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On behalf of the Noob Contingent, I submit my crude attempt at a wiring diagram for the Harbinger One. I am using a 9V One Spot wall wart power supply, so I have populated the filter PCB and jumpered R54. I have deleted C22 and D1 per the build docs. I based this on the Madbean standard wiring diagrams, minus a battery snap. I'm unclear if it makes any difference which pins on the Chorus/Vibrato and Vintage/Modern switches are wired to the square pads on the PCB. I just showed the pin 1 wires to the SPD1 and SPD2 pads on the PCB to avoid the mess of wiring on the diagram. Please let me know where I screwed up, or better methods to wire this. Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC1.A0.Xdymo+1011&_nkw=dymo+1011&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Here's the Dymo model 1011 tapewriter, made for labeling machinery. Now if i can find an old used one for short money, I'm in bidness. (Honey, I spent $150 for labeling gadget I'll probably use five times in the next  5 years!)

Thanks All, i may just draw some standard parts myself and post them if anyone else wants them.

I found an ancient (Acad R12) set of 2d stompbox pedal symbols and standard enclosure sizes on an old DIY Stompbox forum, anybody know anything more current? I work with Acad 2013, so if anyone can hook me up with a link to some Cad drawings for stompbox layout, much appreciated.

I found a gadget on ebay, the Dymo label maker that will accept metal tape, its an obsolete model, but metal tape replacement stock still available. A bit expensive for occasional pedal labeling. Any other suggestions out there.?

I have an image in my head for my Harbinger One enclosure, very 1950's-60s industrial clunky with jewel amp lights, big toggle switches, and screwed-on metal labels. All the metal stamping die sets I've seen have letters around 1/4" high (too big), and I'd need a press to imprint a box this thick anyway. I've see thin aluminum or stainless stock with embossed lettering on tags for valves or machinery. Anyone know how to find one of these gadgets, or a source for something similar?

Thanks Scruffie, sounds like it's not worth it.

I'm building the Harbinger One for 9V operation with a One Spot wall wart. Since it's 9V, can I use a standard battery snap connection and stereo input jack wired to the 9V power jack? I may never use the battery snap, but nice to have as an option. Would this damage anything in a dying battery scenario?

Its the multimeter, must have had this thing for 20 years, finally gone flaky on me. Can anyone recommend  a good replacement? I don't need anything elaborate, just the occasional pedal build or guitar repair. Ratshack has few simple ones under $50, dont know about the quality. Suggestions.?

I always double check Ohm reading on resistors before soldering them in place. My cheap little Ratshack DMM measures small resisters just fine (220k, 500k, etc.), but I tried to check a 2M2 resistor last night, and the DMM just shows 1.0000, flashing on and off. Is my DMM borked, bad resistor, or is the auto-ranging not working somehow?

Well, that does have a steampunkish appeal, but its bigger than a 1790 enclosure so I think I'll keep looking. Any leads out there?

I'd like to use big old fashioned style toggle switches on my Harbinger build, all I can find with pcb mount lugs are the mini switches. Is there such thing as full size pcb mount switches, and if so, where to get them?

Noob Question:
How important is the tolerance on electrolytic caps? I'm ready to order all the parts from Mouser for my Harbinger One, the 10uf 25v caps are available only in 20% tolerance within the size range, lead spacing, etc. I had found some rated at 10%, but they are back- ordered. Does it really matter?

Thanks Jimilee, another Noob mystery solved!

The Harbinger board has a set of pads for a rate  LED on the board between C24 and C25 , one pad square positive. The build instructions say to jumper it if you don't want the rate led. Would this indicate the presence of a CLR on the board.?