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I was using a 1/2 watt'r

The current version of the Sunking 2 schematic shows that 10R resistor as 1/2W.  Were you using a 1/4W resistor?

Awesome! Yea man sorry i didn't get back to you, it got a little crazy at work this week. Stoked you got the board back up and running. Sounds like you did the same thing I did 

Jumpered R32 problem solved. Voltages all look good. Not sure what the issue is/was. Sounds good now 

Thanks for the tip man! I'm gonna give the battery test a shot tonight when I get home! 

I was gonna test some large value electos (2200uf) on the cap setting of my dmm but it doesn't seem to want to work. I checked their resistance and the new and old one are reading all over the place. If the caps are reading like a couple hundered k to a couple mega ohms that means they are bad right? I'm having trouble getting a good ohm reading on the ones I'm replacing as well as the new ones.  Anyone know of a good way to test larger value electrolytics?

My DMM's cap setting never worked. Everything on it works except for the frequency counter and the caps. I don't know why either.

There are a couple of things you can do to check to see if the cap is working. You can charge the cap with a battery and then measure the voltage across it. It should charge up and store the voltage and then slowly discharge it through the meter. You can even charge the cap with the DMM by putting it resistance mode and connecting the meter across the cap. Then turn the meter to volts and read the voltage. Although, this method is slower than just doing it with a battery.

If you wanted to do some math, you could discharge the cap and then hook it up in a circuit with a resistor and measure the time it takes for the voltage to rise to a set value. Here's a link to the example circuit an a calculator to do the math, http://ladyada.net/library/rccalc.html.

Its a decent ex tech I got for work. I think it was like 120 new. Can't remeber the model number as it's at home today.

What multimeter are you using, I think that will determine if you can test them or not.


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Anything over 100uf freaks out my cap setting on my dmm. I'll do some more reading and see what I come up with. Thanks homie!

If your meter has a capacitor setting use that..
Caps are strange creatures... It's worth taking some time and researching them on the net.

Dan

Oh no! I feel your pain brother!  I socketed r32 and put a jumper in there to take voltages. Once I got my voltages stariaghtedned out I ended up replacing ic3 and d3. I was then able to put r32 back in without it burning up. Double check (and most likely replace) d3, but I'm pretty sure that's what was burning up r32 on my board. Let me know how it goes.

Just fired up my buffered bypass Sunking II and it also set the 10R ablaze! I'll try the jumper.

Problem solved!! So I went ahead and boxed one up thinking I'll if I want to turn down to volume all the way it means I want the pedal off, so I will just end up switching it off. Basically submitting to the fact that it was a totally livable problem, especially since i was pretty much just gonna play at high gain levels anyways. So I boxed it up  and voila! Problem solved. The signal is totally killed when you roll the volume pot down all the way. I'm not sure if it has something to do with connecting the pots to the enclosure ground or something with the buffer. I still need to figure that part out. I was just stoked it works!!

No offense taken hombre! Didn't fully realize that's what  the build was. Also never built any verb or delay effects before, so that's good to know! Thanks dude!

Not to offend anyone but I think you want to stay away from the Millenium bypass stuff. It is a great option for other builds but you loose the tails if you use it. In some effects not having TB is a benefit. This build would benefit from the tails option IMO.


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I was gonna test some large value electos (2200uf) on the cap setting of my dmm but it doesn't seem to want to work. I checked their resistance and the new and old one are reading all over the place. If the caps are reading like a couple hundered k to a couple mega ohms that means they are bad right? I'm having trouble getting a good ohm reading on the ones I'm replacing as well as the new ones.  Anyone know of a good way to test larger value electrolytics?

Yea when the volume pot is all the way down the gain knob and tone knob have no effect on the signal and it's a lot quiter than the bypass signal. Well the bypassed signal from the jmk testing rig. I haven't boxed one of the these boards up yet since I was still unsure if I did something wrong. And when I have it hooked up to my testing rig I'm bypassing the switching. I just built another one to see what what would happen and it's doing the same thing.  Everything else works fine. I'm starting to think that maybe I am not doing anything wrong?? I built one for my buddy and he loves it. That's what I'm comparing it to. I don't remeber if the volume pot completely killed the signal? Maybe I never even checked? I haven't got to talk to him yet to ask him about the volume pot, but I'm thinking that maybe it does the same thing and I didn't realize it. I mean I guess you would never realize it unless for some reason you wanted the pedal off but didn't want to hit the switch? Not sure why you would do that? I am just mainly concerned about a grounding issue. Unless I'm completely off and it's not suppose to do that at all. I'm gonna check out the schem tomorrow per your suggestion.

Anyone built one that can check out the volume pot for me?

I really appreciate you still offering your help!!

My only problem now is that whenever I turn down the volume pot all the way there is still a little bit of signal. It definitely lowers the volume to a point, but for some reason it's not all going to ground. I've checked my grounds on pin 1 and ever resoldersd the pot. I checked all the surrounding components too.

That might just be typical of the buffered version of this circuit.  Check out the top of the schematic where the post-buffer, pre-gain signal runs through C18 and R27...and notice how it connects directly to the output jack through R21 regardless of the bypass switch position.  How loud is it (compared to bypassed signal)?  Does it react to the Gain knob setting?  Again, I've never built this board, so hopefully someone who has will chime in.

Thanks for the tip amigo! Luckily I figured out the oscillating problem. My only problem now is that whenever I turn down the volume pot all the way there is still a little bit of signal. It definitely lowers the volume to a point, but for some reason it's not all going to ground. I've checked my grounds on pin 1 and ever resoldersd the pot. I checked all the surrounding components too.

I'll def keep an eye out for bad part batches. However I make sure to test every component before I put it in the circuit. Only thing is my ddm can't seem to get a good read on is high value electrolytics.

I've got a build (different circuit) that's oscillating too.  I've narrowed it down to a few components but haven't yet dialed it in.

One thing that you might want to check into is the possibility of a mis-marked bag of parts.  Might be worth reordering some for your remaining pcb and see what happens. 

There have been times when I've caught myself almost returning parts into the wrong bag.

Thats what I was going to suggest.

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/01/millennium-bypass-2.html

Millenium II works well, true bypass and led switching with a DPDT switch.

http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/millenium/millen.htm

I have one more board left. I am going to try and recreate the build I did that worked, and hopefully that will help me figure out my problem with volume pot. If not then I am just going to keep ordering boards and troubleshooting till i get it! I feel I need a fresh start at this point. I've been staring at these boards every night trying to figure it out. I am sure I am way overthinking it and overlooking the obvious. So hopefully this starting over will give me a fresh new insight. Everyone else's volume control completely cuts off signal right?

I think I figured out my gain knob problem! I ditched the super long test leads and hooked up a toggle straight to the wires. Voila no more weird noises! So far so good. now i just have to figure out my grounding issue with the volume knob!

PS
I know you dudes are busy with your own builds, but "talking" this out and responding to my own posts has actually been extremely helpful, almost therapeutic! I keep havering to re read when I spell check my posts. It makes me double check everything I am doing to troubleshoot. I highly recommend forum published internal dialog!

So the oscillating gain thing only happens when I have I the fat mod hooked up. Meaning I'm running alligator clips to a switch. When I remove it from the circuit (pull the clips). I can roll the gain knob all the way down without it doing that oscillation octave thing. Volume knob still won't completely kill the volume. I'm baffled. I searched the forum and didn't find anyother threads with this problem, so I just need to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm starting loose it boys 

So the oscillating gain thing only happens when I have I the fat mod hooked up. Meaning I'm running alligator clips to a switch. When I remove it from the circuit (pull the clips). I can roll the gain knob all the way down without it doing that oscillation octave thing. Volume knob still won't completely kill the volume. I'm baffled. I searched the forum and didn't find anyother threads with this problem, so I just need to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm starting loose it boys