Messages

Finally getting around to putting together a Klone - I've got a Sunking printed out on PnP Blue, ready to etch, but was some issue with that one?
i.e. does the Klon Siberia have any 'fixes', or is the 2010 one good to go?

Thanks
- Buck

That's what I'm guessing - taking out R10/C9/tone pot, and (in the example shown) going out of pin 2, into the AMZ/BMP tonestack, then connect the end of the tonestack at pin 1.

Looking at the Boneyard schem:



In the tone section, is the 22K (R10) resistor part of the tone control, or is that something else?
I'm looking at replacing the tone control with the AMZ Presence control (for Big Muffs). Just curious what parts/sections I'll need to replace in the stock Boneyard circuit.

Thx
- Buck

Yep, saw that one last night.

Thanks to Govmnt_Lacky for the Micro Flanger docs! I'm going to start that after I get everything done & off of my workbench. (too many circuits in 'build' phase and need to get finished)

I actually PREFER etchable - please!!!
I'm interested. 

Just wondering if there's any possibility for an MXR Micro Flanger via Madbean (i.e. a Mini Collosalus). Strip it down to just Rate & Depth.
I'm almost done with my 2015 Collosalus, but wouldn't mind something smaller with a similar sound & less controls on top.

Thanks!

Hey,
If I want to omit the filter toggle on the 2015 Current Lover, which pads would I need to jumper in order to use just the flanger mode?

Thanks,
- Buck

How are we looking for some stuff to etch? I'm doing a small batch this week, but would love some newer options.
No rush/pressure, just an inquiry.

Considering building the now-discontinued Dig Dug and noticed the 2nd footswitch. I just wanted an on/off option, nothing else - do I leave those pads jumpered or open for the standard setting?

Thanks,
- Buck

Looking at putting together a Dig Dug and was looking at the original/discontinued PDF file.

(I may have asked this before)
In the wiring diagram, what is the 2nd footswitch for? It looks like it acts as a SPST/on-off, but not sure what it does.

Thanks,

I'm thinking of putting one of my Road Rages (9V+ to 15V+) in a standalone enclosure; basically two power jacks, one 9V (in), the other 15V (out).

When connecting the power cables, I get that the outer portions would go to the positive voltage on each connection, but what about the center (-)? Since that typically goes to ground, can these two center negatives connect even though the postives are different voltages?

thanks,
Buck

So I have a Meatball clone and the MB Sharkfin both on my bench, in 'build' status.
I was thinking about doing a Dig Dug, but would that be a little redundant, with sample/hold side of the Fin? (i.e. the automated step thing)

Excellent! I'm glad it worked. That had to be a ton of work to get the whole thing reverse engineered and the PCB designed. Congrats!

Yeah, I traced it all out in Adobe Illustrator (CS6), scaled it to size, printed out on PNP blue, blah-blah-blah.
Next one I'm working on is the Ibanez Classic Flange FL99.

Thanks again - the 1M pulldown resistor worked like a charm. Switching is dead silent.