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Was wondering if these two boards are compatible, Do I need to make any connections from the ZP PCB to the 3PDT PCB or can I just wire the LED to ONLY the ZP PCB? I noticed this version doesn't have an L pad or is that the same thing as ground?

Finishing up this zero point mini build and just wondering which pad on the rate led indicator is the negative, I'm used to seeing the square pad as the positive lead on capacitors but the LED symbol has the flat side of the LED lining up with the round thru hole???

Having a little trouble tracking down these transformers. On mouser there are two listed, 42TM022 which is out of stock, and the 42TM022-RC, is this okay to use or should I keep searching? Smallbear seems to be out of stock as well.

I've had my Mudbunny (Civil War specs, 2014 version) up and running for a few weeks now and really been enjoying it up until yesterday when I noticed it just wasn't sounding quite right. I opened it up and noticed R24 was completely fried. Before I go ahead and replace the 100R resistor I was hoping to understand why this happened. I know one of the updates to this project was the change on D5 from 1n4001 to 1n5817. Should I make that replacement on D5 as well even though I have the 2014 pcb? Any insight is appreciated.

Looks like I forget to order the 56n caps for this board, Looking at the schematic I'm imagining C6 and C8 have some relevant tone shaping character, the closest values I have are 47n and 68n, will either of these work and what kind of impact will this have on the tone?

Thanks!

So I'm in the midst of wiring up the Slow Loris, I noticed there are 2 pads for Ground wires, does it matter which of these gets wired to the 3pdt? Thusly can I ground the remaining wire to one of the jack sleeves?

So, in my infinite wisdom I laid out this project as such:

I failed to realize that I wouldn't have enough clearance to get the lid on with the height of the toggle switch where it is. Do you guys know of any low profile on/on switches that would work so I don't have to drill a new hole and reroute the toggle switch? I'd love to not have to scrap this enclosure.

I'm working on trying to test my Rangemaster build with the road rage. I'm fairly certain I have everything connected properly but let me know if I missed anything. I have the +/- pads connected to a separate DC jack (since my test box is already wired with a DC jack), -9v/G is connected to the Rangemaster -9v/G. My test box is your standard IN/OUT/PWR/GND (same as the sticky thread test box). Do I connect ground from my test box to ground on the Road Rage, and if so is it the pad next to +9v? As of right now I'm not getting any voltages on the Rangemaster board.

I just started testing my rangemaster build using the road rage and I'm getting less than perfect results. Just to make sure I have things connected properly, I have a DC jack running to the +/- pads of the road rage, -9v/G connected to -9v/G on the rangemaster. When I hook it up to my tester, I get a faint signal and some response from turning the pot but nowhere near the volume I should be hearing for a boost. Did I miss something here? The road rage doc seemed pretty straight forward.

So the pasty face is the first germanium build I've undertaken and I just wanted to make sure I've got everything correct before I install the transistors and test the circuit. I ordered the PNP "continental" package from smallbear I believe. They sent me 3 Ge transistors, 2 Mullard OC77 and an OC71. Each transistor was labeled with leakage current and what I assume is an hfe measurement. It was sent with a colour sound schematic which differs a bit from the soulbender version I've been working on. The OC77's are labeled as Q2 and Q3 and the OC71 as Q1. How should I install these according to the Soulbender version? Is it ok to install them as labeled or do I need to switch them around to fit the soulbender version?

Just finished populating the pcb, installed the OC44 (socketed) and hooked it up to my test rig. Getting the faintest signal when the pot is dimed and a weird clicking/thumping sound that keeps repeating over and over. What in the world could that be on a circuit this simple? I touched up all my solder joints just to make sure, but the problem remains. I removed the transistor as well and it was still making the sound. Would a backwards electrolytic cause that sound?

So I was populating the capacitors and I noticed for C9 it lists a 1uf cap but on the board it looks like a film cap should go there. Can I use an electrolytic cap for this, and if so how should I orient it?

edit- C11 appears to be the same as well.

So I picked the smoothie as my first 1590a build, and I just finished populating the board and realized I didn't use any low profile electrolytic caps in there. Is that an absolute must for getting the lid to fit on properly? I won't have time to wire this up for another week or so but i figured now would be a good time to backtrack and order those if need be.

Thanks!

been trying to find these at the usual suspect purveyors to no avail. really want to do a rusted finish.

For the 'your choice' diodes, what are good ones to test? i'm going to socket it anyway so fire away. i've heard good things abot the bat41.

Here's an interesting topic I stumbled upon while I was at work the other day. I work at a bar which (go figure) employs a few underachieving musicians such as myself and I got into a conversation with a buddy about how the craft brewing explosion of the past few years (in the US anyway) is starting to show some signs of saturation as there are quite a few breweries out there that really lack character, flavor, style etc. yet command the craft prices. This got me thinking about the "boutique" pedal market and the various companies that I keep stumbling across. When do you think the commercial pedal building world is going to hit a wall? Will it? Conventional capitalist wisdom would suggest it must, but do you think we're in the midst of seeing these niche industries (craft brewing, pedal building, etc) become more diversified as opposed to over-saturated?

Also, I have a bottle opener screwed to the leg of my workbench.

Recently acquired a powder coating system, still getting my bearings with the process so I haven't done an enclosure just yet. This made me wonder, when it comes to clear coating over water slides or other labeling how does powder coat clear compare to those clear high gloss epoxy jobs with envirotex. Durability, scratching, etc?

So a friend has tasked me to build a boost with eq. He's currently using the Electroharmonix Nano LPB-1 and is unhappy with the abundance of low-end. So I did some poking around and found a layout from general guitar gadgets- http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pro ... graphic-eq

First question, has anyone build this with the 5 band eq and gain knob? If so, would that gain knob act as a boost? My fear is that the gain knob would distort too heavily which is not what i'm looking for. More of a clean boost that you can EQ.
My other thought, is it better to have these two effects as separate entities as two different pedals? There's so many great boost projects out there just wondering what angle to attack this build with.

Thanks! any and all feedback is appreciated.