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Be careful not to adjust the pickups too high or the strings won't properly interact with the magnetic field and the tone will suffer.

I'd look into a magnet swap, myself.

I've had my MusicomLab EFX MKIII for a while and it works great. I tried to use it to change channels on my amp, but it seems to have the polarity reversed on the function jacks that can be used to switch channels. When the switcher is not engaged, my lead channel is on and I want it the other way, so it switches to lead channel when I activate a pedal loop. Anyone know how to fix this?
If not, can I wire up an adapter to reverse the tip/sleeve configuration?

I'm not quite sure what to make of that picture.   

My gut tells me that no matter what you try, you will mar the finish somehow.  If you are lucky, the finish will merely lose its luster and can be fixed.  If you are unlucky, you could end up with a red-sock-in-the-laundry type of color bleed.  You really need to know what the finish and pin stripes are each made from.

My advice:  first ask yourself what you would do if you accidentally ruin the finish.

Yeah, I really don't like these pinstripes. They don't make any sense.

I have the same concerns. I don't want to smear it around.
If I did ruin the finish, I would probably just take sandpaper to it and give it a vicious relic style paint removal.

I'm considering removing some hand pinstriping from a guitar, but I don't want to damage the finish. I was thinking of just taking some lacquer thinner to it, but was wondering if anyone has tried this on a guitar finish or has any advice? I know this can work quite well on a car finish, but the clear coat on a car is probably much more durable than the clear on a guitar.
Any input is appreciated.

I did something similar with three fuzzes in one box.
I used a 3p4t switch and each had their own set of LEDs

all the "inputs" one one pole
all the "outputs" on another pole
different colour LED on the other pole

you can get different types of rotary for make-before-break or break-before-make which may or may not have different levels of pop
I dont recall my pedal having huge pop. I included a master true bypass with another indicator LED, too.
There was also another booster on another bypass footswitch on the way out, just to complicate further.
I used a strip of vero for a power bus (9v, ground, and if I recall CLR)

You appear to have used the rotary to switch where the +power is directed.
I am going to use it to switch where the ground is directed.

I am trying to minimize power consumption.

I'll try it and see what happens. I think it will work.

Yes, I will have a footswitch to activate the pedal, but the rotary will select which boost and led comes on. I'll attach the switch ground from my footswitch to one of the poles of the 3p4t, and have it connect the ground of the selected boost and led to turn it on. I'll just daisy chain all the + power pads together, back to the power jack.

I'm working on a multi-build, a box with 4 different boosts. I want to use a rotary switch to select which boost is active. I also want to give each effect its own LED. I was planning to use a 3p4t to accomplish this, with a pole for input, output, and ground. My question is: Can I use the same ground to activate the effect and LED at the same time? Would this cause any unwanted popping or other ill side effects? If so, can I just use the LED+ pad on the PCB and connect the LED- to the ground pad of the PCB? My thinking is this will activate one boost and one led simultaneously. I'm hoping to have only one effect on at a time, instead of having all 4 on all the time and simply switching which ins/outs and led is active.

Forget taking pictures of the aftermath, can you take pictures of it happening.

I'm sorry for your loss, but that sounds legitimately awesome. Someday you'll look back on this and say "that was sooooo coool" like your inner child knows you would have done if it had been anyone else's build.

It was pretty awesome, actually. It happened so quick and was so surprising that it took a moment to figure out what happened. The air spray just shredded the decal and sent it airborne. It was still falling on me when I realized I ruined it. LOL It literally blew up in my face.

I almost always used that option from Mouser, but haven't had a problem. I guess I've been lucky so far.

During my usual waterslide decal/envirotex application process, I made a mistake I felt I'd share so none of you stumble upon it like I did.

After my decal had dried and I cut out the holes, I had small bits of decal debris on the surface. I was looking around my desk for something to clean it off, and spotted my canned air that I use to clean out my keyboard. I gave my enclosure a spray of air, which penetrated between the decal and enclosure, making my decal explode off the enclosure into tiny bits like a confetti bomb. I was shocked for a moment before the anger kicked in, realizing I had to start completely over with the process. I apologize for not taking pics of the aftermath, but I was so pissed I got right to stripping the remnants off and starting over.

Avoid the canned air in this situation, gents!

Cheers!

I just ordered all of the parts for a 50w plexi. Im at $500 in quality parts. This is excluding a cabinet, so that price seems very fair. The wiring could be cleaned up a bit, but it looks like a solid build. People are saying they wouldn't pay that price are expecting the builder to essentially make it for free, and give a discount on parts. Make an amp for $600, sell it for less? Not happening.

Interesting. I was wondering how much it would cost if I just sourced all the parts myself. The markup on kits is kind of ridiculous. Did you find a kit, or source it all yourself?

Thanks for the input everyone. To steer the thread back on track, right now I'm asking for thoughts on this clone. There's already plenty of jcm800 debate and commentary on the webz for me ro read.

that depends ... if the amp is noisy then yeah, that wiring is a problem.
listen, I don't care to debate this issue of wire routing because some people really are into 90 degree bends and perfection and I'm not going to win them over no matter what I say. I will say that I've built similar amps with similar wiring and had no trouble and I've had little fender champs give me grief if everything wasn't perfect AND shielded. that is something the builder should have sussed out before offering it for sale and you should be able to discern on test drive.

Basically, that was my point of view also. If it doesn't make noise or oscillation, I really don't care about the wiring, to an extent.

Is the wiring on it really that big of a deal? I've been seeing a lot of JCM800 gut shots that have similar looking wiring.

Every Sovtek Mig 50 I see has an asking price of around $600, and the JCM800s, especially the 2204, are asking over $1000. Where are you guys seeing these for such low prices? If they were that low, I wouldn't even be considering this clone.