Messages

I've had the POG. I was sorry to see it go. I liked it, but wasn't using it, and the Timeline was calling my name.

The main difference between the original POG and the Micro POG I use now was the noise. It's a noisy pedal.

I've always thought it would be lots of fun to play with nothing but 5 or 6 of the big box old style EHX pedals, like the Micro Synth, the POG, that super big Fuzz thing, and the DMM of course...

Jacob

We appreciate your thoughts on this stuff. You're not wrong, it's just that your thoughts are a little outside the box, and sometimes we don't like being pushed that way!

Point is, if you want/need a cap tester there are lots of options. However, you can obviously get by without ever needing a DMM.

jacob

Most of us do use a SPDT instead of a SPST. Essentially, to use the double throw, just ignore one of the outside lugs. Only use the middle and one side lug.

Jacob

[Chunk Chunk]

Just so you're aware, you're probably talking about the Chunk Chunk, just in case it becomes confusing. Likely everyone here knows what you mean, but I wanted to help you out some.

Also, I would say that the three circuits you're talking about are DRASTICALLY different. It's really a big discussion, but to sum it up, all three are so different it's like comparing Apples, Oranges and Bananas.

All three are good though, in their own ways.

Jacob

No, it shouldn't affect the sound. Generally, the indicator LED is a separate circuit from the guitar effect. The only exception to this rule are for effects in which the LED is a flashing indicator, as in a tremolo or delay circuit. In those cases, you need to be a little bit more careful.

However, if you're tying an indicator LED in parallel with the rest of the circuit's power (usually how it is), you can experiment with multiple LEDs. LED's need a certain amount of power to run. Generally, it's lower than 9V, but more than 2V. We use a current limiting resistor (CLR) to lower the voltage crudely, so that the LED doesn't get burnt out by seeing too much power.

When you tie multiple LEDs together in series, there comes a point at which adding more LEDs actually brings the brightness of those LEDS down. It's at that point that I start adding new chains in parallel. You can have as many LEDs in parallel as your power supply can adequately handle (probably hundreds if not thousands). BUT, when they're in series, you have a limit that's set by the combination of the power needs of the LEDs, the voltage you're using, and the CLR.

Jacob

Soldering in ICs is easy, it's removing them that's hard. That's why I recommend sockets.

I just ordered 200 8 pin sockets last week...

Jacob

Awesome! Glad you've joined us, and Scott is a great builder, a good friend to have! You've certainly taken a page out of his book on your finishes. I really like that first one, the Ego Driver. Very "Joseph and the Coat of Many Colours..."

Jacob

I really like the font and aesthetic on this one Corey.

Jacob

What I recommend you do is to fill in all the parts, then pick the mode you want to play through and use jumpers to make it permanent.

Jacob

Edit* Sorry. My first post read a little bit snarky.

Yes, it seems like you have an issue. Without more details I can't really say for sure, but it looks like you need to work the usual debugging steps.

Jacob

It's not that big a deal Matt, we all make mistakes and I'm always a culprit for speaking (typing?) before knowing.

It looks like yours is A for the first half, and then C for the second half to me, so that makes me think you measured it backwards from the way it's show on the graph. Perhaps if you measure in relation to the other lug (if you measured from 1, switch to 3) you'll see what I mean.

Also, throw a BIG knob on the pot while you measure. Then you'll be able to actually make more delicate adjustments. My recommendation is to clip the leads right onto the two lugs you're measuring, and then turn the knob smoothly and watch the meter. The resistance "should" come up quickly, then even out for a while, before finishing out quickly again.

Jacob

I'm confused with what you're asking for. Perhaps you simply need to clarify. The wiring diagram for the switch is in the build documents. As for removing a mode, I'd have to double check the schematic.

Jacob

Yeah, I don't know if you noticed, but the 22vsl and any other Presonus interface comes with the Studio One software. Think about it - for $190 bucks you're getting super awesome software, and a super interface that will do all you want and more.

There are other alternatives though. Do some shopping and see what other products might work as well.

Yes, the Audiobox will work with garageband.

Jacob

Thanks for the response, especially the pickup info. I guess the buffer questions come from this in the PDF:

The 2012 version adds a JFET input buffer, a new Body switch for high-gain/full spectrum boost and a re-tooled output section.

I'm wondering if it's possible to somehow enable a mode where it just uses the input and output buffers but skips the boost circuitry?

Without looking into if it's possible, you wouldn't really want to do that I don't think. If you do want to do something like that, just buy a Boss pedal of some sort. The buffer in that does about the same thing. If you have ANY buffer on your board it'll do the same thing.

In this case, the input jFet buffer is simply a simple gain stage. It's not really doing anything except presenting the "fatpants" circuit with a clean, clear and strong signal.

I'll go back to the orignal questions:

1. Yes, high input impedance, low output impedance.

2. Yes it can handle hot pickups.

3. Instead of wiring a switch that would bypass the circuitry, I'd wire in a switch that replaced the volume knob with a second volume knob. That way you could have 'boosted' and buffered. Rather than setup with a bypass switch, just have one switch that toggled between the two knobs.

I'm not sure what you're expecting out of a buffer, but methinks you don't quite understand the purpose of a buffer or how one uses one.

Jacob

You're right, it would seem that way, but there's no difference between a W and an S taper as far as the actual part is concerned. I've measured the W taper pots, it works like the S would work.

After all, a Linear designation is B, Log is A, and anti-Log is C... None of them look like their tapers...

Jacob