dual Op Amp
- Vactrol/LED-LDR styles often called Opto-compressors
- FET styles (Not sure where to point you...)

Basically, all of them are slightly different, and even within certain types, like Dual Op Amp comps, there can be a lot of variety.

My favourite for a long time has been the Ross type. It's not entirely transparent, but I like that it warms up and breathes life into my tone. Try the Tonepad Ross comp for one you can etch and get going easily.

However, I'm really excited about trying the Engineer's Thumb comp I've been developing a board for. It also uses an OTA, and the breadboarded version I built made me very excited. Watch for a PCB of that one if you'd like to try it.

The afterlife is not a bad way to go. It uses the LED/LDR approach for an optical compressor. Fits in a 1590A if that's your gig.

Jacob

I'd like to know what you mean by 'pin 1 not soldered'

Even if you've installed pin one into a socket, and the socket pin is touching the solder pad, it's bad. Pin 1 of the LT1054 needs to be clipped, or bent back, or the pin from the socket needs to be removed entirely in order for it to work properly.

Jacob

There are many methods, so it depends on what sort of look you are hoping for.

I might suggest ink stamping with white Staz-on ink.

Jacob

Jeff Healey was one of my very favourite odd guitarists. Completely blind, he plays with the guitar laying flat on his lap, and he plays the guitar much like a piano. He lost his eyes to cancer at age one, and lost his life to cancer at age 41. He was from Toronto (same as me), and regularly would play blues jam nights in places all over the GTA. Sorely missed, died waaay too young.

Jacob

Could it be that the electrolytic caps are worn out?
I just wanted to get another opinion before I start replacing the electrolytics. There is like 25 of them......

Also, if I do do that, there are some super low polarized values I havent seen before. Like 0.1 uf electrolytic. Is it alright to use a "normal" film cap here?

Scott, your conclusion is the first thing I thought of. Electrolytics wear weird from all I've come to understand. I'm not a Boss technician, but what you're describing sounds just what amps that need caps replaced sound like.

Yes, you can replace any electrolytic with Film caps. The problem with film caps is that you can't get them in reasonable sizes or prices when you get above 1uF, so that's why we still use electrolytic at values that high. You can also use Tantalum if you find them in the right values.

What I would do is get out the trusty audio probe and follow the signal path while the effect is exhibiting the issue. You will hear where the fizz is introduced. Start replacing caps just before it starts. Or, replace all of them.

Jacob

The taptation boards are not optimized for this purpose, they're set up for delays primarily. However, I'm learning how to apply them to other effects along with Pickdropper to work on another project. The plan on my part is to work out how to produce a small PCB that can be utilized with LFO based effects, particularly things like Phasers, Vibes, and Trems. In theory, one PCB could be applied to an OTA based Phaser, a JFET based Phaser, a Vactrol based Vibe/Trem, or a transistor based Trem. At least, that's what the Taptation datasheet seems to be telling me...

So, in theory, yes this is possible. And because you can simply run the same tap switch in parallel, because all it is is a normally open momentary switch to ground, yes you could have a DIY trem, phaser, and delay on your board synced.

Jacob

Without knowing precisely what your multi meter is, you should set it to the DC Voltage reading, and if it auto selects the range you're good. If it doesn't select the range, you need to set the range to be the best match for what you're reading (i.e 0-10V is a good setting). Touch the black probe to ground, then use the red probe to measure whatever you're trying to get a read on.

Hope that helps.

Jacob

Well... cheaper and easier than buying off the shelf is not a claim of most DIY stuff. Certainly when you calculate the hours spent, shipping and such, than DIY is rarely if ever going to be cheaper and easier.

More satisfying? Yes.

One of the issues is that all the switching loopers I've seen that I'm actually interested in are so expensive that DIYing my own is the only way I'm going to get just what I'm looking for at a price I can afford. That's why I'm trying to get feedback on this system that Molten voltage is producing.

Jacob

Thanks for the great feedback Allen. I've passed that along. Does anyone else have some thoughts?

Jacob

I'm really interested in a MN3008 layout! Would you so a demo of this baby?

I might do a quick iPhone one...

Jacob

That's Rad Paul. First up, Carl Martin stuff is awesome. It's not common, but it's super good quality. Boutique before Boutique was cool.

I wonder what the Delay is based on. It's got stereo out, so that's interesting. Uses a SA571 compander? So perhaps it's a dual PT2399 based design, with tap tempo too? That alone might be worth trying to get more details on.

My bet is that the DPDT switches utilize some sort of millenium bypass or perhaps a modified bypass of some sort. We have to remember that it's not until recently that our 3PDT switches have been as numerous, common and inexpensive. 5 years ago, most people got them from Smallbear for $8 when doing DIY.

Jacob

So I've been really analyzing this stuff, and what it seems to be is that this stuff is essentially plug and play DIY Midi control. This of course got me excited, because I've been looking for a way to replicate what the Musicomlab EFX switcher does but by DIY. I'm not experienced with programming or midi, or even relay bypass, but I know it's a doable thing.

So I emailed the Molten Voltage guys with some questions, and I've gotten some good feedback. Essentially, using the pieces of the Pedal Sync project, you can build a Midi switching system, either for rack or for pedalboard.

- The Relay Control Chips give you true bypass that's controlled by voltage, not by a mechanical switch.
- The 9 Switches Chip gives you midi control of up to 9 Relay based True Bypass loops, plus midi through for controlling the Midi functions of some pedals
- The Master Control Chip gives you control of 128 patches, one at a time, with also the option to pass Tap Tempo information on to your pedals using Midi.

Long story short, this is pretty rad, and it could be pretty useful. It's expensive to get into, but the other products out there are also expensive, so it's not surprising really.

So, long story short, what I'm truly looking for is to gauge some interest in a slightly different Master Control unit. Essentially, my own preferences would be to have several banks of 4 or 5 presets, rather than one preset at a time. However, in order for Molten Voltage to take on creating that product they have to know that it'd be financially viable.

So, how many of you, if given the option, would actively consider building using the Molten Voltage products if a Master Control Chip was developed that gave you banks of presets rather than scrolling up or down one preset at a time?

Jacob

It's in the next batch. I have a bunch of boards that have issues that I may sell for cheap. Requires a wire on the bottom to connect VB...

Jacob

The best fit is either the DBD or Rebote, IMO because you also get modulation with Taptation, whereas this is already present on the Echobase.

Agreed.

I should note that I'm working on a 'how to implement your taptation' document. It'll describe how to include any version of the taptation with many popular Delay PCBs including the Cave Dweller, Rebote 2.5, Echo Base, PT80, and the Delay I'm releasing.

Jacob