Messages

The standard madbean wiring diagrams show a current limiting resister between PCB and led, is that resistor not already incorporated onto the PCB.? Id like to locate the led towards the center of the box on my Harbinger, not right above the led solder pads.

Ok, I'll shut up, build it as I understand the instructions, and see what happens.

Anybody out there who's built a Harbinger able to clear my head on this one? I've read several build reports from people saying they built 9v versions using One Spot, didn't even use the filter PCB. Am I the only one a little confused by the build docs for a 9v One Spot? Somebody toss me a crumb on this?

Madbean,
Based on the build docs, using a One-Spot 9v power supply, I do the following:
1. Populate filter board with all the parts highlighted in green on the BOM, except R54, which gets jumpered. Any advantage/disadvantage to jumpering this resistor vs. replacing it with a 1N5817 and omitting D1?
2. According to the "Power Options" notes for a One Spot adapter, I omit entirely C22 and D1, no jumpers, just empty slots on the PCB.
3. The One Spot is a 9v adapter, so do I need to install the BOM parts highlighted in blue, or does that not apply in the case of a One Spot power supply? Item 2 above has me deleting C22, which is one of the blue highlighted BOM parts. That's the only part in the instructions that has me a little confused. Any clarification on this greatly appreciated, sorry for my noobish confusion.

Ordered my PCB, can't wait to get started!

Some of the builds have options where components are deleted for mods or different power voltages, etc. When a component is to be deleted off the PCB, do the pads for deleted  components need to be jumpered? Seems they would have to be to complete a signal path, but build docs don't mention it. Is this just assumption only a total noob would pose?

A few more........
Id like to use a one-spot 9v adapter. As I understand the build docs, I will need to populate the filter PCB as shown, but replace R54 with a jumper or IN5817 diode, and omit C22 and D1. Will the deleted  C22 and D1 be left as empty spots on the PCB , or get jumpered?

Thanks for the help, ordering PCB tonight.

On another note, I assume the volume and intensity pots are linear taper, not audio taper? Excuse my noobish ignorance. I think that's what I used on the Forumvibe.

Madbean
Thanks for the response. I have to buy a few of the components from Smallbear anyway, I'll see if they have them available.

Found this Fairchild data sheet on line, looks like the J201 comes in two configurations, is the TO-92 version the correct component?
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/MM/MMBFJ201.pdf

The Harbinger One BOM lists Q14 transistor as "J201", can't get a coherent hit on on that keyword in Mouser. Tried searching within Fairchild Semiconductors, got a "JFET N-Channel Transistor General Purpose" Mouser #512-MMBFJ201", but it doesn't look anything like the component symbol on the PCB, which looks like a standard cylindrical transistor with one flat side. Can anybody help me out on this one?

Bit of a noob question: Is the IC on the harbinger one board intended to be socketed, no mention of it in the build shopping list, is it just soldered to the PCB?

I was thinking of going for an old school look, big jewel glass amp style indicator lights, maybe big funky toggle switches. Is that likely to work in the 1590 enclosure recommended? Enough depth in the box for deeper switches?

I'd like to use glass "jewel" bulb covers over LED stomp status lights, like old amp lights. I've seen them for sale on e-bay, anybody know a good source? I think they come with bulb holders for incandescent bulbs, how would you modify for LED's? I was thinking i could just leave out the bulb holder and just let the wire leads from the LED down to PCB provide enough rigidity to hold the LED in place below the jewel glass cover. Suggestions?

Has anyone drawn up a wiring diagram for the noob contingent? Stomp and jack wiring layout and connections to PCB?  I've built a few BYOC  pedals, so I'm used to the idiot proof instructions. I built the Forumvibe successfully, but had a lot of trouble with the offboard power supply. I have an 18v wall wart powering it, rather build the 9v  version so I can use onespot. The forumvibe also lacks a flashing rate LED. Anyone built the forumvibe and harbinger? How do they compare?